smoking ground clamp

admin

I have a MM 211 with the autoset. I have been welding 1/4 in mild steel using the auto set feature and have noticed that the ground clamp gets very hot and begins to smoke. I am using .035 solid wire with 75/25 gas. The machine itself isn't over heating and is welding just fine. I haven't noticed it in the past. Is this normal or is something going wrong?Thanks,Mike
Reply:I would suspect something not attached tightly.  Check lugs inside machine.Sent from my SPH-M830 using Tapatalk
Reply:Hot clamp means resistance in the circuit.The location of the heat is usually where the problem is, so I'd suspect you don't have your clamp well grounded, or a loose connection between the clamp and the lead -- I have to tighten my lead-to-clamp bolt every now and then.  Check your clamp's jaws for spatter which is limiting their contact with the work suface and clean them off if necessary.EDIT: I'm not that familiar with these smaller machines, but they sometimes have smaller-diameter leads than what I'd like to see.  If you're pushing or exceeding your duty cycle, leads tend to get hot.  If the area of most resistance is in the work clamp attachment, that will be the hottest of the hot areas.  Another clue that this is the case is that your gun will usually be hot also.  I've had guns hot enough that I wouldn't want to hold onto them with bare hands.Last edited by tbone550; 04-19-2014 at 11:39 AM.
Reply:Once you check the connections cut that pizzachit clamp that Miller stuck on it off and use it for a paperclip.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:It will be a good idea to remove the work lead from the work clamp (ground) and look at the surfaces where the lead wires contact the clamp surfaces.  These surfaces can become burnt and fatigued, resulting in high resistance.You may need to sandpaper or Dremel tool the surfaces on the clamp to get good continuity.  If the lead wires are burnt or hot looking, cut the lead back a couple of inches until you see undamaged wire.
Reply:Ok thanks. The clamp is all kinds of cooked and the lead wire is black. I think that might be the problem.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004Ok thanks. The clamp is all kinds of cooked and the lead wire is black. I think that might be the problem.
Reply:Use a new clamp like Burpee had shown and upgrade the cable at least 1 gauage larger.Miller xmt304,  Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
Reply:I think you are all right about the ground clamp - made in China by the way.
Reply:this is the type of ground i use. this will hang,clamp or tack to just about anything and it's easy to make. Attached Imagesi.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Cool idea! I'll make one of those. Thanks for the idea.
Reply:Best little ground clamp I ever made was an old 10" vise grips pliers.  I welded a 3/8" bolt onto it and attached the eye terminal end of the ground lead to the bolt.With the vise grips, getting a good bite is never an issue.  Of course they will not help you if there is nothing for them to bite onto. (refer to docwelder in that case)
Reply:I would also agree its a loose connection.  I burned up some heavy duty cable ends recently just bc they where a tad bit loose.
Reply:You need pressure for a ground clamp to work well. That hanging clamp sounds like a very bad idea. Contact resistance will go down several fold just by forcing the clamp against the work with some pressure.Here's a simple test for ya, vice grip over the clamp so the clamp is really tight and see if it stops overheating. If not it's in the cable of cable attachment to the clamp.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverYou need pressure for a ground clamp to work well. That hanging clamp sounds like a very bad idea. Contact resistance will go down several fold just by forcing the clamp against the work with some pressure.Here's a simple test for ya, vice grip over the clamp so the clamp is really tight and see if it stops overheating. If not it's in the cable of cable attachment to the clamp.
Reply:this is the ground i use on my 110v mig. the stock ground was a cheesy light duty spring clamp. this alligator type clamp almost takes two hands to operate and is a big improvement. Attached Imagesi.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:I changed my ground clamp but it still gets hot.It's a tweco that I picked up my lws. But now I have a new problem. MM 211. I was using this mig wire that I got from eBay. Just some generic stuff that was inexpensive. It worked great. Surprisingly great. I ran through two 11# spools with not so much as a hick up. Then I changed over to the Hobart from tractor supply and I'm getting all kinds of sputtering and popping. I really don't want to believe that it's the wire. Could there be something else? The wire is easy enough to deal with but I just can't believe it would be the cause.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004I changed my ground clamp but it still gets hot.
