Stick welding 14 ga tubing and C purlin help

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I work as a Mig welder welding bumpers up all day.  I have lots of tig welding experience from my previous job.  Everything I know about stick welding though is what I've taught myself and learned off the internet.  I've recently purchased a Hobart 250 generator welder and got a deal I could'nt refuse on a Maxstar 150.  Here recently I've gotten a few small side jobs doing carports and patios and such.  Most of them i've built has been with 14 gauge 2x4 rectangular tubing, 14 ga 4x4 tube, and 4" C purlin for runners.  The problem I have is when I'm attaching the 2x4 to the 4x4 poles on the sides, today I done it with 3/32 6011's running downhill with my maxstar on 60 amps, I keep getting too hot and burning through the tube, I have to stop and go a lot to get it all filled in.  I've also tried it with 1/8" 6011's at 90 amps and 3/32 7018s going uphill at about 90 amps.  I'm good with my angles and always get my gaps tight.  I just want to know what the best way to stick weld this thin stuff is.  I've never had nothing fail just wish I could make it look better.  Any thoughts and opinions is very appreciated thanks
Reply:Give 6013 rods a try. Less penetrationMiller Pro 300 SS w/ cat Miller Bobcat 250Miller Diversion 165 Miller 211Miller Xtreme 375Miller 12vsMiller Dynasty 200 DX Miller Passport Plus w/ Spool GunMiller 30a spoolmaticLincoln AC225 Buzz Box VictorMathey Dearman - H&M
Reply:Try running a larger rod  at the same amps.  I would try 1/8 6011 at 60 amps and run it downhill.  I would also make sure you have good puddle control.  I would use a C pattern or a make little circles and walk the puddle down the joint.  Either pattern will keep you heat moving around so you don't get a burn through.  You may want to try a 6013, but I find it much easier to weld thin metal with a fast freeze rod.  The 6013 if you aren't moving fast enough will hold too much heat on the metal that the puddle will fall through behind you.  One other point that will help is to start your weld on the edge or corner and move to the wider part to dissipate the heart better.  If not you will carry your heat to the edge or corner and many times it will fall out on you and leave a good looking joint looking like you took a bite out of it for a snack.
Reply:thanks for the help.  I'm gonna get in the shop and work on it once it cools back off again.  I've got some scrap laying around I can play with.  I'm gonna figure it out
Reply:Tractor Supply stocks 7014 and 7018 in 1/16. I run at 50-60 amps on my thermal arc 161 when welding 14/16 ga. purlins. 7014 is better, but the 7018s work good also.Millermatic 250Lincoln 180TLincoln SP-135Miller Thunderbolt AC/DCThermal Arc 161SAirco 300 Heliwelder
Reply:I build a lot of metal buildings, loafing sheds, carports and patio covers using a lot of the materials you mentioned. I use 1/8" 6010's. The 6010's are a bit faster freeze rod than the 6011's so you might try those. I use them at about 80 to 85 amps and go fast. I always use pipe where the owners will allow it as there is no orientation in placing it and the thickness allows you to be able to put the rafters on top and the added thickness makes it a lot easier to weld. Hope this helps.
Reply:I'd go with the 1/8" 6010, run hot with very little gap.... Basically run it hot enough so you can "drag" it in there.The slower you go and the longer the are length the more issues you will have with burn through. Your not looking for a bead that is "wetting in" at the edges. Your getting your strength by the forming of the joint, not the amount of metal in the fillet.Good Luck,HoboLincoln SA200's... at least 15 - 20. They come and go. Growing partial to the "Short Hoods" in my old age. Last count on Short Hoods was 13 in possession.