problems with the cap

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i'm having trouble keeping the weld profile down with my "starts" on my cap pass.  this is in the 6g positionive tried making a "O" with my puddle to get the bead to tie in, but then i end up with too much build-up.  if i don't make the "O", the bead seems to start out cold and wont tie-in well.i'm using 3/32 7018 around 87-90 amps.any suggestions?
Reply:Strike the arc about 1 to 1 1/2-inches in front of the previous welds stop, and ease back to the stop, pause until you get the proper fill then take off. Run over the chicken scratch and arc mark you just created.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Sometime to have more heat I strike the arc like CEP said and then back off, let fall the first drop of metal to the ground, then bring back the rod into the weld.
Reply:i do exactly what CEP said and then pause for a split second when i tie back into the previous weldAaron Olsonmiller dynasty 200dx
Reply:CEP knows whats up.  Tie-ins are something that are really focused on (at least not at my school).  I mean they teach it on every type of weld (mig, tig, stick) but they dont really enforce how to do it, but CEP describes it perfectly.Read my welding blog:http://weldeveryday.wordpress.com/
Reply:Like CEP says.  Done correctly, you will not even be able to tell where the tie-in was made.  Also as said, make your arc strike so you will run back over it.  You do not want pecker tracks left on your tube (Boilermaker equivalent of pipe).  Most times that is an automatic failure on a test and a reject on the job."The man of great wealth owes a peculiar obligation to the State, because he derives special advantages from the mere existence of government."  Teddy RooseveltAmerican by birth, Union by choice!  Boilermakers # 60America is a Union.