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I'd love any feedback, positive or negative, about these beads. My only experience with stick is from a couple of adult CC classes about 5 years ago. Not a stick since until I just picked up an old tombstone Idealarc 250. After screwing around with horrible results for about 10 minutes, I found Rick V's beautiful photo essay from 2010. That made all the diff.6013 3/32" DC negative (straight)3/16" thick 3" square tube for a piece of metalLincoln Idealarc 250 at 70 amps the long one closest was the first, then the far one, the the middle then the two stubbies:[IMG][/IMG]a little hotter 75 amps:[IMG][/IMG]
Reply:Got my drink!As always for us first timers they need work but I will say that they look better than mine (that I won't post) after a couple pounds of 6011 dc and 7018.From my eye it doesn't look like you laid em down one after another and might've let the steel cool. If so, good.If not, it's a must to get consistent results.Good job and keep playing.How do you know the blacksmith's dog? When you hollar at him he makes a bolt for the door!
Reply:Keep it up and I'd dump those 3/32" rods and go with the 1/8." Yeah I know many people subscribe to the fact (myth in my opinion) that the 3/32" rods are easier to learn with. I actually think they are a bit harder. If you breath just a little too heavy, you really see that once straight line with 3/32", go wavy all over your steel! Try laying each and every bead about 50% over the last bead. That way, you use your last bead as a guide to keep them straight. Also, for practice metal, I used to dump the steel in a bucket of water just so I could weld quicker without the steel warping so much. Obviously, for a real project you'd NEVER want to dump your hot metal into water. However for practice scrap metal, water is your friend! With a little practice, 6013's make anyone look like a pro. It just doesn't penetrate for squat. For sheet metal at around 3/16" thick, stick with the DC- (straight) polarity. For the thicker stuff, go with DC+ (reverse) because it tends to penetrate deeper into the base metal. When you get better, try to master some 6011 (which I hate, but it's a necessary "evil"). Then go for some 7018's. Finally, if you can find some 7014 or 7024, try it! Those two put 6013 to shame as far as appearance goes! ...Just my opinion. Nice job!Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller 625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Thanks guys. I dunked after most of the beads but a couple places I left it hot and tried restarting and tying in where I left off and one of the beads I just ran without dunking. I will get some 1/8 cuz yes it took just a tad of pull from my stinger cable or I got a bit out of position and woaoaoaoaoao off course or long arc. I just picked up a 5 pound box from home depot. I played with polarity and ac at first just to see before I got the amps dialed in a bit. I'm going to try that again now that I have a better range.
Reply:people tell beginners to start with 6013. to me its a mistake. learn the staples which are 6010-11 and 7018. 6013 is a light gauge (to me 3/16 isnt light gauge sheet metal)..sheetmetal rod, if thats what you build then learn it..but i think too many waste there time with 6013. now if you are pipefitter, apologies..btw to me yer beads look cold..that last little squiggle being the only one i see with decent tiein at the toe..
Reply:Hey man, if you want to learn with 6013 then go ahead. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.I've burned loads of 6013 and they are a great running rod. Most people don't have the patience to learnthey're quirks and just use those horrible 6010/11 things for almost everything. Sparklers is all they are.If you want a really good 6013 weld with 3/32, crank it up to 90 Amps (Transformer) or 80 Amps (Inverter) anddon't exceed a 15 degree drag angle. Be very careful to stay ahead of the puddle or you will get slag traps.Don't worry about arc length at first, just let the rod dig in and just drag it. Get some 1/4" plate to run beads on.Alot easier than tube. Don't be afraid to come back with progress pics Support Bacteria - It's the only culture some people have!
