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I set up my new MM211 last night with the Spoolmate 100 gun. I'm currently using the machine with the 110 plug until I can get the right outlet for my 220 line.I believe the wire is .030 aluminum and I'm using 100% Argon. My first attempts weren't terrible, but I have a few questions:1. Is 1/8" stock too big for the machine while running on 110? I was having trouble getting things to melt and pool, even with the power set all the way up to 10. I'm new to this, but I'm pretty sure I wasn't getting spray transfer, just arc (bacon frying sound, not the nice hiss that all those fancy youtube guys seem to get).2. For some reason after welding for a while, my flow meter on my argon tank wouldn't go above 15 cfm. Its a brand new tank so I know its full. No matter where I set the dial on the front of the meter, it always stays at 15, even when I pull the trigger. Any ideas?3. I was making lots of splatter ... little molten balls of aluminum popping all over the place. I'm sure its because I don't have my settings correct and my form is most likely terrible (I'm pushing at a 15 degree angle and trying to keep an even work distance of half to three quarters of an inch). So, when getting splatter like that, which setting should I adjust first, and in which direction?Thanks guys!
Reply:I think that might be too much for the MM211 on 120v Power.I never tried it on 120v but I recall another Poster having the same problems on 120v.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:I too have a MM211 with spoolgun, and I'd say 1/8' aluminum is really pushing the capabilities for 110 - but at least it's on the chart. The book says the setting is 10/90, which would max it out. Aluminum sucks so much heat away from the weld, it's really difficult without the max settings. However, you didn't mention cleaning the work piece, I would also tend to believe your aluminum is dirty. I know when I looked here online, there are all kinds of comments about cleaning with a Stainless steel wire brush, not used for anything but aluminum, and then wiping down with Acetone. There are many other suggestions out there, but those seemed to make a difference for me.
Reply:Originally Posted by PMedic4I too have a MM211 with spoolgun, and I'd say 1/8' aluminum is really pushing the capabilities for 110 - but at least it's on the chart. The book says the setting is 10/90, which would max it out. Aluminum sucks so much heat away from the weld, it's really difficult without the max settings. However, you didn't mention cleaning the work piece, I would also tend to believe your aluminum is dirty. I know when I looked here online, there are all kinds of comments about cleaning with a Stainless steel wire brush, not used for anything but aluminum, and then wiping down with Acetone. There are many other suggestions out there, but those seemed to make a difference for me.
Reply:I have the MM211 and S/M100 as well...I have not used my S/M yet so I am looking fwd o seeing if this helped...oh and I only run on 220v here...Good luck and keep us posted..Miller 211 & Spoolmate 100Miller Diversion 165Miller Spectrum 875
Reply:What wire diameter and alloy are you using? The machine was not intended for 5356, 4043 only.Miller 350 LX TigrunnerMiller 350P w/XR-ProMiller 211 AutosetMiller Spot WelderLincoln 140Hypertherm Powermax45 plasmaBridgeport millAtlas 12X40 latheBewo cold sawWilton 7x12 horiz. band sawUnihydro 42 ton Iron worker
Reply:Originally Posted by MrSimonThanks for the comment. How does the machine do at 220 on the same material?Yup, I read a lot about cleaning the material. I must confess, after opening the box and getting it set up, I just HAD to try it out. I was welding on a very "clean" looking piece of angle, but I know that there could very well be contaminants. I will do the proper cleaning and try again.
Reply:"Clean aluminum" is deceiving. Just because it's "clean" free from dirt, oil paint etc.... Doesn't mean welding it is going to work successfully. You need to grind or sand down the thin and unseen oxidation or anodized layer first! Many types of aluminum come anodized and that does NOT conduct electricity. Plus, 120v AC mains is too low for what you want to weld.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller 625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArc"Clean aluminum" is deceiving. Just because it's "clean" free from dirt, oil paint etc.... Doesn't mean welding it is going to work successfully. You need to grind or sand down the thin and unseen oxidation or anodized layer first! Many types of aluminum come anodized and that does NOT conduct electricity. Plus, 120v AC mains is too low for what you want to weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Wut?Certainly you jest-
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcJest about "wut?". Spit it out.... Your point, that is.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1I highlighted it in bold..You stated that Anodized aluminum does not conduct electricity.
