Bandsaw blades

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This weekend I picked up an ancient bandsaw. I already had the harbor frieght horizontal/verticle, but hated to have to convert it back and forth. The one I just got is a verticle. It uses an 87 inch blade. It looks like it was meant for wood, but I will use it for metal. I have been thinking of just getting a coil of bandsaw blade material, and making the bands as I need them. Has anyone ever done this? Do the blades need to be brazed or welded. I have seen machines that are made for this purpose, but don't want to spend that kind of cash.
Reply:Bandsaw blades need to be welded and then annealed.Here's a link I found with instructions on building a jig and welding the blades.Bandsaw Blade weldingHope this helps...- Paulhttp://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:That is a great link! I don't have a tig setup yet, would mig work okay? I had someone tell me to use copper under the blade when I weld it to pull some of the heat away. Any thoughts on that?
Reply:i overlap the blade by 1/16 and tig it (no filler) with a piece of flat aluminum underneeth..then anneal as needed.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:You overlap a bandsaw blade zap?Doesn't that cause problems when cutting because of the difference in thickness in that one spot?I would think that it would cause a tooth to chip off or the band to break.http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:There is a thread in this forum that describes brazing bandsaw blades.  The description is consistent with those found in other sources.  I thought about fabbing my own blades.  Though, I really cannot see any benefit.  I have mine made by a industrial supply house.  If the break on the weld, then they replace them with no problems.  The cost about $16.00.  I get 400-500 cuts out of one blade on a small horizontal saw. With brazing you grind each end to roughly 1/2 size (thickness), then overlap.Last edited by tapwelder; 09-18-2006 at 11:05 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderThere is a thread in this forum that describes brazing bandsaw blades.  The description is consistent with those found in other sources.  I thought about fabbing my own blades.  Though, I really cannot see any benefit.  I have mine made by a industrial supply house.  If the break on the weld, then they replace them with no problems.  The cost about $16.00.  I get 400-500 cuts out of one blade on a small horizontal saw. With brazing you grind each end to roughly 1/2 size (thickness), then overlap.
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabYou overlap a bandsaw blade zap?Doesn't that cause problems when cutting because of the difference in thickness in that one spot?I would think that it would cause a tooth to chip off or the band to break.
Reply:You can braze the blade material together if you do not have a TIG.  You have to cut to length then match ends together back to back with a twist to carefully grind the ends.  If you grind out of square they will still match because of the twist.  Grind each end individually with a scarf taper.  I use a piece of flat bar in a vise with the ends clamped down using vise grips.  A bit of flux on the scarf joint then with a small torch tip just heat until the flux melts then add an eighth of an inch of silver solder.  For relatively slow moving bandsaw blade in metal you can be a bit off.  For higher speeds on a wood cutting blade you have to be very fussy.  No need to anneal when using the torch and backing bar behind.
Reply:If it is a wood cutting bandsaw you will need to slow it down for metal.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsteryeah.. because when you use the welder in the saw..it just "mashes" the 2 ends together while "fusing" the blades together...you have to grind it smooth after just like you did it in the saw...then anneal.....zap!
Reply:Thanks for the heads up on aluminum Zap, I was kicking myself for recycling all the copper I had, But I still have some Al. The saw is ancient and the motor is 1/4 hp. It has trouble turning the blade while tentioned(sp?), so I am planning on swapping in another anyway. I checked last night and have some other sized pulleys I can tinker with that fit the driveshaft perfect.  I think I have a 3 speed 3/4 hp motor at the house.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterthen anneal as needed
Reply:I anneal cartridge brass when it work hardens from too many times being resized.  I use a propane torch, heat the neck and shoulder to a dull red then quick water quench.  Depending on caliber, they're good for another 10 reloadings.I bought a 100' coil of bandsaw blade from WW Grainger.  I taper grind about 1/2" at either end, then clamp in a homemade aluminum fixture, then silver solder together and use a flap disk to smooth the joint so it goes through the guide rollers OK.  No annealing needed.And no problems in over 20 years.WeldingWeb forum--now more sophomoric banter than anything else!
Reply:Your propane torch will work just fine..like 69 chebby said..Dull red and then quench..But if you are doing a bandsaw blade..Heat dull red..Just let air cool..Repeat and then your ready to go.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:We used to have a blade welder mounted on our large bandsaw at a machine shop I worked in 20 years ago. We used to have a rolls of blade material for most popular width/sTPI's and were expected to make our own as there were needed.  It would work for a while, then usually break again at the joint.  Operator error, malfuntioning welder, or low quality blades?  Not sure which. We sent it out for repairs and it basically did the same thing no matter who made them.I just buy mine at the Industrial Blade Shop, made to order, for an average of $16-20 each, depending on length and style. I've only broken one 1/16" blade when I was trying to do some tight scroll work with it.Hobart 140 Handler w/ gasHyperTherm Powermax 380 Plasmaoxy/acetylene