CHUCKS AND Spindle taper: MT2

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Hey JoeHobart, thanks for the comments under the "drill press" thread about MT2 but could you add some depth to that about the different methods of holding things in the drill press and what thought process should be used. ie when do I choose a chuck or how do I get the chuck out and how is the taper used; are there different tapers and is that a function of design or choice? What questions do I need to ask before buying? Thanks for all the good knowledgeRaymond
Reply:Most of the current crop of drill presses are all made in Asia.Most of them have #2 Morse taper quills.Ro remove the chuck etc. Lock the Quill down. You will see a slot in the quill. Rotate the chuck until you can see the slot all the way through. What you see is the tang of the MT arborSee photo; Attached Images
Reply:The drill press should have come with a "drift" if you don't have one. You can make one, or buy one at a industrial supply, Enco or wholesale tool etc. Attached Images
Reply:To remove the chuck. Put a block of wood on the table. Raise the table, until you have about two inches of clearance between the chuck and table.Using a soft face hammer drive the drift into the slot in the quill. this will remove the chuck.To reinstall the the chuck, or to install another tool, wipe the tool clean, and jam it into the sicket on the quill. Attached Images
Reply:There is a lot of morse taper shank tooling available. Here's a photo ofA MT shank drill bit, an "Albecht" keyless chuck, a keyed chuck, and a tapping headI hope this answers some of your questions Attached Images
Reply:Jim, excellent educational post.  Thank you.
Reply:Jim that was a  great explantion with the pictures and all.  Very informative and a picture is worth a thousand words. DavidDavid
Reply:I had a problem with my chuck coming loose sometimes. I cleaned the taper up and put a dab of blue Locktite on it. That was 30 years ago.
Reply:My chuck comes loose sometimes too Mike ... not sure If I want to put locktite on it though.
Reply:Thanks for the feedback and great photos. Looking through the ENCO flyer it offers things like Morse Taper adapters, Jacobs, R8 and 5C.  Are those designs something I need to know about or can I just ignore them and stick with a chuck or MT2?
Reply:Jack;Is your chuck coming loose from the Arbor, or is the MT arbor coming out of the quill?If the arbor is coming out of the quill. Clean the arbor real good with Acetone, or some other degreaser. Open the chuck up all the way,so the jaws are not exposed. Insert into quill. Give a smart rap with a soft face hammer. that should take care of your problem.If the chuck is coming off of the arbor (Jacobs taper). Again degrease both the chuck sockett, and the arbor. Get some powdered "rosin". You can get it at Sports Authority, or other sporting goods store. Abain open the chuck all the way so the jaws are covered. Put a light coat of rosin no the Jacobs taper. Set the chuck on the arbor, smack smartly with a soft face hammer.I hope this helps"HF Expert" Jim
Reply:fla jim,I just picked up an old Delta Rockwell, made in 1958, from a light fixture shop that was closing.  Wow, picked up is over simplifying it.  Got it home and it seems much more solid than my few month old Jet.Other than the cord needing replacement and general cleanup of the machine, I think I need to replace the chuck.  Delta took my serial number and is sending me some free info, but you think it would be worth it to get a good chuck to put in it's place?  I keep hearing all this talk about jacobs, but to be candid, I don't even know what that means.  That's quite embarassing, but you guys have been teaching me so much I don't mind sharing my ignorance.  I know eventually I'll have to replace some of the pulleys and maybe get a different belt to slow this thing down for metal work, but I'm jacked up about getting this drill press.Thanks.
Reply:Junk, "jacobs chuck" has become more or less generic for a key operated drill chuck.Albrect has become more or less generic for the high quality keyless chucks used on metalworking machines.A delta of that vintage should be some good solid iron, and unless it's been neglected and abused, it shouldn't need much more than an oilcan.Your comment about needing to slow the machine down puzzles me, has somebody put a 3600 rpm motopr on it?  Adding a jackshaft isn't much of a problem, and there is a good plan for that on frugalmachinist.  I'm currently pondering on using a lawnmower deck spindle for a jackshaft pully.Appreciation Gains You Recognition-
Reply:I have been toying with the idea of installing a 1 - 2 hp treadmill motor on my drill press to convert it to variable speed.  In fact I have already scrounged up a few motors and controllers for just that purpose but haven't had the time to follow through.Has anyone else ever tried this?
Reply:Originally posted by cutter I have been toying with the idea of installing a 1 - 2 hp treadmill motor on my drill press to convert it to variable speed.  In fact I have already scrounged up a few motors and controllers for just that purpose but haven't had the time to follow through.Has anyone else ever tried this?
