Amateur welder seeking welding advice

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Hello everyone! my name is Jose Lopez and I currently work in the Eagle Ford Shale as an electricians assistant. I am attempting to refine my stick welding to get a structural welding job and at some point attempt pipeline welding. So Ive decided to go old school and work on my basics. Im currently running a Hobart stick mate LX 235 ac/ 160 dc. I couldnt find 6010 so Im using 1/8 6011 on dc + @ around 95- 110 amps. This is in the flat position with a drag technique. Any advice on the welds? Its been a challenge but Ive been putting 4-6 hrs a week on arch length, angle, straightness, etc just trying to get a feel for it. I know i need work on straightness but anything else? honest opinions appreciated. Thanks, Jose
Reply:I feel like the furthest right one had decent uniformity but I was picking up on the rod alot more past the mid point. I think its at this point that I start to move my body to reach out and so I shake. any welding stance advice?
Reply:Have you ever tried a whipping technique with cellulose based electrodes?
Reply:A whipping action is moving forward a distance and back 1/2 the distance  this is done rather quickly
Reply:Your brace up will make or break your welding capability! Always get set up in a comfortable position with a good brace on something, dry run the area to be welded to make sure you have good position and easy movement the whole way. If that's not an option then start in the cramped or uncomfortable position and end the weld in a relaxed position, this helps cut down on shaking and helps you control your speed and arc length. Just doing this will improve your welds drastically and let you feel out the right speed and techniques without worrying about staying still the whole time!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:You might want to go a little hotter,too. I prefer to run 1/8" 6011 closer to 120-130 amps.
Reply:Thanks for the advice gxbxc and jef1!  I haven't tried whipping since I'm really focusing on pipe welding. If I'm not mistaken they use stringer beads for their root pass of 6010. Are whipping motions acceptable/ able to successfully throw down a root pass?
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauYou might want to go a little hotter,too. I prefer to run 1/8" 6011 closer to 120-130 amps.
Reply:Originally Posted by Dantheharleyman99Your brace up will make or break your welding capability! Always get set up in a comfortable position with a good brace on something, dry run the area to be welded to make sure you have good position and easy movement the whole way. If that's not an option then start in the cramped or uncomfortable position and end the weld in a relaxed position, this helps cut down on shaking and helps you control your speed and arc length. Just doing this will improve your welds drastically and let you feel out the right speed and techniques without worrying about staying still the whole time!
Reply:I've seen a lot worse from new welders. 6010/11 is almost always an "ugly" weld. Those that can make it look pretty are in a class by themselves and I envy them.The other guys have given you a lot of what I would have suggested. One thing to keep in mind is that one rod will usually give you 6-8" of weld bead, and you'll have a stub left at about the numbers on the rod. If you are getting more or less weld, you need to adjust your travel speed. Also remember that with stick, the closer you keep the rod to the plate, the "colder" the weld. The more arc length you have, the hotter the weld, given the same settings. After you get the basics down you will find this useful when you get to open roots. If the root has closed up on you, you can increase your "heat" by backing off the rod slightly and burning in better. If the gap opens up too much, shove the rod in more and it will cool things down so you don't end up with a giant hole to deal with.For now you can "play" a bit with this by trying to run welds at the same amp setting, but changing your arc length so you get an understanding of what happens. Eventually when you learn to read the puddle, you can use this "trick" to your advantage when needed..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:^^^ what he said^^ also, hand position is kind of a learn what you like through trial and error.. But you want to use your left hand (if your right handed) as the moveable base for your right hand (vise versa if left handed) this lets you rest your hand away from the heat while giving you adjustable support to keep your stinger hand nice and steady.What I meant about the start and end positions is that if there are no easy set up positions for you to get to the weld area correctly than you will at some point in the weld become uncomfortable or need to reach around something else and contort like a snake to make a weld.. It's easy to forget that the longer you are in a uncomfortable or aucward position the more exhausted you become which leads to less hand eye courdination. So if you are becoming more relaxed in your positioning as your about the halfway point on in the rod you shake less and become less fatigued which in turn makes for a nicer more consistent weld.I hope that made sense!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWI've seen a lot worse from new welders. 6010/11 is almost always an "ugly" weld. Those that can make it look pretty are in a class by themselves and I envy them.The other guys have given you a lot of what I would have suggested. One thing to keep in mind is that one rod will usually give you 6-8" of weld bead, and you'll have a stub left at about the numbers on the rod. If you are getting more or less weld, you need to adjust your travel speed. Also remember that with stick, the closer you keep the rod to the plate, the "colder" the weld. The more arc length you have, the hotter the weld, given the same settings. After you get the basics down you will find this useful when you get to open roots. If the root has closed up on you, you can increase your "heat" by backing off the rod slightly and burning in better. If the gap opens up too much, shove the rod in more and it will cool things down so you don't end up with a giant hole to deal with.For now you can "play" a bit with this by trying to run welds at the same amp setting, but changing your arc length so you get an understanding of what happens. Eventually when you learn to read the puddle, you can use this "trick" to your advantage when needed.
Reply:Originally Posted by Dantheharleyman99^^^ what he said^^ also, hand position is kind of a learn what you like through trial and error.. But you want to use your left hand (if your right handed) as the moveable base for your right hand (vise versa if left handed) this lets you rest your hand away from the heat while giving you adjustable support to keep your stinger hand nice and steady.What I meant about the start and end positions is that if there are no easy set up positions for you to get to the weld area correctly than you will at some point in the weld become uncomfortable or need to reach around something else and contort like a snake to make a weld.. It's easy to forget that the longer you are in a uncomfortable or aucward position the more exhausted you become which leads to less hand eye courdination. So if you are becoming more relaxed in your positioning as your about the halfway point on in the rod you shake less and become less fatigued which in turn makes for a nicer more consistent weld.I hope that made sense!
