n00b needs help with AL GTAW

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Hey guys,i just bought a syncrowave 210 and im absolutely loving getting back into welding. I welded a little in college but its been about 6 years since ive touched a tig and apparently it really shows haha. Anyway i seem to have my stainless down just fine but im having a hell of a time with aluminum and i want to make sure my setup is correct. I learned on aluminum (backwards right?) and i dont ever remember having this much trouble with it in the past.So here is what i have:- welding on 1/8" practice pieces- using 3/32 2% ceriated with 3/32 4043 filler- #6 cup, CK gas lens- using anywhere between 90 and 175A- cleaning the **** out of the piece im using with an aluminum only wire brush and then using acetone on both the piece and the filler (if its one thing i learned its that cleaning usually makes all the difference)- 100% argon set to 15-17 CFM- balance set to 60%- 0 PPSHere is my problem:As soon as i strike my arc the piece seems to oxidize immediately. If i bring the heat up it gets better but if im doing anything but welding in the middle of a flat plate to practice its horrible. If im doing a lap weld, the piece on top always oxidizes as soon as i get my arc anywhere near it. Questions:- As soon as i see my puddle and i go to add filler, the rod turns into a blob at the end and immediately pulls away from the puddle leaving me with a mess and having to start over, does this indicate the puddle not being large enough?- i have experimented with a balled end vs a pointed tip and the ball seems to work a little better but everything i read says you want a pointy tip for both AL and SS, is this not true?- ive tried varying argon flow from 7 to 20 CHF, changed balance between 60 and 80% (this is all im limited to), experimented a little with setting the PPS, but all have little affect. Does anyone have any advice for where these should be?- it seems if i add a bunch of heat in the beginning and bring the piece up to temp that i am at least able to get the first tack started and after that i can usually continue decently well, could not applying enough amperage in the beginning cause the piece to oxidize immediately?sorry that i dont have any pictures but i can take some if that helps you guys out at all. I really need someone local to me to come check my settings and make sure im not missing something small. Anyone local to Columbia, MD =D- TIA!!!looking for a Miller Diversion 180! PM me!!!
Reply:#6 cup uses 12 to 15 cfh argon. Your torch angle will be nearly vertical for start. As soon as you see the melt, don't just advance the rod, poke it in fast and with authority. Remember that your arc gap is about the distance of the diameter of your tungsten. Speaking of tungsten, don't ball it back and start with a pointed tip, same as for DC welding and let it ball back on it's own a tad. Maintain some taper for precision.High speed pulse on AC is a waste of arc, but does wonders with DC. Leave it off for alum.Check your collet body to see if it is seated, and your collet to see if it is kinked or crushed. You may also have bad gas or greasy gloves, both of which contribute to hard starts. If your weld is brownish or speckled you have bad gas or bad gas delivery like a hole in our back cap, or missing o-ring, or blocked gas-hole in the torch, or hole in your gas hose. I use a portable flow meter on my torch to verify gas delivery to my torch, so I know it matches the flowmeter on the tank.To sum it up, verticle torch angle, sharp tungsten, hit the pedal hard at 200 amps, and cram the rod fast when you see the puddle, and move immediately to your next dip. Then on can taper off the ac some.Good luck and have fun!Last edited by shovelon; 09-17-2014 at 07:12 AM.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:.......don't just advance the rod, poke it in fast and with authority.
Reply:So after reading these two threads,http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...Aluminum-Beadshttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...light=Aluminumim 100% convinced its my gas. All the picts and descriptions of what their problems were are identical to mine. Im going to bring my bottle back and see if they will exchange for free.looking for a Miller Diversion 180! PM me!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by HT2-4956We are talking about welding, right?
Reply:Originally Posted by superskaterxesAs soon as i strike my arc the piece seems to oxidize immediately. If i bring the heat up it gets better but if im doing anything but welding in the middle of a flat plate to practice its horrible. If im doing a lap weld, the piece on top always oxidizes as soon as i get my arc anywhere near it. Questions:- As soon as i see my puddle and i go to add filler, the rod turns into a blob at the end and immediately pulls away from the puddle leaving me with a mess and having to start over, does this indicate the puddle not being large enough?- i have experimented with a balled end vs a pointed tip and the ball seems to work a little better but everything i read says you want a pointy tip for both AL and SS, is this not true?- ive tried varying argon flow from 7 to 20 CHF, changed balance between 60 and 80% (this is all im limited to), experimented a little with setting the PPS, but all have little affect. Does anyone have any advice for where these should be?- it seems if i add a bunch of heat in the beginning and bring the piece up to temp that i am at least able to get the first tack started and after that i can usually continue decently well, could not applying enough amperage in the beginning cause the piece to oxidize immediately?
Reply:It would be unfortunate if you received C25 or a Mig mix for your Tig setup. Definitely would be no bueno.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveAre you adding heat fast enough?  You should puddle and be ready to weld in 3 seconds or less.If you are not, it's a good indicator that you are not using enough amps.Let the puddle form distinctly - it should be mirror looking.Having the rod ball up and make a blobbed mess also happens when not using enough amps.Your comment about "oxidize immediately" (getting frosty looking) also is an indicator that you are trying to "sneak up" on the amps.But of course, if your gas is bad none of this advice will help
Reply:Originally Posted by superskaterxesi would definitely say i tend to "creep up" on the amperage and i have noticed that when i dive into it, i seem to have better results but it just seems to inconsistent. SS is so effortless that trying to apply even remotely the same techniques to AL yields poor results and makes you think twice that something is wrong.