Reply:Super arc is right on. aluminum oxide sand on sand paper is oxidized aluminum. The gemstone called a Ruby is oxidized Aluminum. The High voltage arc on a tig is there for two purposes One to develop an ion trail for the low voltage current to travel on and Two, the high temperatures developed in the Ion trail make the oxide expand so rapidly that it pops off of the surface. Think of the oxide layer as a super thin coating of glass. Mac
Reply:What?Now after 40+ years I learn that I CAN'T WELD ANODIZED ALUMINUM.All I'm going to say is that there is sure a lot of BS put out on these boards by posters who don't have a clue.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIWhat?Now after 40+ years I learn that I CAN'T WELD ANODIZED ALUMINUM.All I'm going to say is that there is sure a lot of BS put out on these boards by posters who don't have a clue
Reply:SuperArc,You are so full of it I can't even imagine.I've welded anodized aluminum (mig and tig) WITHOUT REMOVING THE ANODIZED COATING for longer than you could spell welding.There are thousands of full towers, t-tops, radar arches,etc that have been welded up successfully over the years. Guess what. They're anodized and the coating was NOT removed prior to welding.The problem with welding anodized aluminum stems from the difference in melting points between the oxide coating (anodizing) and the base metal, not a lack of electrical conductivity.A work lead attached directly to anodized aluminum works just fine. I don't think too many owners of a million dollar sportfisherman would appreciate having all their protection (anodizing) ground off every place a work lead was attached.Actually, your BS suggestion about grinding the coating off presents more issues than the anodizing. Grinding/sanding discs contain silicon which embeds itself in the base metal, causing issues with welding aluminum.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:"That's important for us "welders", don't ya think?"You may consider yourself a "welder", but I can assure you, you don't know jack sh1t about welding anodized aluminum.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Gotta go with SuperArc on this one. HARD ANODIZE PER MIL-A-8625 TYPE III, CLASS 2/Dichromate sealer.There are some alum surfaces that are anodized and sealed not only to prevent thermal, but also electrical conductivity. In this case the OP would be well advised to correctly break the surface before attempting to weld on 115volts. At least strip the area of the ground clamp.Tunnelvision, What do you mean that this machine is only designed to run 4043 and not 5356. Is that in the manual? If so, I will never buy a Miller product again.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIII"That's important for us "welders", don't ya think?"You may consider yourself a "welder", but I can assure you, you don't know jack Sh1t about welding anodized aluminum.
Reply:I guess that's why us guys that weld anodized aluminum all the time "make the big bucks".It's not weldable.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Some interesting reading. http://www.weldcraft.com/2009/04/tig...ized-aluminum/Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Never said it was "impossible." Welding THROUGH the oxide layer is possible, however you have to BREAK THROUGH the anodized coating first. That's all I'm saying to you. You are apparently misunderstanding the laws of physics, chemistry and probably a little bit of electrical theory (which is again, physics). You claim you're welding anodized aluminum, which, I don't doubt. What you fail to acknowledge and comprehend is HOW youre able to accomplish that task. You're "breaking through" the anodized layer without your apparent knowledge and understanding just how electricity travels through a conductor or fails to travel through an insulator. One can swallow a Twinkie also, but you must first remove the wrapper if you want your stomach to digest it. ...and oooohh, you really make big bucks? Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller 625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:I think your problem could be one or more of these problems.>Not enough power on 110volts. >Dirty metal. Clean surface is always preferential, whether it be chemicaly stripped or mechanically.>Bad ground.>Bad or not enough gas. You could have a restriction in the torch if you can only get 15cfh out of it.>Incorrect wire speed.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:That's OK SuperArc,You keep eating your twinkies, and I'll keep on welding anodized aluminum (without grinding off the anodizing).Now that you've got me fired up, here's one for you to try Mr SuperArc:Go to your local box store and a six foot length of aluminum service cable.Strip out the aluminum conductors.Take those 6' lengths to your local anodizing facility and have them anodized.Bring them home and attach one length to a hot leg on your 120V service.Attach the other leg to the neutral on your 120V sevice.Now hold one lead in your right hand, the other in your left hand.You'll be perfectly safe because anodized aluminum doesn't conduct electricity, RIGHT.Tell that to the big guy when you get to the pearly gates. "I thought anodized aluminum wouldn't conduct electricity."PS. Your "theory" may apply if the anodizing was 1/8" thick. It's not on the material we use for welding.If getting the service cable conductor anodized is too much trouble, just use a couple lengths of anodized aluminum rods. Take an aligator clip and attach the hot lead to one and an aligator clip to the neutral. Hold rods in each hand. Plug in.Copper turns green when it oxidizes. Do you want to hold two oxidized copper conductors in your hands when power is applied?Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIThat's OK SuperArc,You keep eating your twinkies, and I'll keep on welding anodized aluminum (without grinding off the anodizing).Now that you've got me fired up, here's one for you to try Mr SuperArc:Go to your local box store and a six foot length of aluminum service cable.Strip out the aluminum conductors.Take those 6' lengths to your local anodizing facility and have them anodized.Bring them home and attach one length to a hot leg on your 120V service.Attach the other leg to the neutral on your 120V sevice.Now hold one lead in your right hand, the other in your left hand.You'll be perfectly safe because anodized aluminum doesn't conduct electricity, RIGHT.Tell that to the big guy when you get to the pearly gates. "I thought anodized aluminum wouldn't conduct electricity."PS. Your "theory" may apply if the anodizing was 1/8" thick. It's not on the material we use for welding.If getting the service cable conductor anodized is too much trouble, just use a couple lengths of anodized aluminum rods. Take an aligator clip and attach the hot lead to one and an aligator clip to the neutral. Hold rods in each hand. Plug in.Copper turns green when it oxidizes. Do you want to hold two oxidized copper conductors in your hands when power is applied?Anvil,I'm 64, and if you'd checked my profile, you'd know that.Started welding aluminum in the mid 60's with a Heli-Arc (Linde) welder that belonged to Hercules Powder Company (Hopewell, VA). I was building our fuel cells for our race boats.Been around "marine fabrication" all my life (even during a stint in the military). One of my best friends is Edison Irving who's dad owns Pipewelders (Hq in Ft. Lauderdale, FL). They were the "pioneers" in developing the "bump welding" technique for welding anodized aluminum. In the last 30 years they've built hundreds/thousands of anodized marine towers without "grinding off the anodizing".In previous posts I've explained the process in detail and even referenced an article in Metalforming magazine that was done in conjunction with Miller Electric.I'm not going to sit back and have Mr SuperArc throw out some theory that he learned hin HS shop class and accept it as gospel when I've been dealing with the stuff for my whole life.If Mr. SuperArc wants to test his theory about non-conductivity, I'll be more than happy to send him a couple short lengths of bright finish (heavier anodizing than brushed) marine tube to try my previously described experiment.As I said before, sanding/grinding with discs, creates more issues than it solves. I use carbide burrs for edge prep rather than a grinding wheel. This is most often used when the aluminum has been plasma cut. Those oxides generated (from a plasma cut) will mess up a tig weld.The problem people encounter with trying to weld anodized aluminum comes from the difference in the melting point of the oxide layer vs the base metal not electrical conductivity. The thickness of the oxidizing DOES NOT prevent establishment of an arc.The "crap grade" aluminum found at your local box store is most often NOT anodized. It consists of a low grade aluminum that has had a laquer finish applied to prevent further oxidation. An arc will broach it but it makes a mess as the finish burns off.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Yes, aluminum oxide is an insulator. However, so is air. And we all know it is posible to arc through air. High frequency helps and once you've established an arc, the rules change as well. Oxidization on aluminum is not a perfect insulator (technicaly nothing is...maybe diamond), so it more than possible to weld on.Keep in mind those that weld on boats often have to deal with owners that worry about scratched up rails etc.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArc"Clean aluminum" is deceiving. Just because it's "clean" free from dirt, oil paint etc.... Doesn't mean welding it is going to work successfully. You need to grind or sand down the thin and unseen oxidation or anodized layer first! Many types of aluminum come anodized and that does NOT conduct electricity. Plus, 120v AC mains is too low for what you want to weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIICon-Fuse,Thanks for shedding light on the subject.The "exception" I took was his "matter of fact" statement shown above.The above statement has two glaring errors. One is the recommendation to sand/grind the anodizing off and the second is that anodized aluminum does not conduct electricity and therefore is not weldable without removing the oxide.Frankly, the statement makes me question whether he has ever really welded any anodized aluminum.Theoretically, a dry tig glove is a pretty good insulator, but show me a tig welder who somewhere along the line hasn't been bit by a HiFreq arc, and I'll show you a tig welder who hasn't welded much.Good comment about "scratches" on boat rails/towers, etc. I've had to cut out and replace entire sections because of a couple scratches. Sure as heck am not going to be taking my grinder to it.