Reply:Thanks Jack,I'll take a look.cutter
Reply:Franz,You would agree that Jacobs makes a darn good chuck in their "Ball Bearing" models? I use one 5/8" on my 20" drill press and like it. I have 3 drill presses, 1-10" swing Delta, 5 speed, bench model, w/ 1/2" chuck; 1-14" Delta, 6 speed, bench model, w/1/2" chuck; and 1-20" swing Delta type (Imported but quite old and heavy) 14 speed (w/3 pulleys) floor model, w/ #3 MT and the 5/8" chuck. I use a compound "cross slide" vice wich gives me light milling capabilities also.
Reply:i use mine for light milling on aluminum, don't wont to mess it up with steel, i have an HF cross slide machinist's vise that is very smoothStangnetShop Full Of Stuff. Joey
Reply:Originally posted by Franz Your comment about needing to slow the machine down puzzles me, has somebody put a 3600 rpm motopr on it?
Reply:Junk, you don't need a computer to get the speeds, just find the motor speed on the nameplate, and calculate the quill speed by using the pully ratio.Appreciation Gains You Recognition-
Reply:Originally posted by cutter I have been toying with the idea of installing a 1 - 2 hp treadmill motor on my drill press to convert it to variable speed.  In fact I have already scrounged up a few motors and controllers for just that purpose but haven't had the time to follow through.Has anyone else ever tried this?
Reply:Jack;Brush type universal motors Are voltage dependant The brushes make contact on the coils in the armature to produce a magnetic field oposite of the magnetic field in the stator, or field coils. So the motor rotates by chasing the fields. The more voltage, the more difference in field strength, the faster it rotated. The "Router" speed control typically uses "SCR's" to regulate voltage.In a "sychronous motor the Coils on the stator are connected so that the magnetic field is rotated around the coils "sychronous to the AC frequency. The Iron core on the rotor chases the rotating field. On a sixty hertz motor the Rpm is determined by the number of coil sets, or poles. a motor with two poles will theoretically run at 3600 rpm. But due to friction losses, electrical lag etc. actual speed would be around 3450 rpm's. A four pole motor would run at 1800, or 1725 actual.the speed of Sychronous motors can be varied with A VFD, or variable frequency drive.Typically they use some variation of transitor gating to provide Voltage spikes harmonic to the 60 hertz sine wave. If the voltage spikes are widely spaced, the motor will actually coast part of the time and run at a lower RPM. The closer the spikes are spaced together, the the more the motor will actually be running, and the faster it will go up to the sychronous speed of the motor. A lot of drives can actually allow you to increase the base frequency above 60 hz, and allow the motor to run slighty faster. Motors that run on VFD"s usually run hoter, and are specified with "VFD grade insilation" to handle the heat.
Reply:Originally posted by morpheus hey Cutter, I was perusing the latest copy of the HF catalogs the other night and saw that they had their router control on sale for $19 ... I know absolutely NOTHING about motors but what makes that control capable of controlling a router and not a drillpress motor ?edit:here's the text from the HF router control: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43060
Reply:well ... I really have no idea what either of you were talking about but got the gist of it in a nutshell was that the router control won't work
Reply:Or I could just say it works by the theory of"PFM"! That's; Pure "expletive deleted" magicOriginally posted by morpheus well ... I really have no idea what either of you were talking about but got the gist of it in a nutshell was that the router control won't work
Reply:fla jim, i like that explanation ... pretty cut and dry Cutter, Like I said earlier I've seen use of the treadmill motor by guys putting them in import 9x20 lathe's. I haven't looked into it but what are they doing to control the speed ?fla jim, I'm coming to Fla next week ... where exactly is 'west central' ?Last edited by morpheus; 02-26-2004 at 12:04 PM.
Reply:Cutter;By Form factor, do you mean the NEMA starting torque codes?I'm not familiar with treadmills, bit I think tread mill motors are probably Universal. They are fairly low torque, and reliegh on Rpm's for power, and are geared down. Probably the best method of variable speed for a drill press would be a 3 phase motor with a VFD. You can get VFD's on Ebay that have single phase input, and three phase output. Here's the first one I came accross as an example.http://www.driveswarehouse.com/default.phpI have no idea about these people, but you can get an Idea about drives.
Reply:Jack. Where in Florida are you going?  Im in Seminole Florida, between Clearwater and St. Petersburg, accross Tampa bay from Tampa.
Reply:I'm going to Destin, got a free condo for a week ... weather's not the greatest this time of year but hey free is free ...  I just looked at a map and Tampa is a LONG way from destin, I really wanted to peek in the "magic garage"
Reply:Destin is a far drive, about six hours from the Magic Garage. I did some work up in the Panama City area Last summer. Had a rough time trying to find a hotel.
Reply:how's biz for you these days ? you always seemed to have some interesting jobs going on ... well except for the #2 part