Square DOM Tubing?

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Based on some Google searches, square DOM Tubing seems fairly uncommon.  I need some seamless square tubing around 1" or maybe 1.5" to weld on tractor farm implements.   I'd like to add several "kickstands" that the implements rest on rather than resting on the cultivator tines, etc.  The 3 or 4 kickstands on each implement would be raised during use.  Any good sources for a small quantity (6-10')Thanks,
Reply:Just buy hrew, should work fine for kickstands.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerJust buy hrew, should work fine for kickstands.
Reply:Die grinder will work fine for short sections. For longer sections I've ground up a homemade single cutting edge broach using a section of bar for the broach and whatever material was handy for the side mounted shims and run it through using all-thread to power the broach. Gotta tell ya' unless you value your time at pennies on the day it isn't worth either the time or effort when you can run down to the steel supplier and grab some receiver tube, go with pipe or just hog out the inside tube to clearance the inside weld "bump".Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:AmericanWelderYour question is rife with material misunderstanding = design confusion.Start over - and tell us the farm implement standard you are matching.DOM is round by process.  Heavy nesting square-tube is internally broached to accept 'plow-bar'.Opusps Why is 7/16" so common on dirt gear?.Last edited by OPUS FERRO; 05-09-2014 at 01:09 AM.Reason: 7/16"/#12's are equally inconvenient.
Reply:You're looking for rectangular tubing with the inner flash removed. Expensive and not likely found except for around 2" on up. The small outer flash (if any) is removed on all rec tube already.On some of the receiver tube they make the larger flash on the outside, leaving the smaller flash (if any) inside and easier to remove. They call that "flash out" flash removed".  On sections they can pull a broach through which may be where the impression of DOM came from."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Your getting to technical. Jack leg. Use a piece of pipe that fits inside the other one. Cut a hole, weld a nut on it so you'll have a stop/lock. Do the same for the mount. Like wyoroy said you'll be working for 5 cents an hour.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:There are a lot of sizes and dimensions that marry up pretty well any way. Plenty good for ag equipment. You just have to mess around with a few sizes till you find a pair that will suit your needs all around. 2"x2"x 3/16ths comes to mind. Heavy 1 &1/2" should fit inside that??"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:I use tubing from the local farm supply store for my smaller trailer jack stands. The plated tube is 1 1/4" and the holes are pre-punched.
Reply:Thanks everybody.  I see that "nestable" tubing is around $5/ft.  Will probably go with that in around 1.5" OD (0.105 wall thickness) for the bracket and standard welded 1.25" x 0.125 for the legs.  Legs may be up to 36" long based on where they attach to the implements.  Since the 3 or 4 legs and brackets will be holding each of the heavy implents free-floating in the air above rolling dollies, I want to ensure they are plenty sturdy.  Sizes seem reasonable?  With only 0.04" total difference in the between the bracket ID and the legs' OD, I figure 3" bracket length should prevent any wobble.Thanks
Reply:My steel supplier, McNeilus Steel, sells telescoping tubing that's designed for just that. Otherwise I like to use 2" x .109" and 1-3/4" x whatever. And like others have said, weld a nut on and I really like using "clamping levers" to tighten it.John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:like they said, pipe. Get a piece of 2 1/2'' schedule 40 pipe to mount to the frame and 2'' schedule 40 for the inside. 2'' fits nicely in the 2 1/2''
Reply:Four pieces of flat bar welded together on outside corners makes great seamless square tubing receivers.   Clamp the four bars around whatever you are sleeving add a thin shim so you can gt it aprt after heat shrink and cut to size.   I have made many.    Don't forget to shim or you can thro it all on the recycle pile.Lincoln Electric:Ranger GXT 250SA-200LN-25Pro MiG 256Pro Mig 180Esab CV 251Invertec 160Victor Torches”
Reply:Things came up and just getting back around to ready to tackle this.  Am leaning toward Class II hitch tube (1-1/4) for the brackets  (maybe .120 wall for the legs).     I'm not finding any online metal retailers that list receiver tube.  Anyone have a good source?    I'll phone the local supplier this week but I'm not sure what to expect in the event this is a special order item.