Boeshield T-9 Lubricant

admin

I've got a few older tools in need of being cleaned up. Here's an example-----Normally, I'd use WD40 on them. Has anyone ever used Boeshield T-9 Lubricant? Is it as great of a product as the reviews say it is and is it REALLY worth $15, http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corr...e-gardeners-20MM 211Smith Tru Lite O/A set, Thanks Bob!Lincoln AC-225--But you must not change one thing, one pebble, one grain of sand, until you know what good and evil will follow on that act. The world is in balance, in Equilibrium- Ursula K. Le Guin
Reply:I've heard good things about it but can't say for sure. WD40 is the last thing I use on something like that. It's about the bottom of the heap in my book. Most other decent penetrating oils can be matched fairly closely with a thin oil (transmission fluid, engine oil) thinned with a evaporating thinner (naptha, mineral spirits, etc.).   However I've recently got ahold of some penetrating oil that works better than anything I've tried before. http://www.freealloil.com/freeall.html Not cheap but not as expensive as the Boeshield.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:I used it on all my tools for years, but the last 4 spray cans went TU almost immediately.The part the spray nozzle went on clogged and could'nt be cleared.I had to drain the can into a spray bottle,messy and wasteful.I am using Corrosion X now and like it better.
Reply:I put it on like I'm not paying for it.  We use it in the marine industry, but not as a penetrant. It works more like a coeosion inhibitor.Miller Big 40GMiller HF-251 D High FreqVictor OA Lincoln 135 MigMK 3A CobramaticBridgeport J HeadCronatron OxylanceRadnor ACAG TorchWeldcraft TIG Torches1 blown knee and two 5 Gallon pails away from being a hero.
Reply:I agree with using something like T-9 after the rust has been removed. I use Amsoil HD-MP heavy duty metal protector on my vises and lathe chucks because it does not attract dust. Many of the machinists I know use T-9 on their  precision equipment.I got this Reed tripod at a flea market for $15 and used a nylon wire wheel. It worked perfectly and took all the rust/paint off very easily.TOO MANY TOOLS & NO MORE SPACE
Reply:Penetrating oils and lubricating oils are two different things. Penetrating oils are used to free up stuck or rusty mechanisms but are not generally good lubricants. Some, including WD-40, evaporate completely and do not leave a protective film.Someone on the AWS site did a relatively scientific test of penetrating oils and found that a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone worked better than anything else, including expensive proprietary oils like Kroil. As a side benefit, the ATF does leave a protective film.There are heavier lubricants / protectants like Cosmolene which leave a waxy or greasy film that protects very well but must be removed completely before welding or painting. As always, it's just a matter of using the right tool for the job.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Originally Posted by Silicon-basedPenetrating oils and lubricating oils are two different things. Penetrating oils are used to free up stuck or rusty mechanisms but are not generally good lubricants. Some, including WD-40, evaporate completely and do not leave a protective film.Someone on the AWS site did a relatively scientific test of penetrating oils and found that a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone worked better than anything else, including expensive proprietary oils like Kroil. As a side benefit, the ATF does leave a protective film.There are heavier lubricants / protectants like Cosmolene which leave a waxy or greasy film that protects very well but must be removed completely before welding or painting. As always, it's just a matter of using the right tool for the job.John
Reply:For rust protection, Fluid Film is good, though it does require a certain film thickness.  But it's not particularly toxic like some stuff, though it is rumored to taste terrible.  It's based on Lanolin.  Ever see a rusty sheep?  I get it at BAP-GEON auto parts for $8. a can.  John Deere equipment dealers sell it.  I guess farmers use it to prevent rust on some of the expensive equipment."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:So was it the PB Blaster or the Free All. I say the PB Blaster did the most.
Reply:The PB Blaster was kinda sorta working but not well. As soon as I sprayed a small amount of the free all in and turned it withing 1/4 turn it was free. Before we had made at least three turns with the PB Blaster without any real improvement.   I've always thought PB Blaster was one of the better ones out there at least the easily available and reasonably priced ones. Having used this new stuff for a few weeks now I can say it's a night and day difference between the two.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumFor rust protection, Fluid Film is good, though it does require a certain film thickness.  But it's not particularly toxic like some stuff, though it is rumored to taste terrible.  It's based on Lanolin.  Ever see a rusty sheep?  I get it at BAP-GEON auto parts for $8. a can.  John Deere equipment dealers sell it.  I guess farmers use it to prevent rust on some of the expensive equipment.
