Fuel surge tank with dual walbros

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Making this for my car, found here: http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=49492The only thing I havent done myself for this project is machine the lid mounting flange. A friend did it at work with a prototrak.I designed the whole thing in Solidworks before I started. This was my first time creating a complete assembly with it (Im basically a level 0 using Solidworks). Anyway, all said it definitely helped to get it packaged and it was fun to design the custom parts that I needed to machine.I modeled the Y block in Solidworks and machined it myself. The barb fittings, which I turned down from NPT fittings, are press fit (obviously). The model for the tank lid mounting ring is done, Im just waiting it to be machined. I also started on a design for the hanger bracket to hold both pumps. It needs a bit of tweaking, Almost done with the fuel pump hanger (obviously adjusted from the original model). Just need to cut a couple slots for the clamps and it should be ready to weld to the tank lid. (and no, thats not fuel line, just some crap for the mockup)It just needs a baseplate, studs for the pump wires, real fuel line between the pumps and Y block, and an oring. Im hoping to finish up in the next week or so, but we'll see. Dan
Reply:Nice work!Miller Dynasty 200DXMiller Spectrum 250DMiller Millermatic 200Bunch of old blue dinosaurs....
Reply:very cool I like it.
Reply:Very slick,You may have said somewhere and I missed it. But what are you useing for an O ring? Is it something that can easily be replaced with an in stock item at like a farm equipment store?If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:Looks good... what are you using to feed the surge tank?
Reply:You've repeatedly shown, exhaustive, professional level work on that car,which is impressive.I'll mention this gently--it's not meant as criticism (and you're probably, fully awareof this.):Exposed AN fittings, as shown below are very readily damaged by just one 'ding' on the sealing cone. The only 'fixin' is to then replace the leaker.This is prevented by using AN caps.(I get really antsy when 'big time, wannabe, racers'--or aircraft monkeys show up at my shoprattling around AN fittings loose, for weld install or wish repair on tanks, logs, etc.--with naked AN fittings.)http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1332994957 Attached ImagesBlackbird
Reply:Thanks guys!! Originally Posted by larpheadVery slick,You may have said somewhere and I missed it. But what are you useing for an O ring? Is it something that can easily be replaced with an in stock item at like a farm equipment store?
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonYou've repeatedly shown, exhaustive, professional level work on that car,which is impressive.I'll mention this gently--it's not meant as criticism (and you're probably, fully awareof this.):Exposed AN fittings, as shown below are very readily damaged by just one 'ding' on the sealing cone. The only 'fixin' is to then replace the leaker.This is prevented by using AN caps.(I get really antsy when 'big time, wannabe, racers'--or aircraft monkeys show up at my shoprattling around AN fittings loose, for weld install or wish repair on tanks, logs, etc.--with naked AN fittings.)http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1332994957
Reply:Originally Posted by larpheadVery slick,You may have said somewhere and I missed it. But what are you useing for an O ring? Is it something that can easily be replaced with an in stock item at like a farm equipment store?
Reply:Originally Posted by juicedz4Making this for my car, found here: http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=49492The only thing I havent done myself for this project is machine the lid mounting flange. A friend did it at work with a prototrak.I designed the whole thing in Solidworks before I started. This was my first time creating a complete assembly with it (Im basically a level 0 using Solidworks). Anyway, all said it definitely helped to get it packaged and it was fun to design the custom parts that I needed to machine.I modeled the Y block in Solidworks and machined it myself. The barb fittings, which I turned down from NPT fittings, are press fit (obviously). The model for the tank lid mounting ring is done, Im just waiting it to be machined. I also started on a design for the hanger bracket to hold both pumps. It needs a bit of tweaking, Almost done with the fuel pump hanger (obviously adjusted from the original model). Just need to cut a couple slots for the clamps and it should be ready to weld to the tank lid. (and no, thats not fuel line, just some crap for the mockup)It just needs a baseplate, studs for the pump wires, real fuel line between the pumps and Y block, and an oring. Im hoping to finish up in the next week or so, but we'll see. Dan
Reply:Really nice work.  I did a dual walbro hanger back in the day for my turbocharged BMW E30.  Mine worked, but yours came out much better.
Reply:I dinged an AN fitting on a fuel rail I built a while ago... spent 20 minutes hand sanding it until it sealed, what a PITA.
Reply:Since my dad unexpectedly passed away at 73 on April 5th I havent been very motivated, nor had much time, to work on car projects. However, life goes on, and Im finally getting back to it. Tuesday night I finished welding the surge tank. I still need to decide on how to feed the power wires through the lid, but the main fab work is done now. The hoses are just screwed to the tank to see how they will run/look. Likely the return line on the top of the tank is going to follow the feed line which should be cleaner. More to come, hopefully a little more regularly now. Dan
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonYou've repeatedly shown, exhaustive, professional level work on that car,which is impressive.I'll mention this gently--it's not meant as criticism (and you're probably, fully awareof this.):Exposed AN fittings, as shown below are very readily damaged by just one 'ding' on the sealing cone. The only 'fixin' is to then replace the leaker.This is prevented by using AN caps.http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1332994957
Reply:Sorry to hear about your father. As for the wires, you might want to look for something like this.http://www.directindustry.com/prod/b...60-453365.htmlThey use something like that for marine applications, I'm looking for other links for you.Can't find what I'm looking for...Last edited by speedfreak87; 06-08-2012 at 07:12 PM.www.thefusionsolution.com
Reply:THanks. I worry about fuel wicking up through the strands, inside the jacket, using one of those bulkheads. I do have some E85 safe epoxy I could seal the ends of the wires with.......Dan
Reply:I know they use something similar for the in tank pumps on the water tanks for the air to water inter coolers.. should be able to use they with fuel.. silicone as an extra precaution isn't a bad thing either.www.thefusionsolution.com
Reply:Last night I pulled the fuel rail, cut off the -6 inlet bung and welded on a -8. Re-"anodized" the rail and installed it. Then I completely plumbed the surge tank. Now it just needs to be wired and anodized. Dan
Reply:http://www.pavetechnologyco.com/index.html
Reply:Where the top bolts down, you don't need any type of O ring?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Yeah, I like the sealed bulkhead connectors like Thordehr suggested.  Much less likely to leak on a flat flange gasket than a through-wire type connection.Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig  Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:Originally Posted by thordehrhttp://www.pavetechnologyco.com/index.html
Reply:Originally Posted by speedfreak87I know they use something similar for the in tank pumps on the water tanks for the air to water inter coolers.. should be able to use they with fuel.. silicone as an extra precaution isn't a bad thing either.
Reply:I have some E-85 safe epoxy that Im going to use as a sealant around and under the nylon shoulder washers and feed thru bolts. I think it will work just fine. Dan
Reply:FINALLY, the surge tank is fully installed and ready to prime! I didnt think it would ever happen. Anyway, pics:Wire feed thrus with nylon shoulder washer insulators. (the ground stud is longer so I can attach an insulated cover someday, maybe. I sealed inside each pair of shoulder washers with E85 safe epoxy, and on the ground studall assembled. dropping it in. Note the nice o-ringlid all bolted downwire harness connectedall bolted downDanNice build, but that is also a helluvalot of fuel to have splashed over a red hot turbo and possibly sparking electric stuff when you're in an accident. Mounted in that location I wouldn't expect to need a very hard crash before the tank is damaged, I'd put it in the trunk or under the car to keep it away from such obvious ignition sources and crumple zones.
Reply:I agree with the above, also, does that front bar flex any? the tab looks really close to the tank.. All in all though, good job on it.www.thefusionsolution.com