Best Multi-Cutter/Dry cut saw?

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Looking for a saw to cut rectangular and round metal tubing. Mostly mild steel, but might occasionally do stainless. Or aluminum. Probably nothing larger than 2". Don't have the space for a horizontal bandsaw in my shop. Don't have the $$$ for a vertical metal cutting bandsaw. Do most of my work in my garage, so I'm not terribly fond of the sparks (and mess) of abrasive cut-off saws.So... I think that means I want a multi-cutter/dry cut saw. Which one is the best? I've seen some positive comments on the Dewalt DW872. What about the 14" Milwaukee (model #6190-20)? Which saw has the best clamp? Should I bother looking at the 14" Hitachi or the 12" Makita?Any other solutions I should consider?
Reply:I have the DeWalt, as does dda52 (on this forum).  We really like them.  I've not tried to cut stainless with it, so can't address that.  I can tell you they make a blade specifically for stainless, though.JTMcC (on this forum) has the Makita 12" and has given it great reviews.  As much as I'm a DeWalt guy, he almost had me ready to buy one if I needed another.No experience (or hearsay) with the Milwaukee or Hitachi.They still are very loud, and shoot chips instead of sparks, still making a mess.
Reply:I have the Milwuakee Dry Cut saw and like it very much. I had considered buying the Dewalt or the Makita but I really liked the sturdiness of the base and the clamp on the Milwuakee when I compared all 3 in person.
Reply:Originally Posted by MAC702They still are very loud, and shoot chips instead of sparks, still making a mess.
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabI have the Milwuakee Dry Cut saw and like it very much. I had considered buying the Dewalt or the Makita but I really liked the sturdiness of the base and the clamp on the Milwuakee when I compared all 3 in person.
Reply:Originally Posted by sstorkelLouder than an abrasive chop saw? I was thinking that chips might be easier to deal with than the fine grit I seem to end up with whenever I use an abrasive saw or cut-off wheel. I don't know why it is, but I can never seem to get the grit completely cleaned up...
Reply:Yup, never leave a glove on the table next to the saw.......     I find those chips everywhere...sometimes the hard way. As much as they hurt, I still won't go back to an abrasive saw.I believe that as long as you get a name brand saw, they are all pretty much equal. They all have strong and weak points. None are too bad and they all seem to come out almost even after the dust settles. I was ready to get a Makita, but found the recon DW first. So far it has been perfect. I also ended up needing the 5" capacity a few times on exhaust pipe work.
Reply:Originally Posted by sstorkelThanks for the info, ZT! Exactly the sort of thing I was looking for. Still hoping to be able to find the machine locally, but don't know if I'll be able to do a side-by-side comparison...
Reply:i have the makita 12 carbide saw. have for about 1 year i guess. its great . so much faster than the abrassive. i like the little metal shaving bin that catches most of the shavings. but with this saw and im sure with all the other brands. you have to be sure your material is clamped very well or it will kick hard and usually brake a tooth off the blade. i also like that i can have my blades sharpened and re toothed for only about 13 bucks. so of course i recommend the makita but am not steering you away from the others. i have a dewault and makita grinder and both have held up for there share.
Reply:I bought the 14" Milwaukee (model #6190-20) from Amazon.com, this was the 1st time I purchased a power tool from them. (bought plenty of videos and cd's) I wanted to buy locally but nobody had one in stock to see in person and the prices were outrageous. ( a benefit of living in CT) The price was only 435.00 with FREE shipping and as a bonus they had some kind of customer promo so I paid 405.00 . They estimated shipment in 14 days, I received it 3 days later.I use it for mild steel angle, flat stock, tube. I love using this saw. I'll never buy another abrasive saw unless I use it out in the field ( way out in the field far away from anything flamable) I use this saw in my workshop in my garage.I'm happy to deal with the chips instead of the sparks and dust.  If you cut ferous materials you can set up your idle welding magnets around the saw to help collect stray chips.
Reply:Antman, I did that by mistake. I left the magnet on the table behind the saw out of the way...I thought. Fired up the saw for a few dozen cuts and moved it back. When I moved it, I saw the magnet. It looked like a metallic chia pet.  Liked to never get all that stuff off of it. Never did that again.