Reply:Originally Posted by pin2hotWhere does it get hot?  I'm assuming the photo is of yours.   The screw that tightens onto the cable in the photo appears to be bottomed out.   Could be a loose connection.   You could wrap some copper from copper pipe or tubing around your cable and tighten onto that.  When I got my stinger and work clamps, one or both came with some what appeared to be copper foil to wrap around the cable.   Later, when redoing some (that I had tinned the ends on and they were getting hot) I used some pieces of copper tubing.  I have since seen using the copper mentioned elsewhere on WW.DO NOT TIN WITH SOLDER!   I have seen this recommended here as well.  I did it way before algore invented the internet and that turned out to be a big no no.   The solder 'cold flows' and results in a loose connection.   I cut them off and redid with the copper pipe.  No more hot connections.Tim
Reply:ok that seems to have worked and really well. Also, the sputtering was because I am dumb. You see, I used auto set and had it set up for .030 wire. I am using .035 wire. Once I switched it, it works like it should. I am dumb sometimes. Just really dumb!!!
Reply:I use a 400 amp brass work clamp on my 216, MM211 and Buzzbox.  I hate the cheap $h!+ clamps that machines come with.  I also use a piece of old copper cable, twisted all up "candy Cain style" and it makes such a better contact for mig welding.  Instead of one little "ridge" on the inside of the clamp jaws, I now have a much larger surface contact area.  Mig seems to be really finicky with a weak ground contact point. Attached ImagesLincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:When pushing the amps for long times I have found that when you clamp the clamp with a clamp it stops all ground clamp issues.......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcI use a 400 amp brass work clamp on my 216, MM211 and Buzzbox.  I hate the cheap $h!+ clamps that machines come with.  I also use a piece of old copper cable, twisted all up "candy Cain style" and it makes such a better contact for mig welding.  Instead of one little "ridge" on the inside of the clamp jaws, I now have a much larger surface contact area.  Mig seems to be really finicky with a weak ground contact point.
Reply:Originally Posted by docwelder... this alligator type clamp almost takes two hands to operate and is a big improvement.
Reply:Just bolt the cable to the table.This won't fit on the table.
Reply:What about those magnetic grounds many seem to mention. Not for aluminum or stainless work.
Reply:I've tried that but what tends to happen to me is it picks up so much debris.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004I've tried that but what tends to happen to me is it picks up so much debris.
Reply:I've come to prefer this style of ground clamp.
Reply:That's sweet. I'm going to find one or two of those.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004I am dumb sometimes. Just really dumb!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by 4956I've come to prefer this style of ground clamp.
Reply:I am going to have to pick one of them up. My vs lead from the suitcase will clamp nicely on that.Sent from my SPH-L710 using TapatalkTOO MANY TOOLS & NO MORE SPACE
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004That's sweet. I'm going to find one or two of those.
Reply:Originally Posted by Chris T.I am going to have to pick one of them up. My vs lead from the suitcase will clamp nicely on that.Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
Reply:Best welding clamp I own/ use.  It clamps to my table and holds a good ground. I have it set up so I can use it with multiple machines. Ive even used it to clamp to 1-1/4" tube.GarLincoln Electric, Power MIG 256Hypertherm Powermax 45 Miller Dynasty 280DXSmith O/A torchGenesis of a welding table
Reply:Just did a quick search, looks like Arc-zone.com has a decent price on the same C-clamp style ground clamp ive been using.  And Lenco is made in the USA!GarLincoln Electric, Power MIG 256Hypertherm Powermax 45 Miller Dynasty 280DXSmith O/A torchGenesis of a welding table
Reply:Originally Posted by VPTWhat about those magnetic grounds many seem to mention. Not for aluminum or stainless work.
Reply:Originally Posted by GarBest welding clamp I own/ use.  It clamps to my table and holds a good ground. I have it set up so I can use it with multiple machines. Ive even used it to clamp to 1-1/4" tube.Gar
Reply:Originally Posted by Silicon-basedI have that exact clamp. I also have male LC-40's on short whips of cable bolted to all of my welding tables. The clamp is used for large weldments that don't fit on tables.John