metal and pipe cutting equipment

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Thanks to everyone on this board with all the help and input they have given to this point. After much thought, I ended up pursuing the purchase of a multi-process welder and paid $1400 for a lightly used Miller XMT-304 and am starting off with the stick process. I went with a twist lock Bernard shortstub and couldn't be happier and today I ran some beads and produced a few wreck anchors and of course stuck and lit up some rods. Now I have a few questions about metal/pipe cutting equipment:Please make your recommendations of brand, model and why?For cutting cold rolled and hot rolled solid stock would a chop saw be better than a metal band saw?I tried speaking with a grizzly tool customer service rep and they were more confused than I, but when a metal band saws description states it will cut 45-90 degrees does that mean it will cut in 1 degree increments through that range or does it have solid/dedicated stops at certain angles?Is there a manufacturer of a band saw or chop saw that will cut 1-90 degrees without breaking the bank?Can a miter saw (i.e. wood saw) be turned into a ferrous metal cutting tool with some aftermarket blade and if so will it just trash it for any future carpenty work?For now I am interested in a 4.5" grinder. Any brands out there that have quick change features that would rapidly allow the change from grinder/cut off disc to wire wheel to wire cup easily?Or should I just purchase a few cheaper grinders and set them up with the different attachments?I have more questions but will save them for another day. Thanks in advance, jwr2200.
Reply:I usually use strictly Bosch grinders.  They seem to hold up best of any I have used.  The Millwaukee's do well also.  As far as what to get, it depends on what you will be cutting, and how big of material will you be dealing with.  Most saws chopsaw or bandsaw will cut from 90 degrees to 45 degrees infinitely.  If you are looking for a bandsaw there are a few foriegn made small saws capable of cutting 4" x 6" that do fairly well.  Chopsaws will cut faster, but its louder, and you have to stand there while you cut.  Tell us more about what you will be doing and we can recommend something for you that might suit your needs.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:I wouldn't bother converting a mitersaw to cut steel. I chop saw is a cheaper way for cutting steel but I recommend a bandsaw far above a chopsaw. Both will cut 90 though to 45 degrees as stated above. As to minigrinders, I only buy Walters now. I have some other brands I bought over the years still in use but the Walters are the best in my opinion.  I have a 7x12 bandsaw, and a TD cutmaster 38 plasma cutter, and several 4.5 - 5.0 inch minigrinders. These are my main steel cutting tools. I also have a sawzall and and jig saw I use sometimes when needed.I have used several things for cutting steel over the years and I wish I had of bit the bullet and bought a bandsaw from the start. Hope this helps. Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:You don't want to do the mitersaw conversion. Blades are expensive and not really made for heavy stock. A good horizontal bandsaw will probably do you best, sounds like you want some fairly accurate angles. Use good bi-metal blades in it and get one with coolant if you can. Some have a few preset angles, other angles you set up with a angle gauge. Chopsaws are still handy for cutting off stock also but bandsaw is the most versatile I think. Get a couple of good small grinders(4.5-5"), walters,bosch, milwaukee and makita are all good tough brands. Don't know of any that have a quick change feature, so have a few set up is easy enough. I have a large grinder but very seldom use it except with a big wire cup brush for heavy cleanup. Definitely get a plasma when money allows, Great for internal,intricate cuts,demolition and saves on the gas too.Latest Toys Miller 180 Mig and Elite Mask!!Wright Welder 225ACShop OutFitters 20/20 Bending SystemHypertherm 380 Plasma30 Years of Sparking (Electrical & Welding)
Reply:Originally Posted by jwr2200For cutting cold rolled and hot rolled solid stock would a chop saw be better than a metal band saw?  NOIs there a manufacturer of a band saw or chop saw that will cut 1-90 degrees without breaking the bank?  HF, vert\horz, wet\dry...~$700Or should I just purchase a few cheaper grinders and set them up with the different attachments?  Yes
Reply:Horizontal bandsaw w/ coolant for production and/or accuracy.Several angle grinders. HF's work OK for inexpensive throwaways ($15).Plasma - ASAPCut-off saw for quick chops when you don't want to wait for the bandsaw.Hobart 140 Handler w/ gasHyperTherm Powermax 380 Plasmaoxy/acetylene
Reply:Given the choice of one or hte other, drop bandsaw wins over a chopsaw every time. Even an inexpensive one will cut cleaner and be more versatile, with less noise and mess. (Going by what you said your needs are... If you were to say you needed to be able to hack up rebar all day, every day, the chop saw would win hands down, but htat is all 90 deg cuts, with a ood bit of slop allowable)I have several 4.5" grinders (I find them generally most versatile, but keep a 4" around fo tight spots, and 7 and 9"ers in the shop), one good one, and cheapies dedicated to individual jobs. One with wire brush, one with a flap wheel, one with a hard wheel, etc. They get most of the use, since they are set up, but the good one comes out if I'll be grinding for a couple hours, or doing a lot of cutting, or... I found that I much prefer multiple tools set up always... even the quick change setups take time. Saved me at least an hour saturday-- had to cut out a bad weld (not mine... I found the flaws while magging it. Had to dig someone else to mag my repairs) -- 5/8"fillet with trapped slag and lack of fusion between passes -- and it was cutoff wheel and hard wheel, back and forth, while I chased out the flaws. Changing disks would have taken more time than the tools wre actually running.