Reply:I recently purchased the DeWalt Cut-Off Saw (model unk? has a toothed blade).Cuts great, about the same noise as the Abrasive Blade and the cut appear to more square.When I got mine (a few months ago) DeWalt threw in and extra blade, nice.I thought I saw a blade for S/S, could be wrong.   As far as the chips are concerned, they are still hot so a vacuum is in question but a piece of canvas or leather attached to the output will help to drop the chips into a container; easier to clean up.I have a question though...  does everyone move their saws around as needed or set it up on a table ?Ltr,NnF
Reply:Mine lives on my table. Hardly ever do anything more than move it from one side to the other.
Reply:Originally Posted by DDA52Antman, I did that by mistake. I left the magnet on the table behind the saw out of the way...I thought. Fired up the saw for a few dozen cuts and moved it back. When I moved it, I saw the magnet. It looked like a metallic chia pet.  Liked to never get all that stuff off of it. Never did that again.
Reply:Originally Posted by NnFAs far as the chips are concerned, they are still hot so a vacuum is in question but a piece of canvas or leather attached to the output will help to drop the chips into a container; easier to clean up.
Reply:Originally Posted by antman455I use it for mild steel angle, flat stock, tube. I love using this saw. I'll never buy another abrasive saw unless I use it out in the field ( way out in the field far away from anything flamable) I use this saw in my workshop in my garage.I'm happy to deal with the chips instead of the sparks and dust.  If you cut ferous materials you can set up your idle welding magnets around the saw to help collect stray chips.
Reply:Maybe you could hang a couple of cheap HF pickup magnets for chip removal.  I'm talking about the ones where the Mag is in a can and you pull the handle to remove the chips.  They go for 3 or 4 bucks when on sale.DennisThermal Arc 185-TSWMillermatic Challenger 172VictorO/AAtlas Craftsman 12 by 24 LatheEsab PCM-875Wholesalem Tool Mill-Drill
Reply:The magnet wouldn't have helped me tonight. I have loooomininimiunm all over the place.  Big mess to clean up......in the morning.  I also found out what happens when you cut some 1/8" x 1" 304SS with the standard blade. It kills it! After 10 cuts, I blew a tooth on the last cut. It also was harder to cut on each one. After that happened, I tried some more 1/4 alu...it left so many burrs, I had to grind each one down......conclusion...the blade is toast. Got out the last one I have to put on in the morning. I believe this one can be salvaged. First, I gotta find a resharpener that will do it.
Reply:I bought a 14" dry blade from Northern Tool to try on my cheapo HF chop saw.  Haven't tried it yet, but if it works, it would be a cheaper way to go.  I'll let you know what happens when I get around to swapping blades.
Reply:well now i am not so sure about leading you towards the makita. last night the piece of allthread that attaches to the clamp broke in half. i hope the the welding shop i bought it from covers their warrenty. if not. ill have to weld it up i guess.
Reply:my vote on it is the dewalt is its a great saw ... the base kind of blows for angles and the blades are bloody expensive. but they last basicly untill you mess up and chip a tooth, as to geting them sharpened, I have tried to have them sharpened and retoothed it seems no one can do it, when I get them back they still don't cut right even after going to 5 differant sharpening shops.the avenger blades seem to be the best value they are $80-90 for 110 tooth the cut good and have no problem cuting any thing I tried them on.. the last one I spanked it trying to cut a funky angle in angle iron and the part sliped and took out a tooth .... the blade dieded fairly fast after that. one thing that I LOVE on this saw is how fast it cuts, I have cut 2.5" solid square stock on it it cuts about 5 times as fast as an abrasive saw and 10 times as fast as my band saw, we still have both in the shop as thare is some things that both do better than the dewalt, the abrasive saw can cut HI carbon and hardened steel along with things that are still hot from forgeing the dewalt is ify on hi carbon and hardened is right out as are bars under 1/4" thick) the band saw we use for production runs gang cuting 10 -20 bars to langht at a time when you do thins the band saw is fasted and you can walk away from it, gang cutting in the dewalt is problematicat best.... I do not sigest it.  over all my only major compant it the vice on the dewalt ... it just plane sucks. so much so that we have been thinking of ways to replace it....there is my 2 cents on it hope it helps MPHeat it and Beat it!!!http:www.Fallinghammerproductions.com
Reply:Hey, MP....who makes the Avenger blades? Don't know them. I was going to try the Metal Devils next, but they are still 100 bucks plus each.
