Sanitary/Food Grade Welding General Info. . .

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Could anyone provide any general info on sanitary/food grade welding? I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for. . .I will take anything from tips to requirements.I am looking at TIG welding 304SS in a brewery application (anything from external repairs to new brewery piping and equipment). . .I completed a two-year ATA in Welding Technology and I have a little experience welding stainless steel (more experience with carbon steel) so I'm not a complete newb, but since I have no industry experience with food-grade welding I don't want to just assume the only things I need to worry about are proper filler metal selection and quality welds. I have done general (external brewery equipment repairs and equipment stands) and decorative (tasting room decorations, etc.) for them for a while now, but there is now an opportunity to expand and I would like to get on board. . .Thanks for the help!!!Last edited by atomicjoe23; 05-07-2014 at 06:16 PM.
Reply:From what I know which isn't much 316 has the highest corrosion resistance. Good luck sounds like a sweet gig Thermal arc 211iCk flex-loc 150 & 130Clamps, saws & grindersHarbor freight 80 amp inverter
Reply:joe23; are you back purging on piping? make sure the filler is compatible for food service.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Here's a good place to start.  Going to cost you a few bucks if you buy; which you should do if you're serious about doing a lot of sanitary work.  But, in a pinch, you might search the internet for an out-of-date copy that someone has posted(maybe not legal?)https://www.aws.org/w/a/technical/d18/Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:A big concern with food service work is being able to properly clean the pieces, this means no gaps, no porosity, no sugaring, no little nooks and crannies for fuzz to start growing.
Reply:Steep learning curve there if you have never done it before. Keeping it clean is a whole new ball game. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWe offer correct, cheap and fast. Pick two.Weldanpower G800XMT 304Syncrowave 250Millermatic 135Maxstar 91Heliwelder 4A/DDR 224/HPA/BHFT Plasma
Reply:Originally Posted by docwelderjoe23; are you back purging on piping? make sure the filler is compatible for food service.
Reply:Thanks for the tips guys. . . Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doHere's a good place to start.  Going to cost you a few bucks if you buy; which you should do if you're serious about doing a lot of sanitary work.  But, in a pinch, you might search the internet for an out-of-date copy that someone has posted(maybe not legal?)https://www.aws.org/w/a/technical/d18/
Reply:Originally Posted by TTnicksocalInterested in this as well... I know its required for stainless piping to be back purged with argon to prevent sugaring, but what about stainless butt joints on plate. how do you prevent sugaring? lap joints only on plate? or create some complex back purge setup for plate?
Reply:Or..... http://www.ckworldwide.com/purge_chamber.htmSent from my iPhone using TapatalkWe offer correct, cheap and fast. Pick two.Weldanpower G800XMT 304Syncrowave 250Millermatic 135Maxstar 91Heliwelder 4A/DDR 224/HPA/BHFT Plasma
Reply:tube welding is relatively easy, as long as you know how to read a tape measure. fitup is key! after that, its all easy, assuming you have this expensive equipment to use:orbital saw. band-saw, cold-cut, or anything else won't "cut it". not strait anyway."cutting blocks". very expensive, but guide your sawzall or band-saw straitish for cuts in position. you need to buy one for each pipe size you are working with.the welding is easy after fitup. tack your parts fast and light! no heavy tacks! then, start your purge. the length of pipe, flow-rate, size of pipe, etc dictate how long you need to purge before welding. start purge at low-point, as argon sits lower than air. start welding at point of purge. I prefer to walk the cup, as it keeps me uniform and constant as far as speed goes. if you don't see little stars dancing around in the puddle, you aren't getting full pen. if not using pedal machine, NEVER, EVER leave a fish eye, which means don't stop the welding while you have a puddle going. if you don't know how, you need to learn how to "tail off"bosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:Should look similar to this inside. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWe offer correct, cheap and fast. Pick two.Weldanpower G800XMT 304Syncrowave 250Millermatic 135Maxstar 91Heliwelder 4A/DDR 224/HPA/BHFT Plasma
Reply:Thanks again for the additional tips guys!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by WTFnOObThere is a product called Solar Flux that will prevent sugaring on the back side. However, it can only be used on surfaces that will be accessible after welding for cleaning purposes. Creating various purge blocks, or some creative use of masking tape will also work. Also, when doing this type of work, weld certifications or coupon samples may also be required by the customer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:atomicjoe23,Our company specializes in stainless steel food grade type work. Some important things to know are you MUST use a back purging gas to keep the weld from sugaring. If you do not this will lead to contamination and pit corrosion in the weld. In most cases we are required to polish the weld out afterwards to create a smooth finish. Some companies will accept orbital welds being left in or depending on the application, they will allow you to leave a weld in if it is smooth. There is a strong learning curve and it can be expensive. If you are interested in outsourcing, please feel free to contact us.Our website is listed below.http://www.andronstainless.com/