weld positioner

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has anyone ever made one?
Reply:I have yet to see plans online...but that doesn't mean they don't exist or someone hasn't tried. Zap just got his and was more than willing to take apart his gas mixer and show pics. Perhaps he will take apart his positioner and take pics. I think the biggest issue would be the gear reduction and control speed. Other than that, looks like a simple turn table.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I saw a small one on ebay and it got me thinking that it couldn't be that hard to build.Surplus electronics houses have cheap gear reduction motors for sale all the time.Maybe a couple of bearings, chain sprockets, tensioner, foot pedal and a speed controller would put it all together in short order.  If the parts you want to move aren't that heavy, maybe a belt drive or even direct drive would make it all that much simpler.  I have an electric gear reduction motor on my cement mixer that has a housing and bearings strong enough to support a few cf of wet concrete without any other separate bearings or supports (the drum mounts directly to the end of the gear motor output shaft).  If you could find one like that for cheap enough, a table welded or bolted to it and a speed control might do the job.How much weight/size are you looking to move?
Reply:Originally Posted by steve28has anyone ever made one?
Reply:It wouldn't be hard to build but you would have to be ready to spend some bucks on a motor and controler and a few other specialized components. I think you should try to buy one used before you rush into something._________________Chris
Reply:Perhaps he will take apart his positioner and take pics. I think the biggest issue would be the gear reduction and control speed.
Reply:Those are pics of the OUTSIDE...which are very nice pictures. We wanna see the GUTS of that there rotating thingy machine. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Originally Posted by MicroZoneThose are pics of the OUTSIDE...which are very nice pictures. We wanna see the GUTS of that there rotating thingy machine.
Reply:I don't have the deep pockets to buy one.   So, I don't have one. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Zap's probably too busy using his to take it apart! I have one like his, and I'll take it apart and get some pictures and maybe some part numbers if you're all interested.-------------john
Reply:Originally Posted by jptechZap's probably too busy using his to take it apart! I have one like his, and I'll take it apart and get some pictures and maybe some part numbers if you're all interested.-------------john
Reply:Very cool John ! If we could come up with a general parts list, maybe more of us can have positioners. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterCool!  Your turn...Be aware..I could'nt get the plate off the shaft so it will come apart together..When you take the screws off the top you have to turn the top counter clockwise (I think) so the motor will clear the dial pots..Go slow ..Take your time..And when you go to put it back together..If you do take the shaft out.. when re-installing you need to grab the ground strap inside the unit and pull it out (spring loaded).You'll see what I mean......zap!
Reply:Ok, got the pics. I just have to resize them so I can post. Barring any problems  they'll be up later, with some specs, and info. It looks pretty simple to make!!! ---------------john
Reply:If you don't want to resize, shoot them over to my e-mail and i'll host them. Thanks!John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Ok, here's part one of the pics. The next installment will follow! Attached Images
Reply:Here's the last few. Looks pretty simple to make one. I can take dimensions, and draw up some prints- for educational purposes only, of course! The first thing would be to find the motor/reduction combo, then go from there. No info on the motor - probably so no one will reverse engineer it!   The reduction is: 4 in/lbs torque, 16 RPM, 432:1 Ratio. The unit is from Bodine Electric Co. If they aren't around any more, Baldor would probably be the best bet for this. The shaft runs inside a tube with bronze bushings on each end. The ground is a spring loaded plunger of graphite that makes contact with the shaft. The motor is isolated from the case with a sheet of (looks like) asbestos! Take a look at the pictures, and see what you all think! --------------john  Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by MicroZoneIf you don't want to resize, shoot them over to my e-mail and i'll host them. Thanks!
Reply:Very interesting, great pics John. That does look simple to re-make for educational purposes.  So, the work clamp for the welder is attached to that cable that is attached to the bronze bushing? I found a few motors on eBang that might work.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I heard someone made a small one from a 7amp drill, not sure how that would work.
Reply:I was thinking about using either the HF cord or cordless drills by relocating the trigger or using the HF 2k lb. winch. The control for the winch is perfect and I've seen a few people use it on their HF Bead Rollers. Now to figure out how to get the ground to work?John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Originally Posted by steve28has anyone ever made one?
Reply:A very simple and effective rotary ground can be made by wrapping braided copper strap material 180 degrees around the main shaft of the positioner and holding tension on this with a spring.  This is the way Jetline does some of their positioners.  I copied this concept for a custom industrial MIG application, ran it on several systems for years, works great and its cheap/easy.I've worked with all kinds of rotating ground arrangements including graphalloy material, bronze sleeves with conductive grease (what a mess), and $5000 custom mercury grounds.The braided copper strap works fine.Not sure of a souce, but this link shows what it looks like.http://www.wintexmetal.com/braided.htmlHere's some misc. links.http://www.mercotac.com/html/1250.htmlhttp://www.profax-lenco.com/Lenco_main.htmhttp://www.graphalloy.com/index.htm
Reply:Great information Pulsar, thanks for sharing the links. That is a great idea to run that around the shaft!John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:This unit has plug of graphite, about .5 in diameter, fitting into a pocket (the boss on the side of the shaft housing) that has a spring in it. There's a stud out of the boss that the strap bolts to, and runs to the lug on the housing. (it's a real pita to re-assemble, ask Zap-he's been there!  ) It works like a brush on a motor for constant contact. I don't think I got a good enough picture of it to be easy to see. -----------johnOOPS!!! just saw in the third pic that the ground strap is laying on the motor!! The motor has to be isolated or  Sorry 'bout that!!-----john