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcAgain, Googe it. Anodized aluminum doesn't conduct electricity unless you break through the anodized layer. Scratch, grind, polish, whatever you want to call it, however you do it, like it or not, you must break the oxidized (anodized) layer to conduct electricity through anodized aluminum. I'm sorry you're not understanding and comprehending that fact. I forgive you. Anger management?
Reply:Originally Posted by ANVILUmm how old are you?
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonGetting back the the original post, I still think it would be advisable to grind that fecking crud off and move on.
Reply:paint is also an insulator and many times thicker than the anodized layer. Seems I am able to strike an arc most of the time through it If I wanted to(I don't). Yes, it burns away from the arc, but the micro fissures that can be found in the paint enable the electricity to pass through. this seems like a rather silly argument. Debating something over a technicality. I would have to side with test...if anodized aluminum will not conduct electricity, then man up and hook up and prove your point. I was at a gunshow where a ruger dealer was demonstrating the safety of the blackhawk by using a loaded .45 to drive nails like a hammer. He destroyed the blackhawk in the process, and proved it indeed would not fire loaded to the gills with boolits. The transfer bar system is the safest system of its kind. If you do decide to hook up, take a video to prove it. other wise you lost the argument.Now in the future, you could avoid the trouble by stating the anodized layer tends to give some trouble newbe welders and may need higher end equipment to full be able to overcome the limitations it places on welding aluminum. It is best to remove the layer before welding if you find it is causing you trouble. Sanding is not an effective method as it imbeds silica and may contain more aluminum oxide particles that you are trying to remove.Ahh who am I kidding? like you are going to listen. I am just stirring the pot having a little funLast edited by Scott Young; 03-19-2012 at 05:26 PM.
Reply:The electrical insulative effect of a material are measured by a property known as dielectric strength.A thin layer of anodizing on aluminum lacks the dielectric strength to prevent the arc from a TIG welding electrode to bridge the gap. It will be enough to prevent lower voltages from bridging the gap, though. I'd definitely recommend against testing the dieletric strength of a few ten thousandths of an inch of anodizing against household current.A good example is, the difference between wire rated at 300V and wire rated at 600V being either the thickness or the dielectric strength of the insulator. The insulator on the 300V rated wire will begin to break down at higher voltages and little arcs will bridge adjacent wires. Eventually the insulation fails entirely, just like anodizing subjected to TIG welding voltages.Check it out, I typed all that without calling anybody names.JoeMiller Syncrowave 200Mac/Miller MW130 MIGKalamazoo bandsawCincinnati Arrow 500 VMCColchester Dominion 15 x 36 lathe with 2 axis DRO
Reply:First you told someone this (post #7): Originally Posted by SundownIIIFor something like that, sand/grind the anodizing off before you weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by scudzukiThe electrical insulative effect of a material are measured by a property known as dielectric strength.A thin layer of anodizing on aluminum lacks the dielectric strength to prevent the arc from a TIG welding electrode to bridge the gap. It will be enough to prevent lower voltages from bridging the gap, though. I'd definitely recommend against testing the dieletric strength of a few ten thousandths of an inch of anodizing against household current.A good example is, the difference between wire rated at 300V and wire rated at 600V being either the thickness or the dielectric strength of the insulator. The insulator on the 300V rated wire will begin to break down at higher voltages and little arcs will bridge adjacent wires. Eventually the insulation fails entirely, just like anodizing subjected to TIG welding voltages.Check it out, I typed all that without calling anybody names.Joe
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIII I'll be more than happy to send him a couple short lengths of bright finish (heavier anodizing than brushed) marine tube to try my previously described experiment.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcAgain, Googe it.
