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Been talking about this a long time, it will probably be a long thread and guess you can only post 5 photos at a time. Start out with an oil tank I had, to nice to cut up but what the hell, initial cut made with sawsall, keep the sparks down till it's opened up.really clean inside, I was surprised ans I have had fuel in it outdoors for years, less condensation than I thoughtoriginally I wasn't going to bother with making a hopper on the bottom but then I said mine as well go all the way and I did have a partial sheet of 10 Ga in the garage, heavy but it will be stored outside, and I already have it and have no other use for it right now so heres the layouts Sorry , no big fancy plasma yet, someday. Just the good old torch with a 2 jet tip for plate and sheet metal. If you don't have one of these you are missing out, very thin kerf when you cut, low heat, and is stingy on the gas as well.These tips are getting hard to find and cost almost 50 bucks but I can cut 18 guage the same as you see here and probably a little thinner. Also to give you and idea of how little heat you put into the metal I can run down the straight edge, unclamp it and bare hand it to the next spot I need to cut."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:Well here is and idea of what the tip can do, when I did this everyday and could see a little better there was no grinding or chipping invovled, just wipe the glove down the edge and weld. Now may have to slag it with the chipping hammer and touch with a grinder here or there lightly. Also with the small tips on thin sheet, if you move right along you don't get a lot of warping and discoloration of the metal. I would not call this stuff thin, but when you get 16 ga and under it becomes a problem.may want to tune up the edge of my straight edge, it's geting rough and that effects you when you drag the tip, not as smooth as I would like it.Here's a couple of pictures of some of the pieces, these have not been ground or chipped off even , sorry got dark and had to finish after supper. Hope to start to tack up and assemble the hopper tomorrow, have to cut the lower section of the tank away. Should be able to post some more tonight if I have a good day on it today. Also for some of you starting out and having trouble with clean torch cuts, its a pain and takes time but the best way is to grind the mill scale off clean, just like welding , I rarely do it but if you want a real clean cut it helps a lot.Last edited by kolot; 04-28-2012 at 08:56 AM."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:Great start. Cuts look PERFECT! Keep the pictures flowing. In my dreams I think of building a blast cabnet.Dave ReberWadsworth Ohio
Reply:I used to have a bunch of those tanks that I ended up scraping to make room. I never thought about turning one into a blast cabinet. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Good start!Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:looking good. you can buy kits and parts from tp tools Attached Images
Reply:How do you safely cut something open like this that had oil or fuel inside of it?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Looks good. On the list too.Millermatic 211PowerPlasma 50s
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleHow do you safely cut something open like this that had oil or fuel inside of it?
Reply:Sawzaw has a metal blade on metal tank, how does that not make sparks?What is the proper way to clean the entire inside of the tank prior to welding it?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Chances of sparks is greatly reduced, especially if you use the tool properly. I almost never have sparks running a sawzall thru steel. If you are, you probably need to learn to use the saw 1st before anything else.The proper way is to use a combustible gas meter and O2 meter to monitor the tank contents for flammable gasses and O2 levels. Usually they purge the tank with an inert gas, CO2, nitrogen etc, to displace the vapors and monitor continuously during the process. Generally not a DIY process for the average hobbyist. Small tanks can be sent out to a radiator shop to be "boiled", but that's not an option with large tanks..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Damn, I was expecting an old Chevy truck cab.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWChances of sparks is greatly reduced, especially if you use the tool properly. I almost never have sparks running a sawzall thru steel. If you are, you probably need to learn to use the saw 1st before anything else.The proper way is to use a combustible gas meter and O2 meter to monitor the tank contents for flammable gasses and O2 levels. Usually they purge the tank with an inert gas, CO2, nitrogen etc, to displace the vapors and monitor continuously during the process. Generally not a DIY process for the average hobbyist. Small tanks can be sent out to a radiator shop to be "boiled", but that's not an option with large tanks.
