New member needs some advice on welding table

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Hello all,I'm in the process of putting together a plan for a small welding table.  I've got limited space in my garage where I do most of my weldling.  I'm not looking for a fabrication table, just a table that I can weld up smaller projects on.Here's a sketch of what I'm thinking of building.  Legs are 3/16 2X2 angle, the upper and lower frames are 1/8 1 1/2X1 1/2 angle. I'm figuring on using 12 ga steel sheet for the bottom shelf covering.  For the top I'm thinking of 3/8" steel plate.  If I can get 1/2" for not too much more I'd probably go for that instead.  I'm planning on a 1 inch overlap on the sides and front so I'll have a place for clamps to grab.I'll put 3" wheels on the bottom of the legs so it will be mobile and include add-ons like places to store clamps, a mig nozzle holder, etc.The question I've got for all of you who have already done this is related to the steel for the top.  Regular hot rolled plate tends to be very rough and I don't want to spend a week trying to grind it smooth.  What's a good choice for a smooth top?  I've seen listings for pickled and oiled steel plate on some of the online dealers.  Is that a good option or should I look for SMS steel plate?  Reading through the posts on tables I've seen several where the table tops were ground smooth, but I'm not building parts for the space shuttle,I just would like to have a smooth top to keep everything straight.Any other tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.Last edited by Teikas Dad; 02-18-2013 at 09:11 PM.
Reply:Plans look good to me I would have a bigger edge than 1" if it were me. Regular steel hot rolled will work just fine you will grind on it anyway getting slag and tacks off of it and its plenty smooth and flat. Wheels are great you may want to consider a way to level the table and get it off the wheels.Donnelly Small Engine & WeldingFoley AlabamaLincoln 225 TigLinoln 215 migHypertherm Powermax 65Ellis 1600 sawEllis 6000 belt grinderJD2 Model 4 tubing benderAtlas  12"X54" metal latheLots of large hammers
Reply:Originally Posted by Teikas DadI'll put 3" wheels on the bottom of the legs so it will be mobile and include add-ons like places to store clamps, a mig nozzle holder, etc.
Reply:maybe a bar to hold either your grinders or clamps on is nice too.  If you are motivated, drill hole patterns and tap them for hold downs. (I've always wanted to do that one)Nice drawing though, google sketch?---No good deed goes unpunished---
Reply:my $0.02 add wheels, but also add the leveling device to get the wheels off the ground when in use. especially if you ever plan on hammering something on the table. I'd upgrade your top frame to 1/4" 2"x2" angle with the flat facing out instead of in. here's why. 1) your giving yourself 2" of gap on the outside edge which gives you more options on where to place your clamps. 2) the flange out gives you that much more metal to clamp to, makeing the edge of the table stronger and thus able to hold projects better. 3) If you miter the corners and make the frame  fit around the outside of your uprights you get a nice tight corner to weld  the frame too.As for the top. I'd say hot rolled is fine as well. 1/2" if you can get it, but 3/8 is ok. If you build the upper frame as discribed above you'd end up with 5/8" around the edge where you'll be clamping too anyway.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:make the bottom higher 3" is too small to store stuff in or sweep under....if you gonna weld on it get hotrolled or scrap..
Reply:One other option when space is a premium is to attach the thing to the wall and have it fold up and out of the way.  You can get away with more surface area that way, and never be tripping over it when it's not in use.  I have a welding table made of fairly thin steel (1/8"), but it's framed with 1/4" angle stock and it's plenty stout.  When it's not in use, it folds up and out of the way.  When it's down, I can do small or large jobs on it.  I also store some of my clamps behind it.Stowed: Down: In use:I started out with an idea similar to what you're talking about, but didn't like it for welding -- so I put it to use for holding equipment.Now it holds other stuff, and cradles around my table saw.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Thanks all.  This was my first attempt with Google Sketchup.  I am planning on including clamp racks, nozzle rack and other add ons but wanted to get the basic design on paper.After I posted the thread I started thinking about having the leg of the angle on the top frame face out.  I like that idea for making the edge thicker and stronger for clamping to.  2X2 sounds OK to me for the top frame to, it's only a couple of dollars more than 1 1/2X1 1/2.I couldn't figure out how to draw wheels under the legs so I left them out.  I'm planning on 3' wheels which will give me about 6 1/2" under the bottom shelf.  I'm going to steal an idea from one of my woodworking machine's portable bases and add a couple of 1/2" carriage bolts mounted upside down in a section of threaded sleeve on the lower portion of the legs on the ends.  That way I can crank them down to lift the table off the floor so it doesn't move and I can level it at the same time.The other thing I thought about if I used 3/8" for the top was to add a couple of front to back braces under the plate.  I've got some 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 X 1/8" square tubing that I can cut and weld to the frame and the bottom of the top plate to stiffen everything.Keep the ideas coming, you guys are the experts at this stuff!
Reply:Nice setup Jack, I like it!
Reply:Jack, is that a ceramic tile floor?  Looks too pretty to be welding in there.HF Dual Mig 151 with Bluewelders and Galaxieman's modsHF Digital Plasma TorchHF Blue Flames Hood70's era Craftsman 230 stick welderVictor 100 OA
Reply:OK, here's a plan of just the basic frame with wheels without the top.This one switched to 2X2 angle for the top frame and pointed the front and side legs out.  The top will then have approximately 2" (I know,minus 3/16" for material thickness of leg) of overhang on the front and two sides.I'll still add on things like clamp rack, nozzle holder, etc. when I build it.