Reply:Originally Posted by ANVILWow! Do you always throw out insults at people when you yourself are incorrect about certain facts? SuperArc is right about anodized. Take it down a notch there, would ya buddy?
Reply:Well mr SuperArc,I am really glad you found that post. If others will read it, it will shed light on why I told that poster IN THAT SITUATION, to grind the anodizing off. He was dealing with a fitting which had gone thru a color anodize process. The dyes used for that type anodizing will cause problems not caused by clear anodizing.I've been welding aluminum since 1965. In 1989, Ed Edison taught me the "bump welding technique" for single pass welding anodized aluminum and I've used it ever since. In 1989 Ed was running the Pipewelder facility at Cape May, NJ.That article is good also because it gets into more detail regarding the "bump welding" technique and provides a link to the Metalforming magazine article.I hope everyone interested in welding anodized aluminum will read that thread as well as the links.PS mr. SuperArc,It's not so much that I "attack" people who disagree with me but rather I make it a point of bluntly correcting posters who put out pure garbage which they know nothing about. For every tidbit of useful information put out in a forum such as this, there is as much or more "wrong information" put out by people who don't have a clue about what they're talking about. (If the shoe fits, wear it). Some of it goes back to the "matter of fact" way a poster puts out his bad info. Then, when confronted with correct information, the dumbazz wants to argue his case.Brett,We deal primarily with only two types of anodized tube. The brushed finish is more common (and cheaper) and looks almost like a mill finish aluminum. Feels a little rough when you run your hand over it. It's more commonly used because it doesn't show minor scratches as much as the bright finish. Then we have the "bright finish" which looks almost like SS. The bright finish is welded the same way as the brushed, but the anodized coating seems just slightly thicker (I have no way of measuring the thickness of the anodizing). We can get either the bright or brushed in tube, I beams, angle, flats, or ovals. (the ovals make good ladder rungs since it's not quite as hard on the feet as the round tube)Last edited by SundownIII; 03-20-2012 at 01:50 AM.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:ZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzz...... I'm bored. Moving on. Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller 625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIWell mr SuperArc,IIt's not so much that I "attack" people who disagree with me but rather I make it a point of bluntly correcting posters who put out pure garbage which they know nothing about. For every tidbit of useful information put out in a forum such as this, there is as much or more "wrong information" put out by people who don't have a clue about what they're talking about. (If the shoe fits, wear it). Some of it goes back to the "matter of fact" way a poster puts out his bad info. Then, when confronted with correct information, the dumbazz wants to argue his case.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIThat's OK SuperArc,You keep eating your twinkies, and I'll keep on welding anodized aluminum (without grinding off the anodizing).Now that you've got me fired up, here's one for you to try Mr SuperArc:Go to your local box store and a six foot length of aluminum service cable.Strip out the aluminum conductors.Take those 6' lengths to your local anodizing facility and have them anodized.Bring them home and attach one length to a hot leg on your 120V service.Attach the other leg to the neutral on your 120V sevice.Now hold one lead in your right hand, the other in your left hand.You'll be perfectly safe because anodized aluminum doesn't conduct electricity, RIGHT.Tell that to the big guy when you get to the pearly gates. "I thought anodized aluminum wouldn't conduct electricity."PS. Your "theory" may apply if the anodizing was 1/8" thick. It's not on the material we use for welding.If getting the service cable conductor anodized is too much trouble, just use a couple lengths of anodized aluminum rods. Take an aligator clip and attach the hot lead to one and an aligator clip to the neutral. Hold rods in each hand. Plug in.Copper turns green when it oxidizes. Do you want to hold two oxidized copper conductors in your hands when power is applied?
