noob - stick welding troubles

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Hi, I used to be a really good welder, but haven't welded much in 10 years. I have a lincoln 180 amp AC buzzbox stick welder. I'm working on rewelding some joints on a motorcycle frame. I know this isn't the best machine to weld a frame, but it's all I have right now.I actually used to be a very good welder, with TIG and MIG, but have never been more than a passable stick welder.Still, my current welds are horrid. I had to quit yesterday because they were so bad. Will have to grind several out and reweld.Here's my problem: I had to turn the machine down to 60 amps to avoid burning through the tube. I'm running 6013 rod at 3/32". With this set up, I was getting lots of what I think are called "inclusions" in the weld - a gap in the weld bead that is full of slag. I cannot successfully weld over this gap, it just has a new gap in the same spot. I assume because the slag cannot escape through the new weld puddle w/o creating a new gap.I think my problems are:1) too low of an amperage for this rod. I was having better luck at 70 amps. Should I switch to 1/16" rod at 60 amps?2) I'm probably not very steady with my weave pattern. Should I be weaving much at all? I had slightly better luck drawing little circles instead of a smily-face weave pattern. Instead should I be mostly dragging the rod straight w/very little weave? I also had better luck with a short arc - should I be trying to push the rod into the puddle even more? Maybe I'm trying to make too wide of a weld, should be trying for a narrower bead. Wish I had a TIG....hey, it's only money, right!?Going to the store today for 1/16" rod and lots of grinding discs! Any help you can provide?
Reply:PM a member here named Super Arc, he builds bridges with a buzzbox and 6013s.Longevity 160sx Lincoln 140 miglincoln magnum spoolgunVictor torch and regulators
Reply:My honest advice? Just walk away from this project before something happens and you or someone else gets hurt or killed.6013 is a pretty out-dated welding process and today, bike frames are all migged or tigged. Even when done right, a 6013 weld is very weak, and "brittle". It'll break like glass with a large enough impact.I know that I wouldn't want to ride a bike that could come apart with one good sized pothole. Not trying to ruin your fun or anything, but you'd be WAY better off taking this to your local welding shop and having someone tig it up for you.[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Originally Posted by Lanse6013 is a pretty out-dated welding process and today, bike frames are all migged or tigged. Even when done right, a 6013 weld is very weak, and "brittle". It'll break like glass with a large enough impact.
Reply:I would switch to 6011 3/32 because it will work down to much lower current, around 40 Amps.  Sounds counter-intuitive, because 6011 generally penetrates much better than 6013, however you have to run 6013 at a much higher current - a current that will generally blow through thin tubing - to avoid flux inclusions.  The low end of the recommended current range for 6013 is probably too high for the thickness of the metal you are welding, notwithstanding the common wisdom that 6013 "was developed for fast welding of sheet metal."So I would recommend 6011 at low current.  Practice on scrap first and do some testing of weld strength using a big hammer.IF you had DC available, I would recommend 6010 DCEN to further moderate the penetration, but if I only had an AC welder available I'd certainly try it at low current on scrap of similar thickness to your tubing.  Certainly worth a try.Regards,Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by hogPM a member here named Super Arc, he builds bridges with a buzzbox and 6013s.
Reply:Originally Posted by ANVILArguing with you hog is like running in the special Olympics.  You might win the argument, but you're still a retard.
Reply:Originally Posted by RodJAre your comments based on your experience, testing
Reply:Originally Posted by dsissonI'm running 6013
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPI've done some testing with 6013. All be it the fillet break test is some what primitive! 3-blows with a 4lb hammer, where as the same tests with 7018 that has never seen an oven took 18-blows before breaking, and 7018 right out of the oven took 23 blows to break. But 6013 did pass a bend test. So I'd say 6013 has no impact qualities at all.
Reply:Originally Posted by RodJI"m throwing out all my 6013!!
Reply:I'm with Lanse on this one. I used to tour on bikes at 75-80 mph all day. Wondering about whether that weld was going to hold would have taken all the fun out of it. Scares me, and I'm fearless.Miller Bobcat 250Syncrowave  200Millermatic 252Spoolmatic 30ASpectrum 625 X-TremeMaxstar 150SVictor O/A torchesDewalt angle grindersWelded on/off for over 40 years.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPDon't do that! Have you seen this thread?http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=19742
Reply:Originally Posted by hogThat your best shot Dikbreath ?