SS Oilpan

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Hello Fellas,I would like to fabricate a stainless steel oilpan for an 02 7.3L Powerstroke.It seems to me that 316L SS would be the way to go but was wondering what your thoughts would be on material thickness.And best rod for this for TIG.Your thoughts, info and suggestions are appreciated.Dynasty 200 DXMM 211Spectrum 375 X
Reply:What is the application?  304L would be adequate for most land based applications and save you a lot of money.  316L is for salt water exposure.  I would probably work with something in the neighborhood of 1/16th inch.
Reply:Ive got a fair bit of experience building SS oilpans and it is not as easy task.  You MUST make a heavy jig to bolt it to while welding and even then you should count on having to do a little bit of straightening. Also, you need to make the flange slightly bigger than the final dimension because it will shrink once you weld the sides to it.  Normally they shrink somewhere in the range of 1/16-3/16" over the length of the pan with a 1" wide 1/4" flange.Ours are built with 304 and so far we have had no issues.  I dont know why you think you need 316 for these but I would say stick with 304.If you want, PM me and I will give you the information of the shop I work for and we could build you one.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:what about the baffling or the interior..galling of the threads on the drainplug. heat cracks? stress cracking?? why ss...mod it the way ya want it and anodize it or have it nickel plated or jet hot coated..ceramic is nice also and eaiser to keep nice than ss
Reply:Thanks fellas for your replies.76GMC1500- I live here in the Northeast and all winter long all we have on our roads is salt water exposure.  The amount of salting is unbelievable.  Furthermore, now it is even worse- they are spraying down liquid chlorides!dieselbeef- all you suggestions are appreciated, but are still prone to eventual rusting.  I would like to put on a pan that will never rust again.snOborder88- nice pics of some nice work.  Your pointing out of the shrinkage situation is noted.  Will PM you.  Thanks.Dynasty 200 DXMM 211Spectrum 375 X
Reply:DocB, is your pan rusted? I have an '01 and noticed alot of cancer on it and it has me concerned. My brothers '01 is perfect. He has an Excursion and I have a 350. I plow and he does not. But he travels the same roads in the winter. I do not salt and where I plow doesn't see alot of salt like the city streets. I too am interested in a SS pan. sn0border88 I will send a PM also."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Thanks for reminding me why i dont live anywhere that water turns hard outdoors.    I Forgot some of the many reasons i dont like snow.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmZooU7Q6ck"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmZooU7Q6ck[/ame] Hey these guys right here will fix you up.I here they also repair welding equipment on the side if anyone is interested.
Reply:Originally Posted by sixturbosixHey these guys right here will fix you up.I here they also repair welding equipment on the side if anyone is interested.
Reply:Originally Posted by sixturbosix... Hey these guys right here will fix you up.I here they also repair welding equipment on the side if anyone is interested.
Reply:Looks like i'm in trouble if I have any problems.Maybe they make a Miller or Lincoln cap that will slide down over mine as a quick fix.
Reply:Don't rag on epoxy coatings, properly applied they are good $#%.  We use Splash Zone epoxy to repair corrosion pits in our boats under water all of the time.  Once applied it's a lifetime repair.  The next corrosion area will be in another location because the epoxy doesn't corrode.
Reply:I could see doing that repair to a Chevy but not a workhorse like the Superduty.
Reply:Originally Posted by 76GMC1500Don't rag on epoxy coatings, properly applied they are good $#%.  We use Splash Zone epoxy to repair corrosion pits in our boats under water all of the time.  Once applied it's a lifetime repair.  The next corrosion area will be in another location because the epoxy doesn't corrode.
Reply:Originally Posted by sixturbosixI could see doing that repair to a Chevy but not a workhorse like the Superduty.
Reply:I wont speak to the effectiveness of the epoxy coatings, but I do know that there is several used pans at our shop that got sent in as samples from customers to get stainless ones made that are covered in that epoxy stuff.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Why not powdercoat the pan?
