Looking for some local help

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Hello everyone.I've been silver brazing a lot the past few years with MAPP gas and finally decided to get a small oxy/acetylene set up. I picked up a Meco Midget torch. I got my tanks and everything. Now I'm just being a little scared to light it up. I've hooked it all up, checked for leaks a few times. So I'm looking for anyone interested in just helping me get over this hurdle. We just moved here a few months ago from IL and don't really know anyone yet. I'm also not working right now so I have the time. I'm in Gaithersburg Maryland. I've checked for classes and everything is to far for me. So anyone in my area willing to help me out? Please! I can come to your shop or you can come to my place doesn't matter. I think I just need to get past this initial spark. I've made a couple Radio control car chassis out of steel tubing and various other parts for my trucks. you can see them on my blog with links to the rccrawler forum where I posted the full build process.  The black truck is 90% all steel, body panels and all. http://littletrees13.wordpress.com/about-2/Really thanks for any help and I'm glad I've joined the forum!!!BradOh yeah, just in case it matters. I'm 41 and I did run a geotechnical lab. We dealt with a lot of high pressure testing equipment. So I think I'm just being overly cautious about safety, which I should.
Reply:Hello and welcome.Hopefully one of the members here in your area will chime in and offer to help you out. We have a great bunch of guys here..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Brad, I'm several hours from you so I can't help you in the manner you request.  But do you mind telling us exactly what you're worried about happening when you light the torch?  Here are some steps you can follow and notes along the way, just in case you decide to light up on your own.1. Start with both tank valves and both torch valves 'off'.  The torch valves should shut off with minimal force.  Don't horse on them, or you'll deform the seats and will always have to horse on them in the future.1a. Open your garage door if you aren't outside.  Remove ignition sources in the immediate area. (example -- torpedo heater running 4 feet away)2. Have your regulator t-handles backed out until they flop around a little in the threads (are completely off of the diaphragm that they bear against in operation).  It's not possible to back them out too far, so don't worry about that.  If they come off in your hand, screw them back in a couple threads and you're good.3. Standing to the side so the gauges and regulator screw aren't 'aimed' at you, slowly open the oxygen valve's cylinder.  When the high-pressure gauge needle starts moving, stop opening the valve and let the needle move slowly up to full tank pressure.  Then go ahead and open the valve all the way, until it stops unscrewing.  This is because high-pressure tank valves seal in the fully-open and fully-shut locations.  4. Standing to the side again, slowly open the acetylene cylinder valve and wait for the high-side gauge to register full pressure.  Since this is a fuel cylinder, it's low pressure and shouldn't be opened fully.  One turn open is more than enough for the necessary flow.  In the event of an emergency, you want to be able to shut this valve off quickly.5. Check your low-pressure-side gauges on both regulators.  Neither should be registering any pressure.  If they are, you either don't have the adjusting t-handles backed out far enough, or you have bad diaphragms.   Fix whatever is necessary to get your low pressure side showing 'zero.'  Now you know your diaphragms are good.6. Open the acetylene valve on the torch.  One turn is probably enough.  No gas should flow, because the regulator isn't allowing that yet.  Leave the valve open.7. Start screwing the acetylene cylinder's t-handle in.  Slow down when you hear gas start flowing.  Continue screwing the t-handle in until you reach the correct pressure.  If you're gas welding, probably in the 3-5 psi neighborhood.  As you're making the adjustment, tap on the back of the low-pressure gauge with your knuckles to be sure the needle is registering correctly and not sticking.8. When you've got the correct acetylene pressure, shut the acetylene torch valve off.  9. Now open the torch's oxygen valve a turn or so, and verify that no gas is flowing.  Leave the valve open.10. In the same way you set the acetylene pressure, set the oxygen pressure by screwing in the regulator's t-handle until you've got the proper pressure.  Don't forget to tap on the back of the gauge to be sure the needle isn't sticking.11. Shut the torch's oxygen valve off.12. At this point, you want to double-check that all flammable stuff is long gone from your work area, that your torch hose, extension cords, etc aren't going to be anywhere near the flame,  your work is set up and ready, etc.13. Put your welding gloves, goggles, and any other protective gear on.14. Crack the torch's acetylene valve a half-turn or so and light it with your striker.  You'll have a sooty flame.  15. Crack the oxygen valve and continue opening it until you have a greenish-bluish small triangle of "inner cone" flame right at the torch tip.  This is a neutral flame.  You can find many, many pictures of this online and probably on youtube videos.16. If you want more heat, you can open the torch's acetylene valve a little more.  You'll see the inner cone of flame extend outwards when you do this.  Now open the oxygen valve a little more to bring the flame back to neutral.17. Do your oxy-acetylene welding thing.18. When you're done, shut off the torch's oxygen valve.  Remember, don't horse on it.  You should now have a sooty, less-energetic orange flame like you did at the very beginning.  If there is any hint of greenish-blue, you either don't have your torch's oxygen valve shut off fully, or you have a leak at your torch's oxygen valve and need to get that fixed.19. Now shut off the torch's fuel valve.  Flame should go out.  20. Shut off both tank valves in whichever order.  Shut them off tightly.  21. It won't hurt anything to back off the t-handles at this point.  The previously-adjusted low pressures will still register since the torch valves are shut and maintaining a pressure in the system.  Some of us leave our t-handles adjusted all the time without ever backing them off.  However, manufacturers recommend against this and it's probably smartest to do things their way.  NOTE:  You definitely want to back off your t-handles before you light off anytime there's a chance someone (like a kid) might have messed with them.   Acetylene becomes unstable and explosive at pressures above 15 psi.  Modern acetylene regulators should have an internal mechanism that prevents them from going beyond 15 psi, but you don't want to trust in that.  Because the t-handle increases pressure as it's being screwed in, it would be easy for an unknowledgeable person to screw it in all the way, thinking they're helping you by shutting off the tank. If I've missed anything here, please feel free to add it in.Last edited by tbone550; 12-16-2013 at 11:54 AM.
