Murphy's law does it again

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I have been working on my custom exhaust manifold for my turbo turbine engine all weekend. Last night all I had left to do was tap the bolt holes for the turbo. Holes are 1" deep, closed on the bottom- had to be that way for design purposes. Murphy's Law states that if you succesfully tap three out of four holes the tap will break halfway into the fourth, slightly below the surface. Does anyone have a good removal trick? You only need to be 2% smarter than what you are working on.Lincoln pm140hacksawa big hammer
Reply:This works everytime but you need the right "stuff"..You will need a carbide reamer...end mill...whatever you can get ahold of...Thats about the diameter of the body of the tap...Position turbo in a vice and line up the broken tap with the centerline of a drill press on the highest speed it will go..Don't be shy and jam the carbide into the tap over and over..It will work its way thru the tap and if done  right you'll leave the threads intact...I've done this hundreds of times..It works either in a drill press..Bridgeport..I even use that method the get taps out of the end of journals in my lathe with the tail stock...You'll see it works!...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Gunna need to buy a drill press. Thanks zap. You only need to be 2% smarter than what you are working on.Lincoln pm140hacksawa big hammer
Reply:Originally Posted by MB2005Gunna need to buy a drill press. Thanks zap.
Reply:Try a tap extractor about like this:Attachment 11177from; http://www.newmantools.com/walton/extrtap.htmOr chip away at it with a punch or two, trying to back it up, or break it.The desperate have used another tap, drill rod and clamps.This should give you the 2% edge!Last edited by denrep; 02-22-2009 at 07:45 PM.
Reply:http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF...0&PMT4TP=*LTIPAnything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterThis works everytime but you need the right "stuff"..You will need a carbide reamer...end mill...whatever you can get ahold of...Thats about the diameter of the body of the tap...Position turbo in a vice and line up the broken tap with the centerline of a drill press on the highest speed it will go..Don't be shy and jam the carbide into the tap over and over..It will work its way thru the tap and if done  right you'll leave the threads intact...I've done this hundreds of times..It works either in a drill press..Bridgeport..I even use that method the get taps out of the end of journals in my lathe with the tail stock...You'll see it works!...zap!
Reply:Too slow. Some one beat me to it.Last edited by fordtrucks; 07-16-2007 at 12:35 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by olddadThanks for the tip Zap, guess I've always done it the hard slow way. Gonna have to get me a set of those reamers
Reply:Thanks again zap. I used a variation of your method, and got the tap out. I had an old carbide burr that i put in my drill, and went to work. I wound up reaming around the tap because i kept slipping off. It wont hurt this part though. I was then able to grab the tap with needlenose channel locks and back it out. You only need to be 2% smarter than what you are working on.Lincoln pm140hacksawa big hammer
Reply:Glad you got out. If you get a real tough one find a machine shop with an EDM machine. Wish I had one. Some shops even call them a tap burner.
Reply:Tresi,  I'm glad to hear that you got it out I'm never that lucky but I do work real close by a shop that has EDM.  That's the best way to get any hardened tap, bolt etc out of just about anything.  You might look around and see if there is a shop anywhere that does EDM work for the future.Michael
Reply:What did I get out? Was it supposed to come out? Should I try to put it back in before anybody sees it?
Reply:Murphy's Law states that if you succesfully tap three out of four holes the tap will break halfway into the fourth, slightly below the surface.
Reply:drill a hole in it down the centre, then insert a screw/bolt extractor which left hand thread so as it winds into the tap it it also turning left which make the tap unscrew.http://datingsidorsingel.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by cheeseclipdrill a hole in it down the centre, then insert a screw/bolt extractor which left hand thread so as it winds into the tap it it also turning left which make the tap unscrew.
Reply:Masonry drill bits usually do the trick as well, and are readily avalable.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:I'm a carpenter by trade. First thing I tried was masonry bit, being carbide tipped and all. Carbide just chipped till it was gone. You only need to be 2% smarter than what you are working on.Lincoln pm140hacksawa big hammer
Reply:drill a hole in it down the centre,
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyI needed to deepen six on a kubota differential case about a year ago. Sweated bullets every single turn.  I beat murphy on that one. Murphy prabably has a rule about that too.   I'm afraid to try it again till murphy is busy with someone else.
Reply:Hey Tresi,  my bad I meant that for MB2005.......I guess Murphy kicked my arse too.Michael
Reply:oh ok i didnt realise taps were so much harder then drill bits, i knew they were very hard but not that hard. anyway my idea works if you break the head off a bolt or something.http://datingsidorsingel.com/
Reply:When tapping into a deep hole like that, I've discovered that it pays to think about using a lesser percentage thread. If you use the exact tap drill size for maybe an 80% thread, you will often encounter tap breakage. Try opening the hole up a bit with some larger letter drills after making the basic hole with the correct tap drill. A few thousandths of an inch will give a sufficiently good thread but prevent breakage. This works very well with coarse threads but may not be necessary for fine threads. I've also had some luck on occasion by heating a broken tap with a cutting torch, right on the center of it. It takes some of the temper out and then a tip like Zap suggested with the carbide would be even easier to do.Miller Millermatic 252Miller Syncrowave 200Liincoln AC-DC 225Victor O-A Set
Reply:MB2205's dilemma is not the best situation to learn another  broken tap removal technique on, but...On some jobs a tap (or bolt) can be burned out without damage to adjacent metal by using oxygen only to vaporize the culprit.  During  an initial heat-up of a small spot, turn off the fuel and use oxygen only to burn up the tap/pin/bolt/bearing, whatever. Absence of preheat flame will prevent adjacent parts from reaching combustion temperature.Last edited by denrep; 07-19-2007 at 12:54 PM.
Reply:If it's slightly below the surface then I'd position a 5/8" nut (or whatever size is appropriate) over the hole and carefully plug weld the broken tap to the nut. The heat will help loosen what's left of the tap, and the nut can be easily turned with a wrench (quick and dirty method)If you think you have a real stubborn problem, then first lay down a wide flat washer of the correct hole diameter over the tap and weld what's left of the tap to the washer (this will take less heat and you can manipulate the MIG gun or stick much better). Once the tap is welded to the washer, then weld a nut to the washer -- this makes for a stronger weld on the nut and you can apply more torque.I've taken a few stubborn taps and bolts out with this method. Works 90% of the time.Last edited by goodfellow; 07-21-2007 at 12:53 PM.