Reply:Equilibrium - Boeshield T-9 Lubricant This is a post from 6-22-2013 . . .   http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...hlight=boelubewelding_kid - Drilling CoolantsDepending on application, I'll use every fluid mentioned.My current favorite is BOELUBE - www.boelube.com.au/paste.html.The solid variety's consistency is between ivory soap and paraffin.Its clean, works on a broad range of 'sharp tool' applications, and is portable.Even loose in a tool box it doesn't corrupt nor make a mess.Your best source is a machine tool supplier, and recently the localFastenal started to carry it.OpusCheck boelube.com for their many variants.  B-L has been around for years, but only recently has it become available in smaller quantities and packaged for the more general user.  Be wary - prices vary widely.Open question:  Does anyone have experience running BOELUBE fluid: in band or cold saws?I've run cold-saws for 35 years, and all fluids I have sampled have performed well.  The nuisance is cleaning the cut piece for TIG, and the dried sticky build-up on the saw.I have TIG'ed countless 'drilled and taped' pieces that had BoeLube [dry block] melted all over it.  The BOELUBE flaked when scraped, and the residual posed no problem at all [vaporized?] when welding.This good out-come has been with the block - and the only B-L product I have used.  Can anyone report how BOELUBE saw fluid behaves for cleans-up on cut piece, and what does it, 'grow' on the saw?Opus.Last edited by OPUS FERRO; 09-01-2014 at 10:15 PM.Reason: you can't cap without caps.
Reply:I see upon re-reading my initial post that I was about as clear as mud.... I should have included that it was my intent to remove all the rust before using a product like T-9 as a rust preventative. I was looking for a protectant. Oopsie. --That being said..... there is a considerable amount of rust on that vise and now I'm leaning toward cleaning it up by using Free All instead of the PB Blaster I've used before when something was locked up. --I've got other tools that are relatively surface rust free that I'm leaning toward using Fluid Film on. I'm actually one of those people who reads MSDS sheets.... no solvents in the product and nothing that's known to be carcinogenic or mutagenic. --OPUS FERRO> I can't comment. I had little or no familiarity with the majority of the products discussed above and admittedly have no clue what's in the little oil can I use when drilling holes. Could be BOELUBE. I'll have to ask. The thread you sent me to was a very good read. Lots of information in it to keep in the back of my head. I subscribed to it so I could find it again so thank you for adding a link to it.MM 211Smith Tru Lite O/A set, Thanks Bob!Lincoln AC-225--But you must not change one thing, one pebble, one grain of sand, until you know what good and evil will follow on that act. The world is in balance, in Equilibrium- Ursula K. Le Guin
Reply:I wouldn't completely remove the rust.  Is it causing you problems?  Remember that a thin layer of brown (staining, not crust) actually helps prevent more rust.I'd give it a stiff brushing, oil it, and then wipe and oil a few times until a paper towel isn't turning brown/orange any more.  Once you can pick it up without getting your hands black, it's clean enough.Boeshield T9 is GREAT in the marine industry.  It leaves behind a thick film that protects metal.  Especially electrical connectors.However, it is awful on tools, because it leaves things waxy/greasy.WD-40 is a lousy lubricant, and lousy at preventing corrosion.  But it does a good job at displacing water (it's original intent), and is a decent degreaser and cleaner.  I like it on braided cables (like garage door cables and ground straps), but not for this.If you're just looking for an oil to wipe on to prevent rust, don't look at penetrating oils, and don't look at lubricants.Look at gun oils.  For this, the best stuff I've found is Birchwood Casey G96 Gun Treatment.Last edited by rlitman; 09-02-2014 at 11:15 AM.
Reply:EWL Slip 2000 is pretty awesome stuff... One of the guys off of calguns(i think) took a couple of cleaned sheets of steel and treated them with almost every oil on the market, then left them outside for a month or two... The Slip 2000 did the best out of everything and had no rust on almost all of the test coupons. I use it on machine parts that I know are going to unused for a while, in the humid Austin weather I have yet to see surface rust...
Reply:Boeshield T9 is popular in the woodworking/wood lathe arena, and has a great reputation. Woodturners in particular tend to work with really wet wood, which leaves very wet shavings sitting on the lathe bed. It can cause rust in less than 5 minutes on clean cast iron. We also don't want to use oil coatings like machinists do, for fear of transferring them onto the wood and having issues with water based finishes. T9 is well respected for preventing rust on raw cast iron machine parts.