SS Exhaust pipe weld settings?

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Happy holidays weldingWeb'ers,  I've been trying to weld some stainless steel exhaust pipe (ebay brand) with 316L rod, but I think something is wrong with my settings, technique, or torch setup because all my welds look like crap :? .  Can you guys please critique my weld with tips on how to make them better?   Prep: Stainless Steel Brush on surfaces w/ acetone + paper towel cleaning.Tungsten: 2% lanthanated (3/32 size), sharpened to a pointAmps: 40 (also tried pulsed @ 40/20)Gas: 100% ArgonTorch: Air cooled EverlastTorch Flow: ~7-8 L/min Back Purge: ~2.2 L/min through the pipeTungsten protruding distance from #7 EverLast cup = 4.32 mmLast edited by TheMeatHead; 12-25-2011 at 05:05 PM.
Reply:Fist off I use 1/16 tungsten for exhaust. Second, 35 amps is what I usually run. I will try to find a pic of the last  ss exhaust I welded.Also I use .035 filler, anything bigger is gonna look like crap. Attached Images
Reply:Looks like you have either a gas problem (check for leaks, verify you have gas leaving the torch) or your on the wrong polarity (is DC+ instead of -) IMO. That looks beyond oxygen contamination from too much heat.
Reply:Thanks for your input guys!  How do you guys have your pipe setup when back-purge welding stainless steel pipe like this?  (Do you rest your arms on the table?  How is your ground clamp implemented?)  Lastly, are there any cups better than the Everlast #7 ones you recommend for this SS pipe tig welding? Here is my "from da hood" back-purging setup that I measured with the flow meter to make sure flow was accurate:
Reply:Do you have 2 seperate regulators for purge and shield gas ?  Try 1/16 electrode and weld very slowly - wait on the puddle and dont be in any hury - easy to get to hot on SS.  You shouldnt be getting all that black sooty crap arround the edges.  Try turnig gas up or try a gas lense with a big cup.  What does your tungsten look like after you run a bead and get that soot ?   Is the tungsten crapped up dirty ?If yes- you must be getting air to it somehow.......      You could gas weld it if you needed to you know !   - but I know you want to get the Tig working.Timps  I notice when I use solvents with papertowels - I get white pigment leaching out of the towel in the solvent that wipes out across the metal surface.  use a lint free indsudtrial paper wipes like chemwipes.  -if you want to be anal-cleanLast edited by jethro; 12-26-2011 at 03:19 AM.
Reply:to make it short, you can't weld . it's not a rant it's the truth.now some observations, 1. tungsten too big, (some can use 3/32 even with lower amps but it's more difficult to control the puddle)2. 40A is too low for 2mm wall , try 55-60 with a 1/16 filler, some will weld at lesser amperage but offcourse they only want rainbow/straw looking welds that take forever to make.3 the black sht you have all over the weld is mostly done by overheating(slow travel speed) , torch angle and tungsten distance from weld pool, a bigger cup will help but won't do miracles4 If this is a hobby project , wire brush it and mount it on the car, it's good enough, If you take money for it go to a welding course--------------------------------------------------------------www.becmotors.nlyup, I quit welding.. joined welder anonymous
Reply:looks to me like to much heat (amps) and horrible cleaning of the base material i don't see any pictures of the IDMiller Xmt 350Lincoln Ln-25Ahp 200xSmith Gas Mixer AR/HTig is my Kung FuThrowing down dimes and weaving aboutInstagram http://instagram.com/[email protected]
Reply:Hey, Meathead. well, you need more practice, but that's yesterdays news.You're clearly getting some kind of **** contaminating your welds. Was that black sooty stuff there before you welded it?(i doubt it) Going too slow may cause droopy, over-oxidized welds,but it certainly isn't going to cause a black, sooty, sticky buildup. Looks like you were cutting it with an oxy-fuel torch not TIG welding...Use an angle grinder with a sanding disc, don't settle for wire brushing by hand.Why are there fingerprints on there? Do you have grease and oil,or anti-spatter compound on your gloves? Buy some dedicated gloves for doing TIG work, maybe.Try using a clean cloth rag, not a paper towel. Maybe your paper towels have got something in 'em. It might be there's some kind of protective enamel and the acetone simply isn't cutting it.- the contamination may be INSIDE the tube where you're not cleaning it. Give the inside a good scrubbing too.Try getting a length of tube from a different supplier.Those gas tubes you're using look like water hoses, not tubes designed specifically for welding gases. Where did you get them? Water tubes often have compounds called plasticizers, as well as release lubricants on them. If the hoses have a detectable smell, maybe you should think twice, that's offgassing. Go to a welding supply store and get some bona-fide welding gas tubing.Hope this helps some.Last edited by Joshfromsaltlake; 12-26-2011 at 05:44 AM.