Reply:Great idea for a blasting cab. Keep the pic's coming for sure! I assume you are using that cut end as the access door as apposed to having a flip up top? My ole plywood cab is dead. I'm interested in seeing how yours goes.As for the sparks and going boom. Takes a good bit of spark heat to cause ignition and must be a high enough concentration of flammable gas with enough oxygen to get a boom. Plus enough compression to get pressure for a proper boom. I just tossed an oil drum on a fire to burn it out dry, with out the lid cut open. Just the 3" spout open. No problems. But never take safety lightly. If you don't have the experience or knowledge then best not to.Last edited by bert the welder; 04-28-2012 at 06:23 PM.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:OK today didn't go as planned, My cousing, and my electrician called this AM unexpectedly and said , how about I come out today and upgrade the electrical service in your garage like we have been talking about. So Good news is I now have 200 amp cabable garage but only 100 for now due to house service, that will come later. Bad news is I did not get the bottom on the cabinet, But don't threat got some more done anyways. Here's the hopper tacked up Figured the dimensions for these on my kitchen table , sketched, then went out and cut. Everything went together very well , matched just about perfect, and my final dimensions on the outer edges were within 1/8 and diagonals were dead square. OK, won't get back to this till Monday, gotta work a 24 hr shift tomorrow. Basically I will cut the bottom of the tank to match this hopper and set it in place. Think the cut portion of the tank will some how get molded into my compressor tank smoker to come in the near future. Or I may extend the end of the blast cabinet. Beginning to think I should have just fabbed a cabinet from scratch. The orginal idea was to just use the tank to avoid open air blasting and just shovel the sand back into the pot each time. Now I have a 4 inch square opening at the bottom, have to create a door or sliding door that will seal, and open when I want to dump the sand out. Any ideas would be apreciated. Thanks"Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingDamn, I was expecting an old Chevy truck cab.
Reply:Originally Posted by bert the welderGreat idea for a blasting cab. Keep the pic's coming for sure! I assume you are using that cut end as the access door as apposed to having a flip up top? My ole plywood cab is dead. I'm interested in seeing how yours goes.As for the sparks and going boom. Takes a good bit of spark heat to cause ignition and must be a high enough concentration of flammable gas with enough oxygen to get a boom. Plus enough compression to get pressure for a proper boom. I just tossed an oil drum on a fire to burn it out dry, with out the lid cut open. Just the 3" spout open. No problems. But never take safety lightly. If you don't have the experience or knowledge then best not to.
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleHow do you safely cut something open like this that had oil or fuel inside of it?
Reply:So, how does one choose the angles to get from the top opening to the bottom opening? I got confused making a small hopper in a class a while back. If it is just an arbitrary angle, well, that's ok with me. Just curious.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by tanglediverSo, how does one choose the angles to get from the top opening to the bottom opening? I got confused making a small hopper in a class a while back. If it is just an arbitrary angle, well, that's ok with me. Just curious.
Reply:I come from the school of paper and pencil myself. The height of the hopper is a known, ok.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingDamn, I was expecting an old Chevy truck cab.
Reply:I like the idea and good job fabricating. I made one out of a old dishwasher once. Worked well but was to small so I made this one. Just wanted to point out that I think you're going to have trouble getting the media to slide on the sides of that chute. Mine has much steeper sides than that and I was forced to put a vibrator on it to get good feed to my suction tube. Just thought I'd warn you before you got to far. Attached ImagesMillermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Cut the bottom out today, welded the hopper in, lost most of the day as my friend called me , ran his Zero turn mower without oil, and now it is banging and leaking, you know what that means, Most of my mourning helping him tear the motor out. Fit up went well and got it all welded. Next will have to come up with some legs and then the door. Attached Images"Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:I have to admit I was worried and at least wondering how the media will slide. Learning curve on the first one out. I think a lot of my blasting will be from the pressure pot with the cabinet just containing. I will move on to the syphon later. If I put enough medial in the cabinet it shouldn't be a problem. I do have and air dryer so keeping the air and medial dry should help. Won't know for sure till I start blasting. Nice job on your cabinet by the way, looks factory or better. How big are the glove holes, they look big in the picture? What did you use for the bottom of the hopper as far as a trap door to let the sand out?Last edited by kolot; 04-30-2012 at 10:45 PM."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400Originally Posted by kolotI have to admit I was worried and at least wondering how the media will slide. Learning curve on the first one out. I think a lot of my blasting will be from the pressure pot with the cabinet just containing. I will move on to the syphon later. If I put enough medial in the cabinet it shouldn't be a problem. I do have and air dryer so keeping the air and medial dry should help. Won't know for sure till I start blasting. Nice job on your cabinet by the way, looks factory or better. How big are the glove holes, they look big in the picture? What did you use for the bottom of the hopper as far as a trap door to let the sand out?
Reply:Originally Posted by kolotI have to admit I was worried and at least wondering how the media will slide. Learning curve on the first one out. I think a lot of my blasting will be from the pressure pot with the cabinet just containing. I will move on to the syphon later. If I put enough medial in the cabinet it shouldn't be a problem. I do have and air dryer so keeping the air and medial dry should help. Won't know for sure till I start blasting. Nice job on your cabinet by the way, looks factory or better. How big are the glove holes, they look big in the picture? What did you use for the bottom of the hopper as far as a trap door to let the sand out?
