Stainless tig

admin

I am slowly building a BBQ grill out of all stainless.  I am learning as I go about welding it.   Here is the frame.  I started on the top with 1 X 1 X 1/8" angle and sheets of 1/8" 304.I have tried a lot of ways to weld it.  This seems to work out.  About 70 amps, no filler used except at the start.  I kept a piece in my hand but didn't need it.  3/32 tungsten gas lenz #8.  Arcmaster 185   48" weld.  You can see it warped a little. More in a few.DavidLast edited by David R; 11-23-2011 at 06:08 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:These are ash drawers.  The grill is going to burn lump charcoal only.  I made 2 drawers out of the 1/8 " sheet.   4.5 tall by 8 1/4 wide 22" deep.  The first one I sliced the plate leaving 1/2" on each end for a hinge.  I then bent it and welded it.  This did not work out so well, so I made the second one out of 3 pieces.  It came out MUCH better.  These are untouched welds.   The same as above, 3/32 tungsten, no filler unless needed about 70 amps.  #8 gas lenz, WP 20 torchFitup was pretty good.  It makes all the difference.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Looks good..See how proper fit up works everyone?No filler!Nice job Dave....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:If you cant weld your stainless fitups autogeniously your fitup sucks.      I have a saying around my shop when it comes to fitting up stainless.   " Theres only two fitups allowed.    perfect, and almost not perfect"Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Dave,If you got some scrap aluminum angle, you can try to clamp it to the backside of your edge welds. It will help control heat and keep ''suguaring'' down on the backside alittle.Ya gotta spend money to make money!
Reply:Nice welding.....most likely that will crack. Sorry to be that way but as the center of the weld puddle cools faster than the edges it will pull....without a thicker middle (lack of filler) that is now the weakest part of the weldment. The fiitup was great, and I am not trying to downplay your weld, but filler is your friend when welding joints of that type. Not alot but filler is just that filler. With the perfect fitup and heat you should just be able to hold the rod in one place and not move it to fill the puddle.......still a very nice weld, a project I will look forward to looking at some more pictures. That will be an awesome unit when competed.Last edited by Awelderiam; 11-24-2011 at 11:46 AM.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:Originally Posted by welderShaneDave,If you got some scrap aluminum angle, you can try to clamp it to the backside of your edge welds. It will help control heat and keep ''suguaring'' down on the backside alittle.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RI have been meaning to try it.     I have tried a LOT of things.   The 48" weld in the first post is the one the public is going to see when the business is cooking the hot dogs.  I was going for a true tig look and more important than that, consistency.   If the customer likes the grill they may want a few more.  Each location has 2,  with 7 locations.As far as it cracking, I don't think so.   Zap did a thing on stainless perhaps he will find it for me.         Carbon steel needs the deoxidizers in the rod, stainless does not.  Different animals.I will be the first to admit, not enough shielding for these welds.  Tomorrow I am trying a #17 torch with a gas lenz and #12 cup.    I have a #18 torch and cooler on order.Looking at ALL the welds I have done on this, the ones with out filler done at the coolest temp came out closest to food grade.   I tried some mig with tri mix.  So far terrible luck.  Yesterday when locking up, I found leaks in the hose from the regulator to my mig machine.Edit, I think all the welds above were done with out filler except the initial square frame.
Reply:I agree with most of what you are saying.First, its only a fire box and grill.   All 1/8" stainless which is overkill.As soon as I start using filler, I end up using a LOT more heat which I am trying to avoid so these sheets don't warp.  What I loose in strength I gain in inches or feet of weld.These parts do not need to be full welded.  In places I used some of the edge piece to add filler to the puddle.The #17 air cooled torch with a gas lenz and #12 cup did no better than a WP20 torch and no gas lenz with a #12 cup.  Still not getting the shielding I want.      DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:No filler no strength.That is how i was taught JMO.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RI agree with most of what you are saying.First, its only a fire box and grill.   All 1/8" stainless which is overkill.As soon as I start using filler, I end up using a LOT more heat which I am trying to avoid so these sheets don't warp.  What I loose in strength I gain in inches or feet of weld.These parts do not need to be full welded.  In places I used some of the edge piece to add filler to the puddle.The #17 air cooled torch with a gas lenz and #12 cup did no better than a WP20 torch and no gas lenz with a #12 cup.  Still not getting the shielding I want.      David
Reply:Originally Posted by admsweldingNo filler no strength.That is how i was taught JMO.
Reply:David,I see you're "coming around".Didn't understand your previous comment about having more "heat control" using mig vs tig.  Done properly, tig wins hands down.You may want to try playing around with some of your scrap SS.Take some .035 SS mig wire and straighten it.Use a "lay wire technique".  (Place the wire in the grove and run a quick bead.  Keep the wire in the leading edge of the puddle (no dipping).Also, high speed pulsing can help to control the average heat put into the weld.Just a couple tips you may want to try when bored.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by fire1hawkThen you were taught wrong. You will have a stronger weld without it if you are not purging the opposite side. It will penetrate better.
Reply:I kno this is a cooker and as usual on a forum these deals drag out....but hey if I can learn something then kewl.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIAlso, high speed pulsing can help to control the average heat put into the weld.
Reply:I have to agree with Awelderiam.  As a sr. mech eng I specified a SS weld on some food grade parts in a high speed automated processing machine. I noted on the drawings that all welds were to be back purged were to use filler material and that each welder was to submit coupons for bend tests and impact tests.  All went well until the machine was actually created and put together.  The welds on some of the actuators were fusion welded and failed some 3 weeks into the runoff of the machine.  The repair was in the 5 figure range and my boss nearly fired me on the spot.  Subsequent testing of sample fusion welds showed they would fail very quickly.  This also matched my prediction based on my earlier FEA structrual analysis.  Interesting that Awelderiam used the same note regarding reduction in area I did.  Fortunately I had done my home work years before in another similar job and personal experience as a welder myself, I had good documentation to CMA.   Believe me it was not fun standing before management explaining what happened, why, and what the repair was going to cost. In this case with continuous heating and cooling I suspect there will be cracks in the future.  You can probably repair them quite easily especially as you will be more experienced at that time.  I don't want to be overly critical but I just want to pass on real experience and some of the issues of welding SS.  You could add filler and make your nice welds even nicer as well as more structrual.  Back purging  will get rid of the "sugaring".  I have a double regulator on my TIG welder as well as a good stock of SS rods.  The cost of this stuff is part of the game.By the way, nice cooker.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIDavid,Also, high speed pulsing can help to control the average heat put into the weld.Just a couple tips you may want to try when bored.