Reply:Maybe I missed it, but what kind of stainless is that? 409?Can you set up a lap-joint and see if that goes any better for you?IW Local 580 NY, NY
Reply:Rest your welding hand on the work, the travel needs to be smooth, if adding filler try to keep the  end of the filler in the argon envelope as it will tarnish and then add the tarnish to the puddle contaminating the weld.I have only made a few exhaust systems, most of my work was purged dairy tubing .0625 wall (works good for exhaust systems) and I welded them without filler and 100% penetration and never had a failure of any kind.I think you may be moving the torch around too much and disrupting the argon flow and causing a lot of the contamination.Cut some coupons and practice on getting your travel smooth and the heat correct, and if using filler keep it in contact with the base metal or at least in the argon envelope while its hot.Tigging is not hard to do but does take a lot of practice to get proficient at it.Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!!Last edited by popspipes; 12-26-2011 at 10:47 AM.mike sr
Reply:Hey Guys,  I only have the standard single regulator and flow meter that came with the EverLast PowerTig 225LX machine.  The T-Fitting you see is after the flowmeter.  I used aluminum tape on the pipe inlet with small hole for the argon-purge tube, then on the outlet I use aluminum tape with a small slit for the argon to exit.  But, my grounding clamp does not fit around 2-inch pipe .  So when you're backpurging stainless steel pipe like this, how do you mount your grounding clamps?I've seen in a video where some guys stick a rag in the pipe inlet that can fit the argon-purge tube and grounding clamp, is this how most of you do it too?In the meantime, I'm trying your suggestions!
Reply:I'm new to all this but I don't see how you know you're getting the flow you need to your torch with the purge line T'd in between the flow meter and your torch? I always thought the purge line needed its own regulator/flowmeter.Safety 3rdGump
Reply:Originally Posted by TheMeatHeadHey Guys,  I only have the standard single regulator and flow meter that came with the EverLast PowerTig 225LX machine.  The T-Fitting you see is after the flowmeter.  I used aluminum tape on the pipe inlet with small hole for the argon-purge tube, then on the outlet I use aluminum tape with a small slit for the argon to exit.  But, my grounding clamp does not fit around 2-inch pipe .  So when you're backpurging stainless steel pipe like this, how do you mount your grounding clamps?I've seen in a video where some guys stick a rag in the pipe inlet that can fit the argon-purge tube and grounding clamp, is this how most of you do it too?In the meantime, I'm trying your suggestions!
