Tips on 7018 root pass

admin

Wasnt sure what section to post this in so if its in the wrong area feel free to move it. Ok so Ive been welding for about 5 years now and Ive NEVER had to run a 7018 stringer but Im going to test for a company on monday requires it. The test is a 2" heavy wall on 6g with 7018 stringer fill and cap and its x rayed not bend tested. I was just hoping you guys could give me some tips from your experiences. I will be using my 07 lincoln 200D if thats of any help.
Reply:1/8 - 5/32 gap with a dime landing. Reverse polarity seems to help as well. Stay in your 1st gear and fine tune should be a round 60 or 70. Run your rod tight with a small weave making sure to tie in to each bevel. Don't get out ahead of your puddle, stay in it. Grind your tacks feathered and eveytime you stop grind your stops to ensure tie ins
Reply:My first question is will the company allow the use of the E7016? Lincoln calls it the16P+, we require this test as well. But on 2" and 8" sch 80 6G, bend test only. We use this process on all cyclic and sour gas services. The best way that I have taught this process is to go colder and slower. Alot of the pipeliners like to try and run this hot and tight....this type process will react like stainless and shrink the gap while you weld. If you have to run the E7018 the tighter gap will help out but I prefere a little wider than a dime land. Never...never.....never key hole. If you keyhole you are putting way to much bead inside. The electrode angle should be at about 90 deg from bottom to top. You might have some trouble with the 200D......those units run hot (to me anyhow) I would start on 135-90 and at about 35-40 to start with......if you can barly carry an arc on flat iron thats a good starting spot. Dont worry about being fast be clean. If you cant see the puddle but can hear the arc inside the coupon life is good keep it right there. To fight the shrinkage weld the coupon in quarters alternating from top to bottom opposite side. Practice....practice....practice...... Each welder will have their own way....try them all and find the one that fits you.........I also used the thin cutoff type disc to feather my tacks and not grind away my land near the tacks.....this will keep the stringer bead uniform and smooth..........works for me. If you can use the E7016 then a wider gap 5/32"-3/16" and a full 1/8 land, temp is around the same to start with, this rod welds so much better. Anyhow, thats my method. It has worked for me for 23+ years.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:Do you have a rod oven or heater?DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:No 7016 allowed a lot of people have told me to go with a tight gap and they'll be providing the rods out of the oven
Reply:Good luck.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:Well I ended up going with a tight gap and ran a little hotter it came out pretty decent for being my first 7018 stringer I passed and start tomorrow but in a way I was kinda hoping I'd bust so I could take the rest of the month off and catch up on some things I've put off all year but can't complain I guess especially in this economy. Thanks for the help fellas