2G Pipe?

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Was looking at a post somewhere around here about a member that's having a bit of trouble doing a 2G pipe weld..Now I have never had to do this at any time as a test but have run into this situation at times so I did a little research and came up with the notion that it has to be done with the pipe "up"..Not sideways like laying it on a bench..I was tempted to use the positioner but that's cheating I guess so I just did it on the bench the way it is..They mention a 3/32" gap and a bevel..I took my subjects to the small lathe and dressed up the ends and had a go at it..The pipe was 2 1/4" with a 3/16" wall..Pics below..One more post.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Amps..Anywhere between 80-150...Filler..040 70S-2So give it to me straight.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I don't know S about pipe, but you really must be bored today. I thought you got all the fun jobs?There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Looks like you got some suck back on the root.  The pic above the one with a dime on it..I would've ran stringers after the hot pass, but that's me..
Reply:The root didn't fuse into the wall of the pipe in a lot of places, try a bigger gap one where your filler will slide through the gap easily. Make the inside of the pipe where the root will tie in shiny like inside the bevel.  Other than that it looks good
Reply:From my research, it's either no land to 1/32-1/16 at the most except for big diameter,heavy wall pipe. The gap is really the welders preference unless stated otherwise. Usually no amp control. Some guys like to feed wire through the gap and the watch the puddle and the root form from the inside,they don't really watch the arc,using a large gap like 3/16 ... This way they know for sure that the root has enough buildup inside. I would try it again with no land or very little and push more filler in while letting the heat of the puddle not the arc melt the filler using an 1/8" gap,grind out your tacks as you go as well....Lincoln pro mig 180Lincoln Square Wave Tig 300/wp 20/home built water cooler Victor, Purox, Harris, O/A welding/cutting setupsVintage Craftsman drill pressVintage Craftsman/Atlas 12"x 36'' lathe7''x 12'' w/c band saw Everlast 140 st
Reply:Originally Posted by justinTThe root didn't fuse into the wall of the pipe in a lot of places, try a bigger gap one where your filler will slide through the gap easily. Make the inside of the pipe where the root will tie in shiny like inside the bevel.  Other than that it looks good
Reply:where to start? need longer coupon's, 6'' long min. clean rust and millscale from inside and outside,2g caps are stringers not puddle cap, need to slow down travel speed on root! lay wire in joint and walk over wire lightly pushing wire into molten pool( surface tension) good luck!
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugWhat he said. You didn't get enough reinforcement in the inside either. And I KNOW that you know that the steel needs to be clean before tig welding
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterThe outside is as clean as it gets..A lathe will do that for ya.The inside?I just played the game like everyone else.This was not a test..Just screwing around....zap!
Reply:2G, check.But ??? It's not "pipe".2" pipe is 2-3/8 "OD, not 2-1/4".  Wall thickness on Sch 40 2" pipe would be 0.154", and Sch 80 would be 0.218".  3/16" is 0.1875".Next, here's the critical evaluation, done to pipe welding codes/standards/guides.Fail.Failure to clean 'pipe' minimum 1" back from the joint, inside and out.Failure to use the minimum required number of tack (four minimum per AWS D10.11, three or four minimum per AWS D10.12 if using pipe clamps to hold pipe in position).Failure to get adequate root penetration.  I think that's the 'biggest' problem here.Filler used was too small, per Code/guide (D10.12 says 3/32 filler for pipe, AWS B2.1-1 standard WPS for GTAW 3/16 - 7/8 thick says 1/16 or 3/32 or 1/8 filler).Cap pass looks like it might be a little under-filled (camera angle or lens distortion?).  Hey, it ain't easy to do pipe.  Open root, small diameter, relatively thick-walled pipe at that.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugThe lathe will clean the bevel, but you need it clean about 1/4" past that. I usually clean 1/2" past the bevel. The inside needs to be cleaned also, leaving millscale and rust inside it makes it hard to get proper fusion and reinforcement.I know you can weld, open root is just allot different to weld than what you usually do.
Reply:How about some heavy wall 1 7/8" tube... 6g  Attached ImagesLincoln pro mig 180Lincoln Square Wave Tig 300/wp 20/home built water cooler Victor, Purox, Harris, O/A welding/cutting setupsVintage Craftsman drill pressVintage Craftsman/Atlas 12"x 36'' lathe7''x 12'' w/c band saw Everlast 140 st
Reply:gap?we don need no stinkin gap...