Reply:google sketch will come to you the more you use it. the table seems to be on the right track. I also like the ideal of turning the angle out for the top. keep us postedJobSmart MIG125Lincoln AC225-SLincoln Pro-Mig 175Dewalt GrindersRidgid ChopsawIR Garage Mate CompressorAny thing worth doing, is worth doing right.
Reply:I designed a table the same size as that.  Designed for stick welding with lower shelf for storage, but then I purchased a TIG welder.   Now the bottom shelf in in the way, sigh.  If you are remotely interested in purchasing a TIG welder for the future, you will definitely want to sit at the table, with foot pedal direcly under the table,  I also added a removable vise to my table.  There are lots of postings with photos on Weldingweb for removable bench mounted vises..  I also second the idea of drilling or slotting the top to aid in parts hold down.  Good luck with the project.--zipLast edited by zipzit; 02-20-2013 at 12:21 AM.
Reply:I would move the upper frame to the outside of the veriticles, that way you're not having to cut/grind down the corner of your joint to fit the inside radius of the vertical legs. the outside is a right angle. fit up is nice and tight with a lot less work.Personally I don't like shelves under my work tables Just a place to catch debri and crap.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerI would move the upper frame to the outside of the veriticles, that way you're not having to cut/grind down the corner of your joint to fit the inside radius of the vertical legs. the outside is a right angle. fit up is nice and tight with a lot less work.Personally I don't like shelves under my work tables Just a place to catch debri and crap.
Reply:I would change the angle iron to rect tube for a wee bit more rigidity, use tube or pipe for the legs, and get at least 4" of overhang, as that is what most c clamps will go. Also, that shelf on the bottom is going to be a toe buster, move it up to half way or so. I have found I don't like shelves on mine, as they do nothing but fill up with grinding dust, even with expanded, that dirt fills up on anything that is on the shelf.. Use as thick a top as you can afford, and also bump up the size of the casters to 4" minimum. Smaller casters tend to bend at the axle, and won't roll over small debris on the floor. Only use two casters and two fixed wheels. This will give you a side to push against, without having to lock them. I welded on mig gun holders years ago. They got so little use I cut them off. Put a bar across two legs to hold c clamps. I welded on some 4" ubolts (i made them with square corners) to hold grinders.
Reply:I put a center post on the table with the shelf a bit higher on mine so i can use my floor jack to move it around. But my table is 3/4 inch thick top so its almost 700#.  The bottom of the legs is 1" bolts for adjustment, so the table doesnt move if i need to crank on the vise. Buddy has big casters on his and hates it because it moves even when there locked. Also make sure to consider height very carefully because bending over gets old quick.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerI would change the angle iron to rect tube for a wee bit more rigidity, use tube or pipe for the legs, and get at least 4" of overhang, as that is what most c clamps will go. Also, that shelf on the bottom is going to be a toe buster, move it up to half way or so. I have found I don't like shelves on mine, as they do nothing but fill up with grinding dust, even with expanded, that dirt fills up on anything that is on the shelf.. Use as thick a top as you can afford, and also bump up the size of the casters to 4" minimum. Smaller casters tend to bend at the axle, and won't roll over small debris on the floor. Only use two casters and two fixed wheels. This will give you a side to push against, without having to lock them. I welded on mig gun holders years ago. They got so little use I cut them off. Put a bar across two legs to hold c clamps. I welded on some 4" ubolts (i made them with square corners) to hold grinders.
Reply:Wheels (Even with locks) and welding tables do not play well together.Major problems arise if BIG hammers are needed for persuasion at times..Take the pic above for example..Those would be broken off within 10 mins where I am....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:OK, here's the latest version....I think this is what I'm going to go with.  I'm getting better with Sketch Up!The square tube will cost a couple bucks more than the steel angle, but I think it's going to be a stronger table.  I also added a couple cross braces to strengthen the top.  I'm figuring on a 28" X 38" top so I'll have a 2" overhang on the front and ends.  To keep it strong enough I'm figuring on 3/8" plate (unless I can find 1/2" that doesn't break the bank). Attached Images
Reply:I too agree with other posts.. more overhang. 2 inches is not enough.
Reply:you guys are forgetting that he's got space constraints. 2'x3' with a 4" overhang leaves him with a 16"x28" base. that's not going to be stable enough for putting large items on. with the thickness of the top, and the use of angle Iron He's going to be able to clamp inside the frame too, just not with as much meat to clamp too. It's still usable clamping surface.save the corners.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Might be better to have a 4" overhang on one side and none on the other.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenOne other option when space is a premium is to attach the thing to the wall and have it fold up and out of the way.  You can get away with more surface area that way, and never be tripping over it when it's not in use.  I have a welding table made of fairly thin steel (1/8"), but it's framed with 1/4" angle stock and it's plenty stout.  When it's not in use, it folds up and out of the way.  When it's down, I can do small or large jobs on it.  I also store some of my clamps behind it.
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammeryou guys are forgetting that he's got space constraints. 2'x3' with a 4" overhang leaves him with a 16"x28" base. that's not going to be stable enough for putting large items on. with the thickness of the top, and the use of angle Iron He's going to be able to clamp inside the frame too, just not with as much meat to clamp too. It's still usable clamping surface.save the corners.No matter what you do, after a few uses you will think of a dozen things that you wish you would have done.HF Dual Mig 151 with Bluewelders and Galaxieman's modsHF Digital Plasma TorchHF Blue Flames Hood70's era Craftsman 230 stick welderVictor 100 OA
Reply:A nice folding desing, Ilike It, furthermore a very 5´S Clean desing... kudos!!!