Reply:New steel pans are almost as expensive as stainless replacements, and if the powder coat gets chipped from a stone or something its all downhill from there.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Unfortunately the reason people have resorted to this kind of fix for the 7.3l in a Superduty truck or Excursion is because the engine has to be removed to replace the oil pan.No way I know of to squeeze it out without removal of engine and thats a big job and more so a costly job if you take it to an independent garage or dealer.
Reply:Originally Posted by dieselbeefhuh...now tha ya mention it...i have never seen A CUMMINS oilpan rust out..ever think about buyin a real truck??  ike a RAM.. maybe
Reply:I have seen a cummins oil pan crack and drop all the oil out going down the road.  does that count. mind you this was an 14L ISX.  makes it even worse i think.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:If it's got spark plugs, it's not a truck...I'd rather be stroked, than rammed...And I don't do bowties!!!"Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88Ive got a fair bit of experience building SS oilpans..Also, you need to make the flange slightly bigger than the final dimension because it will shrink once you weld the sides to it.  Normally they shrink somewhere in the range of 1/16-3/16" over the length of the pan with a 1" wide 1/4" flange.
Reply:Originally Posted by dieselbeefhuh...now tha ya mention it...i have never seen A CUMMINS oilpan rust out..
Reply:Originally Posted by zipzitSnow...    I'm confused by your photos.. 1/8" +/- is a pretty big shrinkage.  But I see from your photos, your oilpan flanges are drilled prior to welding.. With that type of shrinkage, I'd think you cut the flange pattern a little big, then drill the bolt holes AFTER weld up... or is the shrinkage so repeatable that you can do a CAD drawing, apply a small expansion factor to it, etc...How do you compensate for oil pan flange shrink factor?  (Oh.. and my reason for asking is comparison to steel molds made for molded plastic & shrink factors...)thanks, zip.Originally Posted by 76GMC1500You don't have to worry about the Cummins pan rusting out or any other part failing on the engine within the lifetime of the truck...  Cummins engines don't last longer than anybody else's, the rest of the truck just fails first.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWIs that because the oil leaks out constantly and protects the metal from corrosion?  We've had vehicles like that at work...
Reply:Originally Posted by zipzitSnow...    I'm confused by your photos.. 1/8" +/- is a pretty big shrinkage.  But I see from your photos, your oilpan flanges are drilled prior to welding.. With that type of shrinkage, I'd think you cut the flange pattern a little big, then drill the bolt holes AFTER weld up... or is the shrinkage so repeatable that you can do a CAD drawing, apply a small expansion factor to it, etc...How do you compensate for oil pan flange shrink factor?  (Oh.. and my reason for asking is comparison to steel molds made for molded plastic & shrink factors...)thanks, zip.
Reply:Hi Everyone,I'm looking for some kind of advice. I have an Audi A4 that is leaking some oil. Perhaps up to a quart a week. THere's a smal hole/crack on the bottom of the oil pan. The stealership has quoted $670 for replacing the oil pan, but i've been reading that TIG welding may do the job just fine.If I decide to go this route, who would I call? An auto Body shop? a regular mechanic? Who would have such tools for welding? I would appreciate if somebody could point me in the right directionAlso, what should I expect to pay to have this done by a welding professional?Here's what the damage looks like.
Reply:I would consider making an aluminum oil pan before stainless.   With a thicker flange and a little heavier sides i think it would be a better alternative than stainless.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Originally Posted by rtgHi Everyone,I'm looking for some kind of advice. I have an Audi A4 that is leaking some oil. Perhaps up to a quart a week. THere's a smal hole/crack on the bottom of the oil pan. The stealership has quoted $670 for replacing the oil pan, but i've been reading that TIG welding may do the job just fine.If I decide to go this route, who would I call? An auto Body shop? a regular mechanic? Who would have such tools for welding? I would appreciate if somebody could point me in the right directionAlso, what should I expect to pay to have this done by a welding professional?Here's what the damage looks like.
Reply:Audi A4 oil pans are cheap on Ebay. At the listed prices I wouldn't bother welding a cracked one.