Reply:what others said  and  use  longer coupons ...3'' eachand when you get bored try it without a foot pedal and in 5G  --------------------------------------------------------------www.becmotors.nlyup, I quit welding.. joined welder anonymous
Reply:Just a little tip. Feed more wire. you want to be flush or above on the inside with all the walls broke down. dont be afraid to feed the wire. On a 2g dont try to cap it with one pass unless it is very thin pipe. catch the bottom bevel with the first cap pass and stack the till you grab the top bevel with no under cut. good luck
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRise2G, check.But ??? It's not "pipe".2" pipe is 2-3/8 "OD, not 2-1/4".  Wall thickness on Sch 40 2" pipe would be 0.154", and Sch 80 would be 0.218".  3/16" is 0.1875".Next, here's the critical evaluation, done to pipe welding codes/standards/guides.Fail.Failure to clean 'pipe' minimum 1" back from the joint, inside and out.Failure to use the minimum required number of tack (four minimum per AWS D10.11, three or four minimum per AWS D10.12 if using pipe clamps to hold pipe in position).Failure to get adequate root penetration.  I think that's the 'biggest' problem here.Filler used was too small, per Code/guide (D10.12 says 3/32 filler for pipe, AWS B2.1-1 standard WPS for GTAW 3/16 - 7/8 thick says 1/16 or 3/32 or 1/8 filler).Cap pass looks like it might be a little under-filled (camera angle or lens distortion?).  Hey, it ain't easy to do pipe.  Open root, small diameter, relatively thick-walled pipe at that.
Reply:Start with larger pipe. Its easier...or so I hear from all the advanced tig students at school.
Reply:I still bet that Bi*ch don't leak. LOL.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:I think the others have covered it fairly well, but the main problems here are the suck-back on your root and the use of a weave for a horizontal weld.  .040" filler is way too small for that weld.  Try 3/32", push it into the puddle pretty aggressively on the root pass and again on the 2nd (hot pass) to prevent the suck-back.  A horizontal weave is not acceptable in any code I've seen, so try switching to stringers all the way out.  The other part mentioned is to feather your tacks out with a grinder as you work your way around on the root and ensure that they are fully fused into the root pass.  When you're done it will look almost like you ran a pass from the inside.  ASME doesn't specify a minimum number of tacks.
Reply:Enough comedy. Now for an important question........Correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought it was a 1966 dime???"Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manEnough comedy. Now for an important question........Correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought it was a 1966 dime???
Reply:do alot of heavy wall tig/stick work in the plant. I personally like 1/16" landing on any piping with a wall 1/2" or smaller, 3/4" and up wall thickness i find a knife edge to work best as shes such a big heat sink even with the blankets on her keeping interpass temps. Although i must say ive never had the luxury of using a pedal during any of my pipe work in the plant or in the shop for that matter. Over the years you just learn to use your filler, base material, and travel speed to control the head input. Rather than dipping quickly which it kinda looks like you were doing, what i teach my apprentices when there first starting out is to " start on the tack and heat it up, weave up to the top bevel and just catch the landing point the tungsten at the filler and add 1/2" or so of rod, weave back down to bottom bevel and quickly back up and repeat. When you get more control over this method you can start concentrating more on staying in the middle of the root opening to gain speed, but you always are able to climb a little higher on that bevel to lose some heat if you need
Reply:I appreciate all the input/suggestions but remember I was just screwing around when I did this..Next time.......(Whenever that will be)......I'll make ya proud of me....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I'm more concerned with the fact that in the last picture you are using a tape measure that reads fractions. Didn't you give the young mister Stukus a hard time for not reading a caliper correctly? kidtigger24  They think I’m crazy, but I know better. It is not I who am crazy. It is I who am MAD!Originally Posted by kidtigger24I'm more concerned with the fact that in the last picture you are using a tape measure that reads fractions. kidtigger24
Reply:Am I the only one that noticed that Zap's horizontal weave was super nice?However, the attempt clearly shows how hard this is for a new welder to learn. Even an experienced welder didn't nail it the first time out of the gate.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:undercut and underfill on the cover need to shove that root in there careful with heat on hot pass to not suck back the rootGrind all tacks as you get to them as you move around the rootMiller Xmt 350Lincoln Ln-25Ahp 200xSmith Gas Mixer AR/HTig is my Kung FuThrowing down dimes and weaving aboutInstagram http://instagram.com/[email protected]
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterThat's brandy new..I have to learn to read it myself ......zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by kidtigger24I'm more concerned with the fact that in the last picture you are using a tape measure that reads fractions.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWI hate cheap tapes like that. Worse are ones that read that way on one side and metric on the other. I used to work with a guy who'd buy cheap tapes like that from HF. I got so fed up with them I trashed the bunch and bought him all new Stanleys just so I wouldn't keep picking up the damn things and try to use them.
Reply:Originally Posted by Pressure_Welderdo alot of heavy wall tig/stick work in the plant. I personally like 1/16" landing on any piping with a wall 1/2" or smaller, 3/4" and up wall thickness i find a knife edge to work best as shes such a big heat sink even with the blankets on her keeping interpass temps. Although i must say ive never had the luxury of using a pedal during any of my pipe work in the plant or in the shop for that matter. Over the years you just learn to use your filler, base material, and travel speed to control the head input. Rather than dipping quickly which it kinda looks like you were doing, what i teach my apprentices when there first starting out is to " start on the tack and heat it up, weave up to the top bevel and just catch the landing point the tungsten at the filler and add 1/2" or so of rod, weave back down to bottom bevel and quickly back up and repeat. When you get more control over this method you can start concentrating more on staying in the middle of the root opening to gain speed, but you always are able to climb a little higher on that bevel to lose some heat if you need