how i weld square tube

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this is a frame fore a drip pan i made it work this is how i fit and weld square tube to keep it from warping first tack upthis shot shows how i clamp the parts wen its to big to fit on my tableChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:now some shots of my tacks just big enough to hold and small enough to weld throughin side corner firsti do all fore in corners check for square then tack the out sideChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:after the rest of the fit up ,the first welds are all four in side cornersthen the out sideyes all these are vert down yes thay will holdChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:now for more welds the cross tubes  vert down are next  after all the in side corner welds then the top and bottom can be weldedChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:all welded  now to grind off the top and bottom welds for the panChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:Nice professional work.  Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:thank youChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:Originally Posted by chopper5this is a frame fore a drip pan i made it work this is how i fit and weld square tube to keep it from warping first tack upthis shot shows how i clamp the parts wen its to big to fit on my table
Reply:a pumping station for a filtration systemChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:send that over to my house I could use a new welding table ....lol..  nice weldsStrive For Perfection
Reply:All inside corners first. I wouldn't have thought of that, but it looks like it works perfect.
Reply:Good job chuck!looks like its very strong...what load will be placed on it?My Babies: HF Drill pressHF Pipe Bender3   4.5" Black and Decker angle grindersLincoln Electric PROMIG 175that´s it!
Reply:Do you ever make your ends with miter cuts?  Thats how ive always done squ tube frames and I weld the outside first, then inside and top/bottom. I wonder if one holds square better than the other.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Originally Posted by Brookssend that over to my house I could use a new welding table ....lol..  nice welds
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88Do you ever make your ends with miter cuts?  Thats how ive always done squ tube frames and I weld the outside first, then inside and top/bottom. I wonder if one holds square better than the other.
Reply:Nice work Chuck,I do have a question - not to hijack the thread or anything  - but I have a partial cart frame welded - 2' x 3' (made out of 1" x 2" rec tube) which came out very nice, mitered corners, used a similar approach to yours in that I tacked and then did the corners.My question is, I need to weld a couple 2 x 4" rectangular uprights in the middle of the frame (i.e standing the 2 x 4" rec tube on end) on top of the 2" wide frame tube. I clamped the frame down to my welding table and I welded one on each side of the frame and    released the clamps! The 2' x 3' frame ends sucked right up, nice little rocking chair effect on what was, a very nice flat frame.I know, pics would help (and I can get those posted), but was wondering if you imagine any obvious errors or ways to avoid/reduce this problem.Imagine your frame pics above that you then welded an upright on, on each long side.Any thoughts woudl help...Mike
Reply:Mike,Pre-bend the frame piece in the opposite direction of the suck-up, then clamp and weld, WAIT for the weld to cool all the way, then unclamp.If your pre-bend amount is guessed right, when the weld cools and contracts it will balance out the pre-bend and you will end up flat.
Reply:On the side directly opposite your welds, try to apply the same amount of heat with a torch that you did with the welder, plus a bit. Run a "red hot spot" in the same pattern as your weld, in other words, if you have 6" of weld in a rectangular pattern on the top, run the torch 6" of "red hot spot" on the bottom. It's a good idea to try this method on some scrap to get the idea of how much heat to apply and how fast to move the to torch.Just my  opinion, not from a book, just from the road.Howes Welding Inc.www.howesweldinginc.com
Reply:Originally Posted by tessdadOn the side directly opposite your welds, try to apply the same amount of heat with a torch that you did with the welder, plus a bit. Run a "red hot spot" in the same pattern as your weld, in other words, if you have 6" of weld in a rectangular pattern on the top, run the torch 6" of "red hot spot" on the bottom. It's a good idea to try this method on some scrap to get the idea of how much heat to apply and how fast to move the to torch.
Reply:Why do you not bevel the ends?Always learning - thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by FlywheelWhy do you not bevel the ends?Always learning - thanks.
Reply:Thanks for the tips guys  I'll give the "repairs" a shot this weekend!Mike
Reply:Looks very nice!!And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Wow - One more reason I love this site - thanks for the help on the warping issues guys!I cut the existing welded uprights off (since they were welded in the wrong position the first time  ), leaving me with my warped frame. I clamped the frame down over some 1/2" sq stock and pre-bent. Re-welded, let cool and unclamped. The frame was still a bit warped, so I flipped it over, got out the OA torch, and mirrored the welds on the opposite side with a nice glowing red bead of its own - and    - a nice flat frame I did have.Attached some images;1) The damage... 2) Uprights removed, frame in pre-weld bend clamp up...(I think thats the official term...)3) Post weld - it really does look better - just a bad picture.4) From the top. You can see where I laid the "glowing red beads of heat" opposite from the previous welds.Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!!!   Attached Images
Reply:glad it worked out for you looks like you doing a good job on your frameChuckASME Pressure Vessel welderThanks Chuck - appreciate the help and comments...Just noticed - Utica, MI? Grew up in the Detroit area and used to drive to 18.5 & Van Dyke in Sterling Heights for work...close to you neck of the woods..Mike
Reply:I have a newbie question about welding a frame like this. (I've only got one semester under my belt, but I already bought myself a Christmas present---a Hobart Handler)On the 'face sides', is it more typical to leave the beads 'undressed' or to grind them flush with the faces? I know since the tubing has those corner radiuss it's like a groove weld almost. Is it just an appearance issue? It seems like it would be a little stronger left 'as welded', but not as clean-looking.I've been wondering about this and trying to notice how other guys projects handle this.Thanks for any help!Last edited by Migmark; 12-17-2012 at 09:19 PM.
Reply:If the weld is tall enough to interfere with something that is supposed to sit flush with that surfac, then it needs to be ground down.  Otherwise, it can be left alone.-AaronJet 17.5" Drill Press1942 South Bend 16x84 Lathe1980s Miller 320A / BP --- 2013 Power Mig 2562012 Jet 7x12 Horizontal BandsawVictor O/A Setup
Reply:Thanks for the tips - I am having warpage issues on a tube frame cart for my cabinet saw.  I'll use your sequence to straighten things out after cutting out the warped section.