Reply:I have a few more pics for you, these are homemade purge plugs of various materials.The regulator setup is a single regulator with two Smith flowmeters, one to the torch, one to the purge line.The plugs shown in a 2" x .0625 wall stainless tube ready to weld.The purge plugs are homemade from arma -flex insulation and aluminum foil.mike sr
Reply:Several problems.The first problem that you have is that the filler wire is too large in diameter.If the tube is .060The grey color weld is from too much heat.The filler wire needs to be .045 but most welding stores do not carry that small diameter filler wire in stainless.You have to order it and wait for it.almost all the stores only sell 1/16 filler wire in stainless. Only good for pipe welding. Not thin tubing.I know because I welded thin stainless tubing for 11 years on a daily basis. .049 tubing and .060 tubing.Use a 3/32 tungsten and set the WELDING MACHINE amperage on about 150.With the foot pedal you will only be using about 1/3 or less. About 35 amps.But if the welding machine is set at 35 amps you would have to push the pedal all the way down when you start. No good.You need a range you can get more or get less while you are welding.Make sure you tack the tubes together before fully welding.And they must be clean-no oil.Forget about pulsing . You already have enough going on.You would use pulsing on a tube in a rotating welding positioner.Also two more secrets.Use a gas lens on your torch and use a welding glass magnifier at least 1.50It does not matter how young you are. You want good welds right?Last edited by Donald Branscom; 12-26-2011 at 11:58 PM.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:a couple more pics.I used approximately 48 amps dc on 2" x .0625 tube purged.purge about 5 cfh, no pressure in the tube just flow thru it. (cigarette lighter test as Showdog said)approximately 10 to 15 cfh on the torch #7 cup.3/32 tungsten, I used it because of durability, .040 would handle the current fine as well.In later years I used the gas lense exclusively (better gas coverage)I never worried much about the color, as penetration was the prime concern, if it could be cleaned up with a ss brush when warm it was usually a good weld.There are exceptions to everything, the key is a lot of practice.A good bench welder is one thing, it is entirely different when on a lift, in a tight corner close to a wall hanging with an arm or leg left handed etcI am glad to see that you want to learn and are seeking advice and willing to listen, thats half the battle, keep it up.If i missed something just ask, I do have a few miles on me and my mind isnt as sharp as I would like it to be ha!mike sr
Reply:[quote=popspipes;591556] Shortened.It is not a pipe. It is a tube.That is a very important distinction.A Tube is measured by the O.D. It is usually within |+ or- .002 of the measurement listed.A Pipe is measure by the INSIDE diameter and can be .025 larger or smaller than what is listed on the inside.The outside is as thick as the "schedule" given.Last edited by Donald Branscom; 12-27-2011 at 12:14 AM.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:Originally Posted by TheMeatHeadHappy holidays weldingWeb'ers,  I've been trying to weld some stainless steel exhaust pipe (ebay brand) with 316L rod, but I think something is wrong with my settings, technique, or torch setup because all my welds look like crap :? .  Can you guys please critique my weld with tips on how to make them better?   Prep: Stainless Steel Brush on surfaces w/ acetone + paper towel cleaning.Tungsten: 2% lanthanated (3/32 size), sharpened to a pointAmps: 40 (also tried pulsed @ 40/20)Gas: 100% ArgonTorch: Air cooled EverlastTorch Flow: ~7-8 L/min Back Purge: ~2.2 L/min through the pipeTungsten protruding distance from #7 EverLast cup = 4.32 mm
Reply:Originally Posted by TheMeatHead  But, my grounding clamp does not fit around 2-inch pipe .  So when you're backpurging stainless steel pipe like this, how do you mount your grounding clamps?I've seen in a video where some guys stick a rag in the pipe inlet that can fit the argon-purge tube and grounding clamp, is this how most of you do it too?
Reply:Originally Posted by TheMeatHeadHappy holidays weldingWeb'ers,  I've been trying to weld some stainless steel exhaust pipe (ebay brand) with 316L rod, but I think something is wrong with my settings, technique, or torch setup because all my welds look like crap :? .  Can you guys please critique my weld with tips on how to make them better?   Prep: Stainless Steel Brush on surfaces w/ acetone + paper towel cleaning.Tungsten: 2% lanthanated (3/32 size), sharpened to a pointAmps: 40 (also tried pulsed @ 40/20)Gas: 100% ArgonTorch: Air cooled EverlastTorch Flow: ~7-8 L/min Back Purge: ~2.2 L/min through the pipeTungsten protruding distance from #7 EverLast cup = 4.32 mm
Reply:Originally Posted by Donald BranscomIt would be better to say 316L FILLER wire and give us the thickness you are using.Then the view knows you are TIG welding.
