Building a railing and need advice

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I'm going to tackle two railings in my home.  I have a general plan for dimensional sizes of what we will be using but haven't made solid decisions yet.  I have a question as to what type of steel to use.  The plan is to get everything powder coated, but I'm not sure I really want to go that route if there are installation tweaks to be made. What I'd really like to know, is what I should get for tubing for the newels and bar for the ballisters.  If will basically be a square tube for newels with bar stock running horizontally for ballisters.  Not sure if there will be a wood top to act as a grab rail or will just try something with a piece of steel tube that meets graspability requirements.So: thinking 2.5" x2.5" either 1/8" or 3/16" wall newel posts.  They will be welded to a plate that is bolted to the floor.  It seems something this size is only available in hot rolled tubing.  Does this exist in cold rolled or no?  For the flat ballister sections I'm thinking 1/4"- 3/8" x 1 1/2"- 2" flat bar.  This seems to be available in hot and colled rolled.  My knowledge on metal types is pretty limited.  I would appreciate any advice you guys are willing to give.  I'll be tig welding everything. Thanks, Nick.
Reply:Why do you want 2 1/2" tube, is it for looks? Why 1/8" and 3/16"? Why cold rolled?Why bolted to the floor? Do you mind having bolts showing?Why tig welding?Order you a King Archetectural catalog and it will help you out immensely.
Reply:Originally Posted by BobWhy do you want 2 1/2" tube, is it for looks? Why 1/8" and 3/16"? Why cold rolled?Why bolted to the floor? Do you mind having bolts showing?Why tig welding?Order you a King Archetectural catalog and it will help you out immensely.
Reply:It just seems to me that you are trying to make the project as expensive and as time consuming as possible.
Reply:Can you get 11 feet into position inside the house.  I would go with as this wall as possible 16 or 14g.  The thinner wall tubing usually doesn't have scale on. Depending on the spacing and desired look 11 g will work for balusters too.  Can you fitup everything in the house before going to the powder coater. Bolts to attach the rail together inside.  Oil is my nemesis,  I would rather deal with scale than oil and residue-- At least for railing
Reply:Originally Posted by BobIt just seems to me that you are trying to make the project as expensive and as time consuming as possible.
Reply:Here are some pics similar to what I'm thinking of. Yes, I can get the whole thing into the house in one piece.  I was going to tack it together in place.  Figured that would be the safest thing to do. I was going to do the whole L in one shot.  Figured it would be cleaner look.
Reply:1/4" minimum on the balusters.  I visualized them running hardway. Perhaps you could frame it inside and finish off site.  If working inside the tig is the way to go.  If powder coat, then make sure price includes sandblasting.  Powder coat does not hide grind marks or pin holes.  Hope you have good mounting points under the wood, especially for the step rails.  For small imperfections I use original jb weld, that I off-gas prior to applying. For larger jobs I have a product called Chem-lab, though I have never used it.Good luck.
Reply:As I'm getting closer to this project I'm having a tough time deciding on baluster stock.  I am going to use either 3/8"x1 1/2" or 1/2"x1 1/2" flat stock for the balusters.  I have a span of about 44"(3'-8").  Do you guys feel that the 3/8" stock will be sufficient?  I would like to keep the weight down as much as possible.  For comparison, I have seen a railing with 3/8"x2" flat stock as balusters that spans 47" and it is plenty beefy.  I am going to try to get my hands on some smaller pieces of each to mock it up, but would be interested in everyones' opinion.  thanks, Nick.
Reply:3/8" is fine. Hot rolled is fine for everything in the project. Might be best to build the perimeter, then tack in a piece of 1/4, 1/2, and 3/8" flatbar for the balusters and see what you like best.
Reply:Use tubing instead of solid bar cheaper and stronger
Reply:1.5" dia tubing is standard for industrial hand rail. 2.5" dia tubing is much more difficult to hold onto. This can be a safety issue for youngsters descending down stairs.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Horizontal bars that children can climb will often be rejected by a building inspector.  If the construction is not going to be inspected then no worries.  Codes vary between regions.
Reply:So I'm moving along. I tacked the posts to the floor plates and have to take them off to fully weld them. I cleaned off the tubing with a flap wheel for tacking on the horizontal flat bar. I'm wondering if I should clean the whole tube off or will the sand blasting take care of the differences between where I ran the wheel and didn't? I can feel a slight difference with my fingers.  Will it be noticeable after sand blast and powder coat? I'll post some pics when I get to a computer. Can't attach with my phone. Thanks
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Reply:Depends how aggressive the blasting is I'd guess - when I blast my own stuff the surface had a very even texture.Secure that cylinder!  Or lay it down and turn the regulator for that position.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I'll lay it down.  Thanks.  I couldn't get my cart up there, so I was wondering what to do with the cylinder.  I'll make a sled for it so I can lay it down and not have it roll. I'll take a closer pic of what I've ground.  I think I'll just hit the rest of it. Not is really easy to do, just time consuming.