Reply:And agreed on the fatigue! I'm currently dealing with an ache that's been brought upon work related and simple improper posture etc. getting old sucks! Those small repetitive things catch up much quicker
Reply:Plate thickness doesn't really change it, nor does rod size ( at least in the 3/32"- 1/8" range most guys learn on) . What does change things is joint type. You usually lay down more material with say a fillet weld, so beads are a bit shorter. In some ways that's why I say 6-8 inches.  That usually takes joint type into consideration to a certain extent. Rod manipulation would also change this. In some way this is related to plate thickness as often guys go to weaves vs stringers when the plate gets thicker and they need to lay down more weld material in a groove weld or fillet. Then you might get a lot less than 6", but by the time you hit that point, usually you have already gotten the basics down and can read the puddle and control things based on what you see happening vs doing timing patterns like many new welders do..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:turn it up more and whip it and if you want it to look nice buy some lincoln 5P+
Reply:Good to know on the plate thickness/ rod size dsw. lots of appreciation to all the info. exactly what I was looking forward to finding on this forum. ill be posting up updates on my progress.
Reply:Originally Posted by cub102turn it up more and whip it and if you want it to look nice buy some lincoln 5P+
Reply:Buying rods in the smaller amounts cost more per pound than the larger boxes. You get more rods per dollar buying the 10# boxes, and more still buying the 50# boxes. You probably wont want to buy 50# at a time, but see what the price difference is between two 5# VS. 1 10#. Your gonna need'em anyway, so may as well buy in the larger quantities. You say you are on your third 5# box, if you had bought 10#, then you would only be halfway through the second box. Are you getting your rods at a big box Lowes/Home Depot type store or a LWS? If the first then 5# is usually all they come in, and they get a premium price for that. Go to a LWS for the 10#. If they are out of the 10# boxes and only have 5# boxes in the size you want, ask them to sell them to you for the 10# price. I did that this summer with my LWS. They did not have 1/8"6011 in 10#s only 5#. They had them in 3/32" & 5/16" but not 1/8", 10# boxes. I told them I wanted 10# and they didn't have them in that size box, would they sell me 2 5s for the same price as 1 10, and they did. So give that a try. The big box stores won't even think about doing that for you.Last edited by Bistineau; 10-01-2014 at 03:51 PM.
Reply:You wrote "Im currently on my 3rd 5lb box of rods and it adds up. "Welding is not a Poor Man's hobby.  Learn where to buy and consider looking for quantity discounts.I offer three choices: Good, Fast, & Cheap. You may pick two.Hobart AC/DC StikMate LXHarbor Freight AD HoodHarbor Freight Industrial Chop SawDeVilbis 20 Gallon, 5 HP Compressor
Reply:Originally Posted by nadogailYou wrote "Im currently on my 3rd 5lb box of rods and it adds up. "Welding is not a Poor Man's hobby.  Learn where to buy and consider looking for quantity discounts.
Reply:Try hitting estate sales or yard sales, you could get lucky! I heard through the grape vine last week about a lady selling her late husbands tools and supplies... I bought about 50 pounds of various rods still in sealed containers for $20!  I also bought some other things and ended up with about $1800 worth of tools, steel, and various supplies for $250.  SCORE!!Deals are out there all over the place they are just hard to find!Last edited by Dantheharleyman99; 10-01-2014 at 04:34 PM.Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Here you go mate!!Jody to the rescue!!!
Reply:Jody at weldingtipsandteicks.com has awesome videos and great shots of the weld. I frequently look at his vids!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWPlate thickness doesn't really change it, nor does rod size ( at least in the 3/32"- 1/8" range most guys learn on) . Minimum for practice would be about 1/8", that's 10 gauge or there abouts. As you found out, you don't try to weld it the same as 1/2" steel.
Reply:Originally Posted by Dantheharleyman99Jody at weldingtipsandteicks.com has awesome videos and great shots of the weld. I frequently look at his vids!
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauMinimum for practice would be about 1/8", that's 10 gauge or there abouts. As you found out, you don't try to weld it the same as 1/2" steel.
Reply:Great video . I noticed his rod angles close to 90. Mines been at about 45- 60. Like the way Jody does his whips and all the basic info he gives.
Reply:Originally Posted by retrolopez8Thanks Bistineau, next plate I get from the scrap yard I'll make sure it's a bit thicker. Just saw it was referenced to someone else sorry.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauGo back and read post #19 for some money saving tips on buying your rods.
Reply:Got the welder going! Must've been a bit too buzzed to bother checking the breaker. These are my first two of the night with 1/8th 7018. Wish 6011 gave me results like this. Still need more work with keeping it in a straight line, as the top one can show.
Reply:Those look quite nice. 6010/11 almost never look that way. I've seen a few rare people who can make 6010/11 look like a tight stack of dimes, but never quite this tight. It's the nature of those rods..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Whoever said that increasing arc length increases heat is very wrong. Amperage increases the closer the rod is to the work and increases penetration. This is according to aws/ csa.  Long arc length produces a wider bead with less penetration,  good for weaving a cap. Short arc length is good for roots and hot passes for better penetration.  Long arc= more voltage less amperage short arc= more amperage less voltage.
Reply:Originally Posted by iongarWhoever said that increasing arc length increases heat is very wrong. Amperage increases the closer the rod is to the work and increases penetration. This is according to aws/ csa.  Long arc length produces a wider bead with less penetration,  good for weaving a cap. Short arc length is good for roots and hot passes for better penetration.  Long arc= more voltage less amperage short arc= more amperage less voltage.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThose look quite nice. 6010/11 almost never look that way. I've seen a few rare people who can make 6010/11 look like a tight stack of dimes, but never quite this tight. It's the nature of those rods.