Reply:I know of only one grinder with a "quick change" feature and thats the metabo.  The truth is that for the money of a metabe you can buy two or three good grinders and have them set up for different tasks.  You can also buy all you grinding discks and wire wheel and now even cuting discks with the threaded arbor adaptor if you want a "quicker change" option.  They do cost a small fraction more though.  But get a plasma asap. Its probably the best cutting tool, and the best bandsaw you can buy for precise cuts. Just my .02
Reply:Read the post I put up last week. use the search button at the top of the forum page. Look for "whats the better cutter". Read the reply left by Moonrise. Its more info than you will ever need on the topic. Almost all band saws will cut more than 90. Usually 45 one direction, and 55 the other. The miter clamp will swing freely through that range and clamp down anywhere you want. Northerntool.com sells a home shop model for $164 + truck shipping. It has gotten good reviews saying its a good deal for the price. You only need to be 2% smarter than what you are working on.Lincoln pm140hacksawa big hammer
Reply:Keep in mind a band saw will also give you the ability to work stainless,Hot saws will also ."Chop saw"  is not a term much used in Oz that's one of the Tungsten tipped drop saws right? would not go cutting stainless with that ,  though they do say the manufacturers have specific blades for Stainless I would be inclined to use a band saw first...we do at work.If its for home you will be able to work later with out annoying people due to noise also.
Reply:Originally Posted by Brett"Chop saw"  is not a term much used in Oz that's one of the Tungsten tipped drop saws right?
Reply:I can use my HF bandsaw in the basement while the family is sleeping on the 2nd floor. That alone makes it the choice for me.I also think a bandsaw has a much lower 'nastiness' factor all around than a high-speed abrasive disk.And I'm continually amazed at what a nice machine the el-cheapo HF green bandsaw is, after a few tweaks and a real blade.To give an idea, less than a minute (probably under 30 seconds) to cut through a 2" square, 1/8" wall tube. Think about doing that with a hacksaw - no thanks  - John
Reply:Yeah, I´d vote for getting as many grinders as attachments that you plan to use...I use B&D  4.5"´s ... they have stood up pretty nicely. One has 2 years of good abuse...I have 3 right now, one with cutting, one with grinding, and a polishing...way better than changing disks...also you give machine some resting time if you use another one...and for 24.99 can´t beat it!My Babies: HF Drill pressHF Pipe Bender3   4.5" Black and Decker angle grindersLincoln Electric PROMIG 175that´s it!
Reply:Originally Posted by elvergonand for 24.99 can´t beat it!
Reply:None of my HF tools have actually ever failed me (other than the 3/8" air ratchet) without obvious user error.. My first angle grinder was a Bosch that I paid ~$50 for. It started falling apart after a month or so. The wheel-lock is all loose and wobbly now, and even some internal wiring has come loose, requiring disassembly to fix. If I hadn't stopped using it I bet it would have been essentially out of commission a few months later.  I will probably pick up a few HF grinders (or maybe one and just leave the grinding disc on... I hardly ever need anything else, now having the wire brushed-bench grinder and bandsaws available).