Reply:Another thing I do is use ss mig wire inserted into a piece of 1/16" copper tube about 18" long, really works nice on the small filler wire, takes out the curl.I use it mainly on .023 steel wire for thin gage steel parts now.I usually attached the ground to the table or to the rigid pipe vise that I used for portable work.I used a pair of modified vice grip pliers to ground to the tube if needed.Last edited by popspipes; 12-27-2011 at 12:51 AM.mike sr
Reply:Correct me if I'm wrong,but can't he use Solar flux on the inside of that and eliminate the purge?It's an exhaust, not inlet tube, so any debris that falls off the inside isn't gonna break anything?No?TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88If you're going to be a pain-in-the-*** and get all technical, you may as well get it correct.  By saying "rod" he is technically correct, as TIG filler material is spec'ed ER (electrode rod)  Simply saying "filler wire" could refer to MIG/TIG or Stick, as they all use a filler wire of some sort.I could also point out that 1/16" rod is perfectly acceptable, as I use it on a regular basis.  But I wont bother, because you've done this every day for 11 years.
Reply:Where are you located Meathead?  If your close to Chattanooga, TN I would be willing to help you out.stainless likes to be welded fast, get in start your puddle and get out, too much heat and you get gray brittle welds. Use a big gas cup/gas lens. Your gas coverage has to be enough to not only cover your weld but also the HAZ and the end of your electrode-(not critical but important) Too high of a gas flow will cause turbulence around your weld and pull outside air into the shielded area which will make you think you dont have enough shielding- it can get confusing, more is not always better.Set your machine so you are at the proper amperage with your pedal about half way down (If you want 50 amps set your machine to 100 and use the pedal) If you set your machine to 50 you will take forever to get the puddle started and just give the weld more time to react with any oxygen
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255Correct me if I'm wrong,but can't he use Solar flux on the inside of that and eliminate the purge?It's an exhaust, not inlet tube, so any debris that falls off the inside isn't gonna break anything?No?
Reply:For backpurge, calculate the volume your going to need and how long it will take to flow and then pre-flow 6x that.   Argon is heavier than air so you will want a controlled leak on the high side of the pipe (at least before you get going) to let the air out.  I usually purge at 15-20 cfh and then turn it down to 5cfh while welding (maybe 10 depending on how good I feel the dam is).308L is the more common filler for 304 stainless.  I don't know how 316 will look.  For "16 gauge' stainless tubing, I normally have the machine set for 42 Amps and run the pedal about 80%.  I run it pretty fast, no pulsing, just a slight pause.  I special ordered .035 filler.  You didn't say what material you are running but 304 is the cheapest, non-magnetic stainless and probably the best for exhaust pipe (but marginal for headers).  I assume you have 304.With a proper purge, you have a bit more flexibility on how much heat the material will take before it turns gray.  I found my coloration vastly improved with a good purge.From your pictures, one issue you will run into is that the tubing will get too hot and the glue on tapes will get way too soft.  Aluminum tape (what is used in the USA on ducting) works two way.  One it sticks, but as the glue melts, the shape still hangs on.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:I think the point all posters are missing is the fact that the OP has never learned to TIG WELD.Where are the coupons showing he's learned puddle control, torch movement, rod feeding, etc, etc.What we have here is the typical newcomer who thinks all he needs to do is go out and buy a tig welder and he's instantly a "tig welder".Anyone who thinks his gas setup is "adequate" for purging hasn't done much SS work.  Flowing gas thru an unrestricted hose is not an acceptable solution.  Absolutely no way to gauge his flow to the part or the torch.  Not only is the OP trying to do a somewhat complex fabrication, he's trying to do it with no experience and ON THE CHEAP.  A dual flowmeter, a dual setup as another poster showed, or two separate regulator/flowmeters is the only real way to set up a proper purge.  Any other BS (like the OP posted) are just pissing in the wind.  Given the OP's setup, he'd be better off going with Solar Flux B.The OP is obviously "cooking his welds" by overheating them and burning off the chromium in the base metal and filler.  Those beads will be no more "rust resistant" than if they'd been done with mild steel.It's one thing to give a poster "pointers" to advance their basic knowledge, but trying to teach someone the basics of tig on a message board just isn't going to work.  Just in this one thread, there's been as much BS advice put out as there has been good advice.Going back and reading the OP's previous posts, he's tried aluminum (unsuccessfully) before he moved to SS.  Nowhere in any of his posts have I seen where he has put in the necessary "hood time" to be taking on a somewhat complex SS task.Questions like how do I hold my work in place and how do I attach my work lead show me that the OP has not put forth the effort to understand the task at hand.I don't think anyone's ever "learned to tig weld" by asking questions on a message board.  You need to study the processes, watch as many video's as possible (something that just wasn't available a few years ago) and spending as much time as necessary in developing the motor skills necessary for tig welding.I'd just like to ask the OP one question.  How many bottles/cu. ft. of argon have you used in developing your tig proficiency?Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RDon't take me too seriously     ER70S-6  Is Electrode ROLL 70S-6Tig filler is E70S-6    Look it upDavidEdit, I just went to ESAB and Lincoln and they list tig wire as ER..........Up for debate in another thread.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIII think the point all posters are missing is the fact that the OP has never learned to TIG WELDI don't think anyone's ever "learned to tig weld" by asking questions on a message board.  You need to study the processes, watch as many video's as possible (something that just wasn't available a few years ago) and spending as much time as necessary in developing the motor skills necessary for tig welding.
