Best way to weld round to plate

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Hello all,I have no experience welding yet, in the meantime I am reading up on it before I start. So my knowledge in this is very limited.I am looking for a welder to fabricate a cantilever arm/platform mounted on a flange mount bearing bolted to a concrete floor.  need to know what to tell the welder. I've attached a sketch. side view top, top view below it.1. A round bar needs to be attached to a plate. The cantilever total length is 30 ". Load on center and away from the axle.Because of the weight, I'm concern the weakest areas would be the weld around the shaft to the plate. Circled in green sideview.Would a weld be enough? the shaft is 1 1/2" diameter and the plate is 3/8" thick.Are there other methods to join the two? weld and a bolt through the top of the plate into the shaft?Insert the shaft through the plate and weld around the shaft the top and under the plate?Any suggestions would be appreciated.Also, Im planning to use plain steel, it seems cheaper and from what I read don't need special equipment like stainless steel.If someone can give me some advice on this would be helpful too.
Reply:What is the anticipated weight of the load?  Will it be static or dynamic?I offer three choices: Good, Fast, & Cheap. You may pick two.Hobart AC/DC StikMate LXHarbor Freight AD HoodHarbor Freight Industrial Chop SawDeVilbis 20 Gallon, 5 HP Compressor
Reply:What is it exactly you are tring to make? Maybe you can get better/more responses if we had a better idea of what you are going for. You might also want to post your location, as there may be a forum member near you that may be able to help with this. What is this thing supposed to do when completed?
Reply:If the engineering has been done, and the 3/8" plate is sufficient for the load, a 3/8" fillet weld would be sufficient also.The weld, properly executed need be no stronger than the weaker of the two attached pieces. That would be the 3/8" plate.If there is no problem with the weld being visible from the top, and if a fillet weld on top of the plate will not interfere with the functionality, it could be simply welded from the top.On the other hand, if necessary, one could insert the shaft through the plate and bevel the plate opening to enable a full penetration weld.And if you are going to go to that trouble, after the back weld is completed, you might as well go to the top side, back gouge the joint and fill it, to make a truly 100% weld. Then, if necessary/desired, you could grind the welds flush on both sides.I guess the load is not too great, since there are no gussets mentioned....but I darn sure am not an engineer, so, as they say ...TIFWIW.
Reply:Not sure of the load, but another option would be to drill and thread your shaft for a bolt down through the plate. Better than a bolt would be to turn a shoulder and thread the end of the axle and put a nut on it.Not sure what your making but sometimes when I'm making stuff like this I'll use a bolt on stub axle off a car. With a stub axle, it would be bolted to the floor and the bearings ride on the axle and the hub would be attached to the arm. This would also allow for the use of tapered bearings which will carry more load than a pillow block. You'll have to make a hub that would be welded to the plate but any shop could turn that out.This stub happens to be off a VW... but they are all similar.
Reply:Originally Posted by mogul70Hello all, Are there other methods to join the two? weld and a bolt through the top of the plate into the shaft?Insert the shaft through the plate and weld around the shaft the top and under the plate? .
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireNot sure of the load, but another option would be to drill and thread your shaft for a bolt down through the plate. Better than a bolt would be to turn a shoulder and thread the end of the axle and put a nut on it.Not sure what your making but sometimes when I'm making stuff like this I'll use a bolt on stub axle off a car. With a stub axle, it would be bolted to the floor and the bearings ride on the axle and the hub would be attached to the arm. This would also allow for the use of tapered bearings which will carry more load than a pillow block. You'll have to make a hub that would be welded to the plate but any shop could turn that out.This stub happens to be off a VW... but they are all similar.
Reply:I think that if you talk to a professional welder that's reputable and he comes out on-site to give you an estimate, HE will more than likely tell you what is best for securely mounting your project/job.  Have 2-3 separate welding contractors come out for an estimate and see if they all basically suggest the same basic idea and concept for the job.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Sounds like evil genius, SuperArc. Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:Nadogail,About 500 lbs. Im guessing dynamic since it will swing out.This is for a for a cabinet that sits on top of the arm.Last edited by mogul70; 03-10-2014 at 10:54 PM.
Reply:Superarc,Thanks for the tip. I'll do that. Got to find some reputable welders in NYC.
Reply:forhireI wish I found this site sooner. This would have been a perfect solution, with the tapered bearings I wouldnt have had to worried about the thrust load. Also looks way better than what I currently have planned.Last edited by mogul70; 03-10-2014 at 10:56 PM.
Reply:Bistineau,I should have been a little more detailed. Thought I keep it simple but realized I had missed alot of details that could help understand what im doing. This is for a cabinet that needs to swing out. Because of surrounding structure around the cabinet, having the cabinet sit on top of a cantilever arm that swings out at one end was the only solution I could see. If you look at the top view, the 6" X 4" plate needs to be connected to the axle, and the arms conect to the sides of the plate. The pivot point is offset because of the surrounding walls.Dont know if this helps. But next time Ill definitly be more detailed, maybe even take photographs.BTW - Im in NY.
Reply:Originally Posted by 12345678910what occurs to me is to put a shoulder on each side of the shaft, then do as you describe above, The shoulder will help set the correct spacing