Reply:I use the avenger blades on my saw....definitely a decent blade for the price. I've been getting mine through MAX Tool.Avenger Blades at Max Toolhttp://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:that is were I am getting them also.... Max tool is ok good prices good stuff, but they take forever to get the stuff to me.... last time I ordered it was over 4 weeks to ship 4 blades.... going to go with faster shipping next time and damn the cost!!!!MPHeat it and Beat it!!!http:www.Fallinghammerproductions.com
Reply:Thanks, guys. I'm gonna check those blades out. I am afraid I will have the same trouble here as regards the sharpening bit. The last one I messed up wasn't salvagable. Bent that sucker 5/8" and destroyed 5-6 teeth and sockets. No way to salvage it so it went in file 13. Sad day that was, too.Originally Posted by mpmetalthat is were I am getting them also.... Max tool is ok good prices good stuff, but they take forever to get the stuff to me.... last time I ordered it was over 4 weeks to ship 4 blades.... going to go with faster shipping next time and damn the cost!!!!MP
Reply:that might be good, thanks for the offer!my problem is allways that I leave re ordering the blades untill the last second.... not wanting to shell out that much cash......next time I need them I will drop you a line. shouldn't be verry soon as I have a spare and the one that is on there is still good, they do last a long time so long as you don't chip a tooth..... most of the time from being stupid..MPHeat it and Beat it!!!http:www.Fallinghammerproductions.com
Reply:I have a milwaukee 6190, I like it. I've been using Freud Diablo blades I've been getting on e bay. 4 for about $120-140. Good on MILD steel. Cut anything harder  and it will kill the blade in a hurry! I've seen blades for aluminum and stainless, But I'm not going to blow $100 bucks on a single blade.   If you're not cutting mild steel I'd say you better use an abrasive chop saw or a band saw.
Reply:Just wanted to follow up... I ended up buying the Milwaukee 6190-20 from Amazon. It didn't seem to have an overwhelming amount of support, but I did see a number of reviews that complained about the clamp on the Dewalt so I figured I'd give the Milwaukee a try.Don't have a huge amount of experience with the tool, but thought I'd post a few quick impressions. After a bit of a hassle with UPS, the tool arrived in fine condition. It was essentially assembled out of the box; the only thing to do was install the blade, which was a piece of cake. Not too much to the manual, but it was well-written and easy to understand. The base seems to be pretty solid. I've used Makita and Ridgid abrasive chop saws and would say that the 6190 feels a bit more solid. The clamp is... decent. The fence doesn't lock down especially tight, so cranking on the vise handle will move the fence out of alignment eventually. If you're reasonably careful, it's possible to adjust the vice so that it holds the piece securely and doesn't knock the fence out of alignment. The pre-marked settings for 90- and 45-degrees actually seem to be accurate! Unfortunately, the fence and vise are a bit far from the blade. This limits your ability to safely clamp and cut small pieces. As I found out when I attempted to trim a bit more off a short piece and ended up throwing it across the room! Cut quality is excellent! A night and day difference from an abrasive chop saw. As Mac pointed out, it's still pretty loud. And it does throw small metal chips all over the place. Hearing and eye protection are a must. Not sure why they bothered to add the removable chip tray; it doesn't seem to catch much of anything. The motor doesn't have a soft start feature, so pulling the trigger invariably causes a bit of a jerk. Once started, the motor runs smoothly and cuts quickly with very little pressure required on the handle. I'd estimate that cuts are 2-4X faster than with an abrasive chop saw. The cut ends are generally very clean. When making 45-degree cuts, I couldn't find a position for the fence that didn't leave a slight bit of excess metal on the back side of the cut-off piece; looks like the cut-off breaks before the blade can cut all the way through. Easily cleaned up with a file in a couple of minutes. Not bad when you only have 3-4 pieces, but it would probably get annoying if you had more to do.So far, I'm pretty happy with the saw. It's definitely a big improvement over all of the abrasive saws I've used. Glad I decided to spend the extra bucks for the dry cut machine!