Reply:More pictures, Like ZZ Top said, " She's Got Legs" Lot's of rain over last 2 days and garage is pretty crowded right now so not much room to work. Picture makes it look crooked as drive way is sloped but it is actually quite straight and level Legs will get a tube welded between them, short dimension, so it can be picked with forklift, It is getting heavy quickly. tacking up the legsIf it doesn't work out may make a big mailbox out of it, would definately handle those UPS packages.Now on to the door, trick is to keep the opening as big as possible. Mine as well allow as big a piece as possible to fit. Rough dimensions right now are 27" wide and about 40" tall without counting the dip in the hopper.Last edited by kolot; 05-09-2012 at 11:25 PM."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:Well the cabinet is beginning to take shape, squared off the end with 1 1/4 X 1/8 angle Then to save material re used the cut out oval piece, squared it off, will gasket for a sand tight fit later.Door frame is 1/2" bigger around perimeter for clearance and to get gaskets in later, here it is clamped in place with spacers until hinge is made and mounted."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:Good luck on your build, I built myself one several years ago, I wanted top opening but still to look similar to a scat blast. I used all new sheet to build it, by the time it was said and done I would have been cheaper off to buy one on sale from tp with the vacuum already with it, I never saw that coming until I added my receipts.
Reply:Had a lot of different and alloborate ideas for hinges, in the end went with what I had on hand to keep the cost down and time is also starting to add up on this. Hinges are simple, maybe even primitive, however I was very pleased with how they ended up swinging all said and done and the fit of the door on the frame is also very good so I am happy , will just have to figure out what I will use for gasket material, TP tools has a few different sizes to choos from as well as other sources. The pressed and formed end of the tank is not even across the front and with the way I cut the seem this is how I came up with a flat surface to start the hinge work Primitive hinge and had bolt on hand for pins so thats what i used for today to get the door hung Will cut away the corners of the flat stocks that form the hinges and round out the corners tomorrow. Next will cut the window and square out the opening, will have to form some angles in my little brake for this and then decide on a window size. Also will cut holes for the glove flanges, looks like I will need 7 1/2 " holes. Will have to try out my new to me home made circle cutters, not ready to spring those on you yet as I am not quite sure how to explain how they will work. My own design and you may want to steal it if you like. Probably will have to do a Thread on those alone. LOL"Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:Originally Posted by cd19Good luck on your build, I built myself one several years ago, I wanted top opening but still to look similar to a scat blast. I used all new sheet to build it, by the time it was said and done I would have been cheaper off to buy one on sale from tp with the vacuum already with it, I never saw that coming until I added my receipts.
Reply:Kolot:I'm interested in your thin kerf tip. It looks like you have a Smith cutting torch in the pix's?Mine is a Smith and I'd like to find out the part number if you know it for the two hole tip?Nice job on the build.Cheers.Glenn.Sign on East Texas payphone: Calls to God 40 cents......it's a local call...
Reply:It's late but i wil try to get the number of the tip and post up tomorrow, will also shoot you a PM. Be prepared for the guy at the local welding supply to not know about them. and I think they are pricey but it sure cuts nice. I can do ok with it up to probably 5/8 maybe a little more. preheat is the worst, once your off and cutting slow and steady."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:[ Sorry , no big fancy plasma yet, someday. Just the good old torch with a 2 jet tip for plate and sheet metal. If you don't have one of these you are missing out, very thin kerf when you cut, low heat, and is stingy on the gas as well.Attachment 151251These tips are getting hard to find and cost almost 50 bucks but I can cut 18 guage the same as you see here and probably a little thinner. Also to give you and idea of how little heat you put into the metal I can run down the straight edge, unclamp it and bare hand it to the next spot I need to cut.[/QUOTE]I've used this style of tip for more years than I'd care to admit to, and have had great results with them. It's surprising how fast you can travel using this tip, and as stated, heat input is minimal.Bgbkwndo.
Reply:Originally Posted by StampederKolot:I'm interested in your thin kerf tip. It looks like you have a Smith cutting torch in the pix's?Mine is a Smith and I'd like to find out the part number if you know it for the two hole tip?Nice job on the build.Cheers.Glenn.
Reply:Thanks that's great. So you just turn the step in the tip away from you and drag it towards you to cut? Have it touching the sheet metal surface?I don't have a plasma and with this tip I may not need one for the things I'm doing. Can you use a wooden template next to it on top of the sheet metal? I have a grapple I'm making and the template for the hooks are made out of hardboard.Thanks again for the additional photos.Got to go find one of these for less than $50 if possible.Glenn.Sign on East Texas payphone: Calls to God 40 cents......it's a local call...
