New Hobby Welder - Sharing my first experiences...

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This is my first post on the forum but I have spent countless hours on this forum and others, youtube, etc trying to gain some understanding of welding. If nothing else, I've gained an appreciation for how much there is to know and how little I know! Last year I had a neighbor help with a quick weld on a lawn mower deck. He had an inexpensive 115V flux core wire fed welder and I figured if I could do those same repairs with a similar welder that would be good. The other week I came across a $100 Campbell Hausfeld "Farmhand" 115V a MIG/flux core wire feed welder on craigslist and picked it up (it had a little cart with it). It has limited settings - a High / Low power, 15amp / 20 amp and wire speed. Like many others have pointed out, I know these are low end welders and they have limitations, etc. I've already spent more money on a helmet (Miller Digital Pro Hobby), gloves, clamps, etc than I did on the welder! I went forward with the idea of getting a welder because I wanted to fix a steel (not sure of exact type) hand railing (6 steps) at our back porch stoop.  The railing attaches to the wood porch at the top and then goes down and has two points where the metal anchors in the concrete step - both the 1/2" solid square picket or baluster (?) in the middle and the hollow 1" square bar or "post" on the end were rusted at the concrete. I took the railing down.  Recognizing my lack of knowledge, I went out to a Home Depot and picked up a section of 1" steel square tubing (16g) (I still need to get a section of 1/2 solid). My plan was to cut off the rusted ends of the two members and weld up a new piece that would then be mounted back in the concrete. I did a lot of reading on butt joints and thin tubing and all I read played out. With my skills, the welder, and probably the settings it made it almost impossible to weld the two pieces together. It seemed almost impossible to weld without blowing a hole in the square tubing. I kept trying to weld small spots, grind, go back and weld, etc. I thought I had it done and after putting a little pressure on the end it just broke off - there was little to no penetration with what i had done. That was disappointing to say the least.  So I went back to reading and saw talk of using an insert or sleeve, using plug welds, etc and returned to try again. I drilled two holes - one in the old piece and one in the new piece and I slip in a piece of angle iron. Feeling like I was till having trouble burning through wherever I was welding on an edge of the tubing, I ended up cutting four 3" pieces of 1" 16G flat bar and essentially welded them in a square around the joint. Boy, it was ugly by the time I was done welding and grinding. I could tell the difference when having something of decent thickness and a decent edge to weld.  When done, I put all my weight on the end it wouldn't budge (I'm not suggesting that is good enough testing). I should add that I followed the settings on the machine - power at Low and 15/20 amp to 15am. I played with the wire speed, distance while welding, etc - I still need a lot of to practice to figure out what works best. Before I was done for the day, I cut off two small pieces (4") of 1/8" thick angle iron and I stood one on the other and welded around the four edges. I changed the settings on the welder for this thickness. I took one pass at each of the four edges (inside / outside) - it looked ugly and not at all a good weld. But I took that piece and put the bottom piece in the vice and beat the top one with a hammer. I beat it from both sides. It would only bend the bottom piece in the clamp but the weld held. That probably doesn't mean much. But I felt somewhat better that maybe trying to work with this welder and butt joints on 1" square 16g tubing is just not easy. From all I've read and watched, that seems to be the case. I'll end my long-winded introduction with a question. The next piece is the solid 1/2" baluster. Like the other piece, I need to weld on a about a 8" piece. Given that this piece is solid, I assume it may be a lot different than the hollow / thin tubing. But a 1/2" doesn't offer much room to weld. What is the right course of action? Should I go to a supply shop and get a piece of tubing for a sleeve and weld that on? I'm not after perfection - the first piece I did looks like a bulge in the railing. But I think after sanding/painting/etc no one will notice. Or, to do it right, should I have replaced the entire length of these two pieces? I posted a few pictures below. Thank you for any general feedback and I appreciate all the information on this forum!Railing still attached... the one on the left is the one I am starting on.the smaller baluster that I need to add 8" to (still need to cut back to good metal).
Reply:Sorry for adding to my own post, but I wanted to add one other comment for others just starting out. The Miller helmet I got was really helpful for me. I did a bit of online research (articles, reviews, etc) and it seems reasonable at the price ($130). I know some say going with auto darkening isn't good because you don't learn the traditional method. But, for me, it was a tremendous help. And I also like that you can switch modes. You can change to "grind" mode which is just at a #3 shade. So I could use the helmet while grinding and cutting. The only thing I had to remember was to change the mode back before welding. I started a habit of looking at the window before welding to make sure I had it in auto darkening mode. The shell and head piece part doesn't seem that great in terms of quality and I need to fool with the knobs to get the helmet to stay up with flipped, but the auto darkening and controls seem decent. I know it doesn't compare to a high-end helmets but I also felt it was a reasonable choice over lower end helmets.
Reply:There is no need to learn to hurt your neck with every nod of the hood.
