Plasma project ??

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Hey guys, I got my new Thermo Dynamic 51 awhile back, what a machine. I have a question about a project. I am building a gate, framed out with 1x1 tubing looking a bit like craftsman style wood working and am going to put a 22"x28" sheet in the middle with a mountain/elk scene cut into it with the plasma. Is there a thickness that would be best for this sheet. I was thinking 11 guage, is that enough or will it warp when cut? Thanks for the help.
Reply:I do some art work like this and I use 1/8 plate. 11 gauge should work fine depanding on the weight of the gate and if the steel is going to be subject to some of the stress of supporting the frame. Over all weight is also a factor.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:Thanks for the response jamlit. When doing the cut out designs are there any hints that are helpful to know?
Reply:Tune your machine down so that you arent heating it so much that it warps.  Many just crank to full blast and run with it.  There's a reason you can turn it down!Lots of air, but turn the cutter's A's down to where its efficient.  Stencil it out too.ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Thanks for the help. I probably would have just kept it cranked, good to know.
Reply:i have the same machine i would go .100 or .125 it will zip threw the thinner stuff lightning fast only problem is you probably cant follow your stencil that fast one things for sure you can have some fun trying350P 30A spool gun cut master 51  syncro 250 other stuff " take a dog off the street and make him prosper and he will not bite you sad the same cannot be said for man" i didnt use punctuation just to piss you off
Reply:I have a small plasma cutter, a 25amp Lincoln. It does really well on thin stainless, 16 ga. making small brackets and tabs, with no real distortion. I do a lot of steel cutting with it, too. It really lets material stay flat. As for the dross that sticks to the bottom side, just smack it off like knocking off the glaze from a stick weld. It comes off nicely that way, makes for a lot less grinding/ cleanup.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Half the problem will be that it will want to blast faster than you can trace!  Heck, yesterday I finally got onto some 3/4" plate with my Cutmaster 38.  Turned all the way up its still doing better than I can keep up (maintaining a perfect straight 90* angle and all).  These are highly under rated IMHO.Oh yeah, and I got to try out the Miller 375 Xtreme yesterday in my garage (same power outlet/air compressor).  The 1/2" cuts were good, but not as nice/clean as the Cutmaster 38.  Would'nt do the 3/4" plate though.ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Thanks for the help fellas, hopfully cutting will start tomorrow , did some sketches of elk and mountains today, turned out pretty good. Should turn out to be a cool gate for my deck.
Reply:OK, another question. Got it all cut out and welded into the frame. Turned out pretty sweet. I'll try to get some pics to share with you guys. Anyway, I want to shine up and heat treat the art work and spray with clear coat. I have tried 80grit flap wheel, doesn't really touch the black layer. Should I use a grinder disk? Thanks.