Reply:Drf,I put you in the same category as the OP.Let's see.  Three different tig machines in less than 7 mos.  Still looking for that "silver bullet" to make up for your lack of experience in the tig process.You are a prime example of a poster who makes it difficult for a new guy to improve a particular aspect of his tig welding.  You lack experience yourself so you simply repeat things you've read on a message board, not knowing if they're right or wrong.  How much Solar Flux B have you used in the last 7 mos?  What is your "first hand" experience with setting up a SS purge?Tig welding, as with all welding processes, is a "building block process".  If you don't understand/master the basics, you'll never be good at the process no matter how much guidance you get.  The problem with just "asking questions" on a message board is that you get as much BS advice (from guys like you with little to no experience) who just feel the need to interject their little tidbit that they "heard".  In this thread alone, the OP got as much bad advice as he got good advice.  How's a newbie to know the difference?In the OP's photos I see a total lack of puddle control (heat), timing, filler feeding, etc, etc.  Until the OP masters the BASICS, he doesn't need to move on to SS and backgassing, etc.There's no way to "SPOON FEED" a beginner what he needs to know about tig welding.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIDrf,I put you in the same category as the OP.Let's see.  Three different tig machines in less than 7 mos.  Still looking for that "silver bullet" to make up for your lack of experience in the tig process.
Reply:Drf,I don't post a lot of photos of my "work" because I don't see where that would help anyone at all.  There are thousands of photos of great work on the boards, but what does that accomplish other than showing another good/great weld.Maybe you should be more concerned about what I do put up (explanations) rather than being so concerned with what I don't post.  If you, or anyone else has a problem with the guidance I do provide, then I would more than welcome your comments.  If you think I give "bad advice" then challenge it.I have nothing "to prove" to any member on this board.  I am not looking for any customers on this board.  I don't advertise locally.  Don't have to.  My work is all over the local area.  My shop is open to anyone who needs work done and I'm more than happy to demonstrate/show them what I can do.There are a lot of good posters/welders who do post up photos of their work.  If that's what they wish to do, that's great.  I'm not one who chooses to do that.  Much of the work I've done over the last several years is "repair".  Don't think many of my customers would be too happy about me showing off their mistakes.  In fact, the objective is complete a repair so  that no one even knows something ever happened.In the case of this thread, you and the OP are a lot alike.  You want someone to tell you how to drive a car into the third turn at Daytona at 180 MPH, but haven't gotten your learner's permit yet.  I've been tig welding for more years than you've been on this planet, and frankly, I don't know where to begin to help the OP.  Until he gets the basics down, all he's doing is ruining a bunch of SS.In this thread alone the OP has gotten the whole gambit of "advice".  One poster says he's running too hot.  Another poster says crank the amps up and move faster.  One says his filler is too big.  Another says it's just fine.  The list just goes on and on.Yes, there are several things I could "recommend" to the OP with regard to amps, tungsten size, cup, gas lens, pulsing, etc, etc. but until he learns to read the puddle, consistently add filler, and move the puddle, it won't help a bit.  Without having the basics down pat, moving to a fabrication such as this is fruitless.  The added complexity of a circumference weld with a constantly changing torch angle to work will be near impossible.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Drf255,SDIII is not wrong in his post. TheMeatHead didn't qualify himself/skills so there is a lot of unkowns about him. Alot of the new guy come on here and want to learn how to tig and the first type of projects they want to tackle are exhaust/manifolds. They seem unwilling to set some practice time (100hrs) just to master the basics. This welding forum should be just one of the places someone can use as reference and should be willing to look and learn outside of this forum. There is one poster here (turbocad6) that wanted to build his own ss manifolds and was all gung-ho when first starting out. If you find his post, his manifolds took more then a year in the making but he finally built them and he still has a way to go to master ss.I found this forum 6-7 years ago and in researching it helped me decide to change careers. Went through the local CC welding program and had 3 yrs out in the field before I truley started to contribute  to this forum.SDIII maybe a little old and a little cranky and even if he was doing this from an armchair his info is correct. It just gets old when the new kid want the answers that will take him across the finish line but not want to do the work inbetween.