TIG welding 4130 chromoly

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I just started practicing on this stuff for the first time.  I have a couple random questions.Should I be pulsing on this stuff?And is it possible to properly tack a joint without using filler?"There are two types of people in America - those who try to classify everyone into two types and those who don't."
Reply:If your not going to have the parts stress relieved/heat treated use 70-S2 filler just like if you were welding mild steel. Pulsing shouldn't be needed but can help with heat control. As for tacking, it depends on the joint configuration
Reply:Yup, that's the filler I'm using.I'm going to be tacking several joints like this (not my pic):"There are two types of people in America - those who try to classify everyone into two types and those who don't."
Reply:Practice practice practice.... I don't pulse.Always draw down your amps slowly, helps keep the stops frome getting brittle and a crack developing.
Reply:>>As for tacking, it depends on the joint configuration <<I am also practicing welding Chromoly tubing (thin wall .083), I find that if the joint is tight you can tack without filler very easily.Gosh, I wish my welds looked like those in the picture, maybe some day.Regards to all.Working on cars and bikes is my hobby, learning to weld the pieces together is my quest.
Reply:As long as your fit up is nearly perfect yes you can tack with no filler..After tacking without you should tack right next to it with filler so it won't pull apart when doing the finish welding..I do it all the time  when needed with most stuff except aluminum......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Thanks for the input guys!  I'll give fillerless tacking a try again.  Maybe I had the amperage too low the first time.   Originally Posted by DavidSimGosh, I wish my welds looked like those in the picture, maybe some day.
Reply:Using er70 sounds like a bandaid fix for proper procedure. Not saying I wouldn't do it but is te proper way to stress relieve the welded parts? How do they do large things? Big oven?HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Idealarc SP250Miller 180 AC StickBy farmall:They should have held the seagull closer to the work, squeezing evenly for best deposition.
Reply:From the research I've done, I've concluded that ER70S-2 is the proper filler.  Using a 4130 filler would require heat treating, which is incredibly impractical for large automotive chassis components.  ER70 makes for a strong, yet flexible and shock absorbing weld joint.I know zapster knows quite a bit more about this than I do."There are two types of people in America - those who try to classify everyone into two types and those who don't."
Reply:Originally Posted by fordmanUsing er70 sounds like a bandaid fix for proper procedure. Not saying I wouldn't do it but is te proper way to stress relieve the welded parts? How do they do large things? Big oven?
Reply:Ok you said to stress relieve. Which is good. Most people think they can just weld it with er70 and it's good to go.... That's why I'm looking for the proper procedure....HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Idealarc SP250Miller 180 AC StickBy farmall:They should have held the seagull closer to the work, squeezing evenly for best deposition.
Reply:That pic looks familiar I'll usually use a little filler on a tack if I know that I am starting my weld on the opposite side and need a little more strength due to the pulling of the weld. I don't want the shrinkage and distortion to break my tack on the other side. If it's the side I'm starting on though, I usually don't use any filler.Regarding filler choice, here is a good piece from Lincoln. http://www.racetechsteel.com.au/_lit..._77236/lincoln