Breaking a bead

admin

Breaking a bead is probably not the correct terminology but could you all give some guidance as to how to continue a bead that has previously been put down and cold, and make it look like a continuous bead. Whenever I break and come back to it later you can always tell where I left off and where I started.Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Reply:What I do, is take a die grinder with a cut off wheel. Feather out the stop. Start my next weld 1/2 to 3/4-inch a head of the stop, slide back to the stop, pause long enough for the ground out stop to fill, then get moving.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Continuing a bead might be the better description of your question.  Also, since you don't say what welding process you are using, I will say that my suggestion below is for stick.Always make sure to chip and brush the flux off of the end crater of the previous bead before trying to continue the bead.Generally speaking, for the starting point of the bead continuation, it is best to get out ahead of the end of the previous bead approximately 1/2" to 3/4" to start your new bead and as the new arc is established, move backwards onto the crater of the previous weld.  Try to carry the new puddle back onto the crater of the old bead but don't overshoot on top of the old bead, or you will get a pile up.And don't even think that you will always be able to disguise the continuation points every time, you may get close but will not do it perfectly every time.  Maybe after 20 years or so of doing it, but no time soon.
Reply:Sorry. Should of said MIG welding.Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Reply:Then you need to use CEP's method with the die grinder to remove a bit of metal in the tapering configuration he described, so you will have a void to fill in.But even so, you still need to begin your arc a little beyond where the old bead ended and as soon as you get the new arc going, back up onto the old weld and then begin moving forward again.I would even go so far as to suggest a little bit of preheat (with torch) to the immediate area where you will resume your bead before pulling the trigger.Always best if don't stop and let the metal get stone cold before you resume a bead anyhow. But there are sometimes reasons that can't be avoided, like running out of wire (but you checked that first before welding, right?).
Reply:I will give it a shot. I definitely keep an eye on the wire. I run into this problem when I'm alternating sides of my work to avoid heat distortion.Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Reply:Here is what it looks like when I feather my starts and stops with a die grinder, and cut off wheel. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Do you do the same for a fillet weld?Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Reply:If I want the welds to tie in real nice. It's a good habit to always grind / feather out your stops and starts.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400