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIDrf,I don't post a lot of photos of my "work" because I don't see where that would help anyone at all.  There are thousands of photos of great work on the boards, but what does that accomplish other than showing another good/great weld.Maybe you should be more concerned about what I do put up (explanations) rather than being so concerned with what I don't post.  If you, or anyone else has a problem with the guidance I do provide, then I would more than welcome your comments.  If you think I give "bad advice" then challenge it.I have nothing "to prove" to any member on this board.  I am not looking for any customers on this board.  I don't advertise locally.  Don't have to.  My work is all over the local area.  My shop is open to anyone who needs work done and I'm more than happy to demonstrate/show them what I can do.There are a lot of good posters/welders who do post up photos of their work.  If that's what they wish to do, that's great.  I'm not one who chooses to do that.  Much of the work I've done over the last several years is "repair".  Don't think many of my customers would be too happy about me showing off their mistakes.  In fact, the objective is complete a repair so  that no one even knows something ever happened.In the case of this thread, you and the OP are a lot alike.  You want someone to tell you how to drive a car into the third turn at Daytona at 180 MPH, but haven't gotten your learner's permit yet.  I've been tig welding for more years than you've been on this planet, and frankly, I don't know where to begin to help the OP.  Until he gets the basics down, all he's doing is ruining a bunch of SS.In this thread alone the OP has gotten the whole gambit of "advice".  One poster says he's running too hot.  Another poster says crank the amps up and move faster.  One says his filler is too big.  Another says it's just fine.  The list just goes on and on.Yes, there are several things I could "recommend" to the OP with regard to amps, tungsten size, cup, gas lens, pulsing, etc, etc. but until he learns to read the puddle, consistently add filler, and move the puddle, it won't help a bit.  Without having the basics down pat, moving to a fabrication such as this is fruitless.  The added complexity of a circumference weld with a constantly changing torch angle to work will be near impossible.
Reply:Hey Drf,Why you getting so pushed out of place because of a bit of criticism. The problem 95% of the newbies to TIG have is because they think they can simply buy a TIG welder, get a bottle of gas & some tungstens, & start putting together a project blindly & think they can get those sought-after "stack-o-dimes". No experience, no practice, want to do SS or alum. to start, which is the totally opposite procedure to begin to learn, & then they come to the forums & ask why they're having so many issues.  Duuuuuuhhhhhh!Their is a sound, proven, flawless solution that works EVERY TIME....... START WITH CLEAN, BARE STEEL!!!!!!!  NOT SS OR ALUM.  Learn the basic steps & joint configurations FIRST!!!!! You will get NOWHERE till you have a minimum of 200-400 hrs PRACTICE on reg. steel. It's the ONLY way to learn the proper "techniques" of TIG & the fluid consistency needed to achieve GOOD TIG WELDS that are aesthetically pleasing. WTF is the problem starting from STEP 1 to get to STEP 2 ???..........>>>>>. SDIII provided an honest evaluation & his opinion & sure read to be a sound response as far as I could see.  Sure been quite a few whiny, crying, waa-waa's here lately who aren't going to find mama's nipple to pacify them. ALL newbies/beginners/hobby-farts gotta start to UNDERSTAND WHAT IS INVOLVED!!!!!!  That's why there are vo-tech & college classes to provide the data/practice to learn the fundamentals. If you're not going to invest the time to learn by practice, starting with SIMPLE welds/techniques, & doing some homework to get a grasp on the myriad applications of TIG, the end result will simply be another garage "HACK" with results as posted........"Garbage in.....Garbage out"............  And, I really don't give a rats' a$$ whether any of you like it or not. The only person you have to satisfy is YOU..............YOU choose your own LEVEL of satisfaction.DennyComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:Originally Posted by yorkiepapHey Drf,Why you getting so pushed out of place because of a bit of criticism.