Reply:Originally Posted by imaldiniThat is awesome. Sundownill, you're great.
Reply:Originally Posted by LlundbergSundown is known as an absolute tool who doesn't seem to know his a_s from his elbow. I have long since killfiled him, it didn't take long to figure out that whatever he says - go the opposite and you're be fine.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIWell mr SuperArc,Brett,We deal primarily with only two types of anodized tube. The brushed finish is more common (and cheaper) and looks almost like a mill finish aluminum. Feels a little rough when you run your hand over it. It's more commonly used because it doesn't show minor scratches as much as the bright finish. Then we have the "bright finish" which looks almost like SS. The bright finish is welded the same way as the brushed, but the anodized coating seems just slightly thicker (I have no way of measuring the thickness of the anodizing). We can get either the bright or brushed in tube, I beams, angle, flats, or ovals. (the ovals make good ladder rungs since it's not quite as hard on the feet as the round tube)
Reply:Let get back to the OP question for a minute, I wish some with more experience than me with a Miller 211mm came in but they are too busy having fun with it...I was in the same situation as the OP with only access to 120V single phase power, I try some steel but my weld seem to cold, since I can't take care of my power requirement immediately I go for the simple and faster option, I install a 5-20R receptacle with a dedicate 20 fused circuit and buy the Miller 219-259 5-20P adaptor. It helps and I didn't have to push further this time to get the job done. Maybe it's just what he needs to obtain better result welding Aluminum on 120V with good prep...One thing I can tell from the mouth of a "Try-it-all" dreaming of been a "Do-it-all" ASAP before I die....This machine is another animal on 220V single phase, all your frustration goes away and things get a lot more simple.....Well it's what I found out but I'm just the average guy poo pooing things together not a rocket scientist using chemical formula.On a final taught, there is plenty of very nice and smart people here doing amazing weld and helping others sharing their knowledge and SundownIII is one of those, yep I know sometime the dam bas...Is very rude like an old lion but hey I can deal with that!PS: English is not my primary language so I apologise for not been perfect...Miller MM211Esab Mini Arc 161LTSEsab Handy Plasma 380Duck tapeTy- rapKool-aid
Reply:Originally Posted by OldSkullLet get back to the OP question for a minute, I wish some with more experience than me with a Miller 211mm came in but they are too busy having fun with it...I was in the same situation as the OP with only access to 120V single phase power, I try some steel but my weld seem to cold, since I can't take care of my power requirement immediately I go for the simple and faster option, I install a 5-20R receptacle with a dedicate 20 fused circuit and buy the Miller 219-259 5-20P adaptor. It helps and I didn't have to push further this time to get the job done. Maybe it's just what he needs to obtain better result welding Aluminum on 120V with good prep...One thing I can tell from the mouth of a "Try-it-all" dreaming of been a "Do-it-all" ASAP before I die....This machine is another animal on 220V single phase, all your frustration goes away and things get a lot more simple.....Well it's what I found out but I'm just the average guy poo pooing things together not a rocket scientist using chemical formula.On a final taught, there is plenty of very nice and smart people here doing amazing weld and helping others sharing their knowledge and SundownIII is one of those, yep I know sometime the dam bas...Is very rude like an old lion but hey I can deal with that!PS: English is not my primary language so I apologise for not been perfect...
Reply:Brett,Funny that you would post a reply to "that" poster.After the comment, I went back and checked his profile and read his posts.I started to reply to his comment, but felt that others may look down on me for "going after the handicapped".Talk about bringing a Swiss Army Knife to a gunfight.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Old skull- you didn't need to buy the 5-20 adapter- a dedicated 120v line is all you needed using the 5-15p that came with the machine.The Duty Cycle is such that the 5-15 (15amp) plug is plenty.The adapter is available since there are 20 amp 5-20 Receptacles out there and this is just another convenience the MVP system provides. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:16:03