Reply:tbone550 and well everyone!Thanks for the responses. tbone550 I'm not sure what I'm afraid of really. I think I've just over thought it all. I really like your write up. It's pretty much everything I've been going over and over and over. I know once I do light it, it'll be like, oh that's nothing. Again I've watched nearly every video, read every tutorial and instructions a dozen times. Though I'm 41 the little boy in me comes out (I was a very cautious kid) and I get a little nervous. But once I do something a couple times I'm good. I will be printing this off for sure. Thank you so much for the reply!
Reply:I'm in Newark, De, but would only have time on weekends. Is your shop heated? Mine isn't, and it's a wee bit chilly outside right now.Edit: on edit, you aren't as close as I thought. Last edited by DetailerDave; 12-16-2013 at 12:43 PM.
Reply:If it helps, set your pressure on the oxy  to 10, and the acet to 5 with the valve open. Put a #5 tip in to start. Prime both lines before you crack, and only crack the acet valve and light it up. Then crack the acet valve look for the blue flame. There are 3 components to the fire, the bright blue cone, light blue feather, and the outer flame. Open the oxygen slightly to decrease the feather, and adjust the acetylene if the cone gets too short.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Stop by the local welding supply place and inquire there also-Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:I'm in Northern Baltimore County, my shop is outside of Owings Mills.  Not sure how much help I can be as I have an Oxy-Propane setup, and don't do brazing at all.  But wanted to let you know where I am either way.Lincoln Weldanpower AC/DCLincoln LN-25Miller WC-115a Miller Spoolmatic 30aCheck out my youtube TV Channel
Reply:Thanks for the comments. I may end up going to the local welding supply place, the guys there seem pretty nice. Owings Mills is a bit over an hour away and probably longer if I dodge the toll roads. But it's an option and I do appreciate it. I'm not in a hurry or anything. It is suppose to be in the 50's by this week end. My garage has a heater but I'd probably be more comfortable if I could open the doors and not freeze. Like I said I've pretty much gone threw every procedure besides actually lighting the gas. I guess it's like following a new ASTM test at my last job. Do some practice trial runs, get the feel for all parts and steps. Doing the steps is a lot different than just reading and watching. We'd check the equipment multiple times for any problems. I've had some weird stuff happen with one particular test that uses a a lot of pressure. I just didn't wan to be alone for the first trial. I'm starting to calm down a little about it. Like I said it kind of surprised me that I got this far and just felt I need to take my time, wait for it to feel right. I tend to do that. If I was in Illinois still I could easily find someone to help out a bit.But really thanks to everyone! I've been browsing around here and this forum is going to be pretty handy. And the members seem really great.
Reply:UPDATE:Well I got my torch lite. Now I have some new questions. I really need some one familiar with the Meco Midget and its tips. I have all the tis Tinman sell: 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. I've mainly messed with the #0. So I'm curious if anyone has an idea of how big the neutral flame cone should be for the #00. The sooty flame is easily apparent so far. Also I tried the #1 and I think I had mixed gases (should of purged, I know. I swapped it out after messing with the O and didn't think of purging the line) and got a little pop when trying to light it. So I stopped. Anyone have a rough est. for pressures too. I think if I had an Idea of how big my cones should be for each size would help. I'm still looking for anyone who may be local who could help me out but it's cold here and I ain't gonna worry to much right now.Thanks for all you knowledge!!!!Last edited by Littletrees13; 01-24-2014 at 10:10 AM.