Reply:SundownIII  Senior MemberJoin DateMar 2007LocationDeltaville, VAPosts2,069 Millermatic 210 vs Millermatic 251Looking for advice/recommendations from individuals who have used both machines.I have gone over the specs in great detail and think I understand the higher duty cycle, ability to use larger spools, etc. I particularly like the fact that the 251 comes equipped with the digital meters.What I'm looking for are comments from people who have actually used both machines. In my business we have a saying that "there's no substitute for local knowledge".Power supply is not an issue. Have 200A, single phase available in the shop.Currently am using a Syncrowave 250 w/cooler (1996 Vintage), a Hobart 187 Mig (Great little machine), an older Linde AC buzzbox, and Harris O/A.Any comments/discussion would be appreciated.SundownIII
Reply:Burns Stainless had a very good series of articles about exhaust system work in their monthly newsletter.Here's a link to their newsletter archive...the exhaust articles start in June '09.http://www.burnsstainless.com/Newsle...erarchive.htmlRex
Reply:Ya gotta practice to be good - in anything.  When I first got my tig machine, I went down to the junk yard a number of times and bought cutoff scraps, took them home and just laid down beads - the first ones were of course, junk, but they got better....- "If ya can't be handsome, ya may as well be handy!"   HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln SP125+Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38
Reply:from what I've seen only practice will make you better. People will tell you how to weld one way but that may not work for the newbie. I remember when I first started tig welding and a past student told me I wasn't holding the torch right....why does that matter?....in the end, my welds looked better and were stronger than his so he didn't say anything after that. IMO if you are welding exhausts you don't need complete penetration. I've noticed that when I weld stainless pipe the more penetration I get the nastier grey it looks. Also, the hotter the material gets the more it turns grey which is what I think your problem is. the pipe i welded here is .056" i kept the heat low (about 50A)  and moved at a slightly quicker pace than mild steel. stainless is "watery" so it can get out of control very easily. practice practice practice. Try more flat positions before you try welding pipe. I've seen welding instructors that weren't even that great at welding so don't feel bad. sorry kinda a bad picture but you can see the color isn't grey or nasty which is what you want. The pipe is for a turbo kit. It runs about 45 lbs of boost through it and holds just fine. (for a diesel turbo kit to be exact thats why the boost pressure is so high) Attached ImagesMiller Dynasty 200Millermatic 211Instagram?.... find me @ WELD_MEDIC
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255The guy's trying to learn.  Knocking the guy for asking questions is just not right.
Reply:There is a reason I don't comment in posts like this anymore.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapster There is a reason I don't comment in posts like this anymore.....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverSo what's the reason you just did?
Reply:Originally Posted by TheMeatHeadHey Guys,  I only have the standard single regulator and flow meter that came with the EverLast PowerTig 225LX machine.  The T-Fitting you see is after the flowmeter.  I used aluminum tape on the pipe inlet with small hole for the argon-purge tube, then on the outlet I use aluminum tape with a small slit for the argon to exit.  But, my grounding clamp does not fit around 2-inch pipe .  So when you're back purging stainless steel pipe like this, how do you mount your grounding clamps?I've seen in a video where some guys stick a rag in the pipe inlet that can fit the argon-purge tube and grounding clamp, is this how most of you do it too?In the meantime, I'm trying your suggestions!