First attempt at stick welding.

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I know why they call it "stick" welding.  Lol.  I'm a complete novice.  certainly seems more difficult than mig welding so far.  I'm taking an evening intro to welding class at the local technical school.  I was using a Lincoln Power Mig 350 with 1/8" 7018 Excalibur rods.  Had a lot of trouble striking an arc without sticking.  Worked for several minutes with the instructor one on one.  when I was able to get the arc going I seem to run pretty good consistent beads.  Just could not perfect the match stick swipe than would lead to an arc.  The good thing is that I'll have a lot of opportunity to practice.
Reply:If you are sticking the rod allot, turn the amps up some.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:It takes practice to learn how to strike an arc with stick. Once you have it, it's a piece of cake. An auto dark welding shield helps with this a lot.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Thanks.  I was using 120 amps.  Next time l'll try upping the amperage a little and see of that helps. I was using an auto darkening Helmut.  I think it would be a real PITA without one. One thing I noticed was that if I struck the arc on the first try things went smoothly, but trying to re-strike was very difficult.
Reply:7018 gets a glassy coating on the end of the rod when you stop. Some guys break it off with their glove, others keep a file in their pocket to break off the end. Some brands restrike better than others even with the glassy slag still on. 125 amps is roughly where we have students set the machine for 7018, but part of that has to do with how you personally weld. We run that way so students can drag the rod for simplicity. If you carry an arc, you can go slightly lower with no issues..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:on the power mig you can ajust the striking arc force. I'm not sure if I worded that right but down load the manuel and you'll see what I mean. You can turn the force up to where the end of the rod almost seems to explode.
Reply:Good point. Hot start is also adjustable on the PM350. Turning that up may help as well.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:As far as hard Re-Strikes, a Brick on the table you can tap the Flux off the end of the Rod.When you can lay under a Hay Wagon in the dark, with an old school tinted helmet and strike an Arc with 7018.Then you know you got it!
Reply:Class #2 tonight.Listened to your advice.  Cranked up the amps a bit and had a little more success with 7018.  Also had better luck restriking by tapping the rod tip and cleaning the slag off.  Overall I did better.  Would give myself a D+ which is an improvement over the D- I would've graded myself last week.Now here is where you guys will make fun of me.  For ****s and giggles I thought I'd try some new rod types.  And I found my new favorite by far.....6013!  I know it seems like people balk at it as the poor man's rod but that stuff so much easier to use and was so easy to re-strike.  I never once stuck an electrode.  I was burning 1/8" rod at 115 amps. This was really nice because it allowed me to practice on my form, rod angle, puddle control, and movement without having to worry about that damn arc.  The only complaint I had about it was it had a lot more slag and was a little harder to clean up.  I even got some practice in at vertical up and down welding.  Down went okay but up was definitely more difficult for me.  Lastly I burned some 6010.  That stuff sucks.  I had a lot of trouble striking an arc and there was **** loads of hot spatter.  Too much for my marginal makeshift welding cloths.  I think Ill wait till I get better welding gear before burning that stuff.  Overall I'd give myself a C+ on the 6013 and an F on the 6010.  Haha
Reply:Blackwater, once you get the hang of 7018 you'll love it.  For learning, try some 7014's.  They are an easy rod to run and don't have the slag and porosity problem you can run into with the 6013's.
Reply:6013 is OK laying down, 7018 is much better vertical or overhead. Not tough once you get the hang of it.
Reply:With a gloved hand just pinch the concaved flux off the end of the rod before trying restrike.                                                                MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:If you use a file to break the slag off the 7018, make sure the file isn't on a grounded work table, or you will strike an arc on it.Everlast PA160-STH... and that's about it!
Reply:On the farm 70% of my rod was 7014, 25% 6011, 1% nickel, 3% 7018, always kept a little 6013 around for some reason also. Used 6011 on dirty, rusty iron that couldn't get cleaned good.
Reply:I've had several classes since my last post and thought is update my progress.  I am now a true believer in 7018.  It just took a lot more practice.  I spent a couple hours restriking half burned 7018 rods that were lying around the classroom.  Time and practice has definitely helped me improve.  I spent a couple of classes working on multiple pass fillet welds stacking beads and my instructor gave me props for doing reasonably good work.  He started me on vertical up with 7018.  Taught me 3 different methods.  And also practiced the z weave for second and 3rd passes.  Its difficult and again I'm getting better with practice.One other note, I've been using a Lincoln Power mig 350 which I really like.  last class however I had to use a Miller Dialarc 250.  This beast was extremely finicky and hard to dial in.  It seemed like it was either too hot or too cold.  On the few times I had it tuned in it produced a smooth arc but it was frustrating.  I much prefer the Lincoln.
Reply:When you start your arc, scratch the rod like a match instead of poking it where you want to start.
Reply:Mmmm 6010. I like that stuff. Only thing I don't like is that it makes me hungry. Smells like camping and hotdogs.
Reply:People rag on 6013 for a few not so good reasons1) Too lazy to prepare properly2) Hobart and Lincolns 6013 rods both suck3) Technique. Contrary to popular myth a 6013 is NOT a drag rod. I don't mean you can't drag it. I mean it wasn't designed to be welded that way.Set an arc length like you would with a 10-11 and then try to break the weld.IT'S A MEERIKLE ! On these pesky mower decks( billions of them)---drag away.Last edited by Burpee; 02-22-2014 at 12:02 PM.Reason: Spailded Myracle rongBubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:I have used 6013 and a ac buzz box to weld a new old chunk to the corner bit onto my d6 cat instaid of buying a new one. its still there 6 years later