Reply:Thanks on all the suggestions and comments. I had no good reason for the 6013 except I have a lot of 1/8" square tubing and some 3/16 plate to do up. My little HH 140 is marginal with flux core, and I came into the hunchback tombstone recently and wanted to go back to stick so that's where I started. When I took my CC classes we ran very little 6013 mostly 6010 / 11 and 7018 by the boxfull. Since I don't have (or want) a rod oven, yesterday I picked up 5 pounds of Hobart 6011 and 7014 to try out, and spent a couple hours burning 6011 on that same piece over and over again, trying different settings. Sorry no pics - the piece is a mess, but I was burning straight lines finally again (Thanks SuperArc) One thing I don't like about 6011 is the slag is a lot harder to remove even though there's less of it. Maybe it's my settings. By comparison to 6013, the 6011 digs like an armadillo.Was getting arc blow when I was getting to the end of the tube. At first didn't recognize it but knew something was messed up. Figured it out later.I will try bringing the amps up on the 6013. I didn't think they looked cold, but this is why I asked and I really appreciate the eyeballing as my ability to see undercutting, cold, hot, etc. is not very good (obviously)
Reply:RodJ..... here is a link for some cool demos of different rods. 6011, 6013, 7018 and 7024 are in this video. I think you'll like it. In fact, after you watch this video, I highly suggest you watch ALL of the stick videos by "Jody" on "weldingtipsandtricks.com." Enjoy....Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller 625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Super, I've read a lot of Jody's stuff but I missed that video, thanks for pointing it out. Picked up 50 or 60 pounds of sheet and plate cutoff at my local metal supplier for coupons, so will have some material to work on to improve. Thanks again.Rod
Reply:RodJ- Your last pic looked warmer than the one above. 75 looks like its getting in the ball park heatwise. Try 80 and then 85 and then 90 but do everything else the same. Take a flashlight and look inside the tube and see what the backside looks like where the beads are run. When you see signs that the inside surface was wet (liquid) - that was a little too much current. stick welding is quite relaxing I think. Unless its a really expensive part you are about to weld - then its not !
Reply:I dunked after most of the beads but a couple places I left it hot and tried restarting and tying in where
Reply:Thanks again for all the resources and comments. I set aside the 6013 and manned up with some 6011. These are after burning a couple pounds for practice till they started looking like something resembling a weld bead. To my eye they look a little flat, maybe too hot, but since my 6013 beads were cold, I decided to err on the side of too much heat. But looking at the edge of the bead I wonder if I'm getting cold lap??This is Hobart 6011 1/8" rods run flat at 120 amps DC+ (Idealarc 250). Plate is 3/16". I cooled the plate down between each bead. There's a 1/8" stub for a sense of scale. They were run from left to right, in that order.I'd appreciate any comments or suggestions to improve. Oh, and I was using sort of a whip/step with the rod. Forward then quick back to the front of the puddle, hold it a beat or so to fill in, then whip forward and back to the puddle again. Thanks again and I hope this thread helps some other guys trying to get dialed in.Another view:Last edited by RodJ; 03-22-2012 at 12:02 AM.
Reply:Not bad at all. With more practice your consistency will improve and you will get a more consistent distance between the dimes and a similar size. Each "dime" is when you stepped back and filled and the distance between the "dimes" is how far forward you moved before you stopped when you stepped back the next time.Now run beads half on half off the ones you just ran so they over lap. This lets you work on the same basic skills you will need to do filets on lap and fillet joints. You can keep stacking the beads over and over cooling between the beads.Below are a few chunks of "practice" metal for someone I was helping off my scrap pile to give you an idea. This will let you get the most time running basic beads and use the least amount of material to save you money before you move on to joints. Repetition is the key. You need to do this over and over and over and over... until it's second nature and you do all this without thinking about it. The only way is to burn lots of rod. Attached Images.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWEach "dime" is when you stepped back and filled and the distance between the "dimes" is how far forward you moved before you stopped when you stepped back the next time.
Reply:Just had a buddy of mine just give me about 5lbs of 6013 for doing some repairs on his dump truck tailgate today. Maybe I will fire the welder up and burn a few.Will Supports Autism Awareness My ToysBobCat 225 PLusMillermatic 130Miller Spectrum 300 CutmateEverlast Power Tig 185 Micro April is Autism Month . |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:16:02