Reply:Welcome to the forum!Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:Dont buy steel from Big box stores anymore. Go to your local steel supply next time. Its less expensive. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLincoln Pro Mig 180HF Stick/Tig Inverter WelderLincoln AC225s
Reply:Originally Posted by SpicytunaDont buy steel from Big box stores anymore. Go to your local steel supply next time. Its less expensive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:It's been a while since I've used one of those little welders, but I found that when I started out (and have seen with most people starting out) is that you tend to have your wire feed way too high and have way too much stick out. Trying turning the feed down all the way and slowly turning it up till you get a nice smooth arc. Also does your welder have the tapered, flux core nozzle? If it's the brass kind used for gas welding, I can almost guarantee you your stick out is way too much. The tip is too far recessed into those nozzles for those little welders that you practically have to drag the nozzle. I find it odd your having trouble blowing through and then having no penetration at the same time? Try using .023 wire for the 16ga steel. Also, you're going to have a hard time welding that 1/2" bar. I don't think you'll get any penetration. My Hobart 210 when plugged into a 110v outlet wouldn't weld a 1/2" round bar. It will "glue" it down but don't expect any strength. You could try grinding down the bar where you're going to weld down to a point and filling it in with weld. Or try pre-heating till it's glowing red? Like I said, it's been a while since I used 110v and I've never really experimented with the "thicker" stuff.John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:Don't get too good at this. You will only want to hone your skills even more. And your wallet will get real skinny or your spouse will divorce you.   Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Welcome to the forum.+1 for shovelon' s post.Jerry30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30"  vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Thanks for the feedback! I did go by and purchased some 1/2" solid square stock at a steel supply store on the way home - it was less than half the price! And I found out another good supplier is around the corner from home.  As to the tip, yes, it has one. And I should have added that it came with a 0.04 tip and it had .035 wire. I went out and got a new spool of of Hobart .035 because the welder / wire with the unit had been siting for a while.  At some point into the project I did take off the tip because I saw that mentioned. I felt as if that may have helped. I think maybe I am holding too far off the metal. Again, I need to practice.  The manual says it can use 0.024 to .035 wire. The manual also says "AWS E71T-GS or E71T-11" wire is recommended. What I got was E71T-11. If I reading correctly, the .024 is only for MIG welding? If I went the route of getting gas, the regulators, etc, with the same welder, would that help dealing with thinner material? Just curious. I understand it's less spatter, has some disadvantages outside, etc. Now that I got some of the 1/2" square solid stock to extend the rusted off baluster, can I get recommendations on how to approach that weld? This would be two solid pieces butted together. Assuming for a moment I knew what I was doing, can that be done? I assume both ends should be cleaned and then beveled. But it just doesn't like there is must surface area to weld given it's just 1/2" in width. Again, I'm not too worried about cosmetics.As I play around with things, I get a lot of ideas - suddenly a world of opportunities come to mind... I'm sure there must be some things I can fabricate (non-structural) for the Jeep... :/ If only time allows...
Reply:Originally Posted by deadspotThanks for the feedback! I did go by and purchased some 1/2" solid square stock at a steel supply store on the way home - it was less than half the price! And I found out another good supplier is around the corner from home.  As to the tip, yes, it has one. And I should have added that it came with a 0.04 tip and it had .035 wire. I went out and got a new spool of of Hobart .035 because the welder / wire with the unit had been siting for a while.  At some point into the project I did take off the tip because I saw that mentioned. I felt as if that may have helped. I think maybe I am holding too far off the metal. Again, I need to practice.  The manual says it can use 0.024 to .035 wire. The manual also says "AWS E71T-GS or E71T-11" wire is recommended. What I got was E71T-11. If I reading correctly, the .024 is only for MIG welding? If I went the route of getting gas, the regulators, etc, with the same welder, would that help dealing with thinner material? Just curious. I understand it's less spatter, has some disadvantages outside, etc. Now that I got some of the 1/2" square solid stock to extend the rusted off baluster, can I get recommendations on how to approach that weld? This would be two solid pieces butted together. Assuming for a moment I knew what I was doing, can that be done? I assume both ends should be cleaned and then beveled. But it just doesn't like there is must surface area to weld given it's just 1/2" in width. Again, I'm not too worried about cosmetics.As I play around with things, I get a lot of ideas - suddenly a world of opportunities come to mind... I'm sure there must be some things I can fabricate (non-structural) for the Jeep... :/ If only time allows...
Reply:Beveling both sides would be the best way to approach this. When trying to weld a piece like this I like to use a a piece of angle iron as a jig to help keep things straight. This really helps when you have beveled both sides and don't have a good reference at the ends any longer. Clamp the two pieces to the angle iron then do solid tacks on the open two sides, being careful not to weld the pieces to the angle. Check and see if it's still straight. It will pull out of straight some, but if it's not too bad you should be ok when you do the next welds. If it's way off, try and straighten it before welding the next two sides. Continue around as needed until it's all filled in. Then grind flush as needed.Option #2 is to find some tube that will slide over the existing bar. Simply slide the tube over and weld the outside where the two meet. Down side is that it doesn't look as nice and smooth when done..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks. Welding the solid 1/2" square seemed to go better. I had to weld and grind a couple times but it seemed Ok in the end. It was nice not welding the thin square tubing. Now I have to figure out the best way to sand down the old paint and rust and then prime and paint... then move on to the second railing....
Reply:Odd items like that are perfect choices for sand blasting. My rental place rents the blaster and sells the sand. Other place you can drop it off and have it blasted for you. Most that blast will even prime and paint or powder coat it if you want to go that route.Other than that, there isn't an "easy" way to go. The paint can be removed with stripper, but that's still a PITA, rust, you have to sand or grind. All a wire wheel does is polish the rust for you, not remove it..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I spent a couple hours on it with the angle grinder and flap discs.  It is going generally well but of course those discs don't last too long and you can't get in to tight places. But I think I'll get most of it. Then I'm going to pull out my cheap Harbor Freight spray gun and prime & paint it. Like every project, once you get through the first one the second goes easier. So the other railing shouldn't be as bad.
Reply:I don't know if it is appropriate to post, but in my exhaustive effort to watch every video on the web about welding with flux core, I ran into this video. While the guy's odd intensity cracks me up, I though this was one of the most useful videos I had watched. At 4:20 into the video he offers what I hope is good advice on just what I was dealing with. And in other parts of the video he offers some really detailed advice on angle of the top, wire feed, etc.  I just thought I would share. .