Reply:Here you go. http://www.weldfabulous.com/p-22078-...es-sc17-0.aspxSyncrowave 250MM130
Reply:Originally Posted by StampederThanks that's great. So you just turn the step in the tip away from you and drag it towards you to cut? Have it touching the sheet metal surface?I don't have a plasma and with this tip I may not need one for the things I'm doing. Can you use a wooden template next to it on top of the sheet metal? I have a grapple I'm making and the template for the hooks are made out of hardboard.Thanks again for the additional photos.Got to go find one of these for less than $50 if possible.Glenn.
Reply:kolot,Looking good! I may have to make a better bottom funnel for mine like you did. I've just got an old drum funnel welded in the center of mine right now (goes from 12" or so down to 2"). I've been doing a little overhauling on mine lately and just finished the new light window tonight. Might be a little hard to see under the crazy glow, but there's a 47" x 8" sheet of plexiglas bolted to a flange made up of 1x1x1/8" angle, 1x1/8" flat stock, and some plasma-CNC'ed 1/8" sheet (the flange basically adapts the curved surface of the tank to something flat for the plexiglas to bolt to). There's an M6 screw about every 4 inches all the way around the flange. Had to space the light mounts out too, so I used some Frankenstein 1/4-20 threaded studs with a couple nuts stacked up on each outside of the tank. Next will be rolling some 1x1/8 flat stock to make better glove portals... Attached Images
Reply:Well here's and update on the Sandblast cabinet. Got a lot of the parts from TP Tools, easy to order and fast delivery. First is the inside Coupling welded through cabinet and air T will supply the sandblast gun and an air spray gun for cleaning off the sand on parts while still inside.Siphon tube is in place. here are a couple of the outside, hand holes were cut with my torch and my newly made circle cutter, it worked well and I will post a quick build on that if your interested. flanges and window flange are from TP tools.This is a shot of how I laid the rectangular frame into the rounded portion of the tank. Window frame is roughly 12x 33. Unit is all different primer to keep from rusting time being. later I will strip all the parts out and give it a paint job as it will likely find it's home outside my garage but under a large overhang. Should do just fine. OK , I'm taking a poll, put it on casters or not? Attached Images"Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251 Syncrowave 300 30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200 1 short hood SA250 SAM 400
Reply:Kolot, what a great job. Looks professional. Thanks for sharing it.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:wow, dam nice looking, absolutley put on casters with locking wheels so you can move it around..what do you think finished weight is?..finish it off with a coat of paint and you cant buy anything better...Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Excellent! I have a boughten old HF type cabinet that comes in very handy! One thing I haven't got down though is the evac setup. I have tried all kinds of ideas and they all have drawbacks. I have tried using a shop vac pulling the air threw another shop vac which was used as the hopper/filter. It worked alright but I was still getting dust in the air past the second shops vac. Then I tried pushing the air strait outside by blowing the air off the shop vac into the blast cabinet which shows you where all the leaks are... Finally I have a very small fan I stuck in the one vent hole of the cabinet which blows air into the cabinet much like the last shop vac idea but at a much lower speed and pressure so dust doesn't come blowing out of all the cracks, just some of them. Nothing is perfect.What do you guys do for an evac system?
Reply:Originally Posted by VPTExcellent! I have a boughten old HF type cabinet that comes in very handy! One thing I haven't got down though is the evac setup. I have tried all kinds of ideas and they all have drawbacks. I have tried using a shop vac pulling the air threw another shop vac which was used as the hopper/filter. It worked alright but I was still getting dust in the air past the second shops vac. Then I tried pushing the air strait outside by blowing the air off the shop vac into the blast cabinet which shows you where all the leaks are... Finally I have a very small fan I stuck in the one vent hole of the cabinet which blows air into the cabinet much like the last shop vac idea but at a much lower speed and pressure so dust doesn't come blowing out of all the cracks, just some of them. Nothing is perfect.What do you guys do for an evac system?
Reply:Originally Posted by VPTWhat do you guys do for an evac system?
Reply:Originally Posted by dbotosOneida Air Systems - Dust Deputy DIY:http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD...m_no=AXD001004
Reply:nice build, nice cabinet..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Originally Posted by dbotosOneida Air Systems - Dust Deputy DIY:http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD...m_no=AXD001004
Reply:Originally Posted by VPTWell that looks like a swell little product! Does much dust make it threw the cyclone? That was my biggest problem even with the shop vacs piggy backed, the dust would stay airborne and make it threw both shop vacs and filters.Any of you make the system a closed loop where the output of the shop vac went back into the cabinet? |
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