Looking for some plumbing advice (water softener installation)

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This is not really related to welding, but I figured there's an abundance of knowledge on this forum, so why not ask? I bought an older home in the Phoenix area and I'm in the process of doing some upgrades. I'm currently working on the irrigation system and I'm planning on running a loop to the garage (I don't have a basement) so I can install water softener. There's a 1" main line on the east side of the house and that's the only point where I can tie in a loop or any fittings. The problem I'm running into is that I'm running out of room for everything I need on that one section of pipe going into the house. On that one line, I need a pressure vacuum breaker, soft water loop, pressure reducing valve, and if possible... I'd like to run a line to a second hose bib in the front of the house. The water pressure at the bib is 100psi and I've been told that it's too much. Therefor, I plan on installing a pressure reducing valve on the line going into the house as well. However, I'm getting mixed opinions about this. This is what I have drawn out. Let it be known, that this is NOT my area of expertise! Instead of placing the water softener bypass near the softener itself, you can see in the drawing that I have it at the beginning of the loop. Should there be a leak underground, I can cut off water to the entire loop. Is this a bad idea? I'm also confused about what size pipe to use for the loop because the main at the meter is 3/4, then it increases to 1" underground and into my home. My friend said I should use 1" copper pipe since my main is that size. Another guy said 3/4" pipe is sufficient. Is there anything I'm leaving out? Any thoughts? Your input is greatly appreciated! Attached ImagesLast edited by Skeeter Mcgee; 03-27-2014 at 06:47 PM.
Reply:If you'd added our location it would help. That rig in Alaska would be just asking for trouble with frozen pipes. Burpee on the other hand in Costa Rica wouldn't have those freeze issues.I've seen rigs like this done outside in freeze areas, but you have to be down well below the frost line and have it well insulated. Most were in some sort of concrete vault in the front yard..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWIf you'd added our location it would help. That rig in Alaska would be just asking for trouble with frozen pipes. Burpee on the other hand in Costa Rica wouldn't have those freeze issues.I've seen rigs like this done outside in freeze areas, but you have to be down well below the frost line and have it well insulated. Most were in some sort of concrete vault in the front yard.
Reply:Way too complex. Come out of the ground, add a shut off, tee off to the right for you vacuum breaker before your soft water loop, as you don't want to irrigate with soft and add the tee for the bib after that. Vacuum breaker only needs to sit higher than the bib/irrigation valves.Then add in your loop. I wouldn't add in the bypass set up, it is just going to add problems, and you won't use it. Use either soft copper, or PVC , or PE for the underground loop, no sweat fittings underground. Water softener a have a built in bypass for servicing. The bib looks fine. Be sure to add a steel stake (unitstrut) for the above ground portion, as it may be wobbly as it is. Where are you?
Reply:Hey now ! BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR !  Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:OK. It's 11000 feet  Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerWay too complex. Come out of the ground, add a shut off, tee off to the right for you vacuum breaker before your soft water loop, as you don't want to irrigate with soft and add the tee for the bib after that. Vacuum breaker only needs to sit higher than the bib/irrigation valves.Then add in your loop. I wouldn't add in the bypass set up, it is just going to add problems, and you won't use it. Use either soft copper, or PVC , or PE for the underground loop, no sweat fittings underground. Water softener a have a built in bypass for servicing. The bib looks fine. Be sure to add a steel stake (unitstrut) for the above ground portion, as it may be wobbly as it is. Where are you?