Rookie Welder - Advice on these beads

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Hi Everyone,Brand new to welding and brand new to this forum.  After taking a basic TIG class at the local metal shop, I've put in about 12 hours of practice in so far (usually in 2-3 hour sessions).  But unfortunately, I do all my welding alone and don't have anyone to evaluate my beads or give me real-time advice.  But I'm hoping I can check in with you at the forum now and then to make up for that.So I've just been doing stringer beads so far, really just trying to work on all the basics and especially consistency.  One thing I've noticed is that sometimes I lay a bead that is very, very flat.  Like if you run your finger over it, it feels flat (I'm sure there's a better technical term for this).  These are the ones shown in the first picture.Then other beads have more "height" to them.  So again, if you run your finger over them you feel more material.  These are the ones in the second picture.  I guess I'm just looking for general feedback, but also some specific advice on what the right "height" of the bead should be as I feel this is one of the bigger inconsistencies between my beads.Sorry for the picture quality.  Also still learning how to photograph a weld!Thanks!
Reply:what material are you welding on in those pics?Learning the ropes....
Reply:Oops, sorry - forgot to give all that info.This is 16ga steel. 60amps, 1/16 filler.  Gas lens, and I was switching between a few different cups (#6, #7, #8).
Reply:Looks fine, time to try some joints. Lap joints are a good starting point. Do you have amp control? You could stand a bit of taper at the end to avoid that crater. Cup size might be the least important variable. Try +/- 10 amps.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:Look at the backside. Overpenetration will tell you you are running too slow, overheating, and will give you the flatter greyish dull welds. Less heat, more filler to chill the puddle and move faster and you will maintain that shiny look.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonLook at the backside. Overpenetration will tell you you are running too slow, overheating, and will give you the flatter greyish dull welds. Less heat, more filler to chill the puddle and move faster and you will maintain that shiny look.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrazinLooks fine, time to try some joints. Lap joints are a good starting point. Do you have amp control? You could stand a bit of taper at the end to avoid that crater. Cup size might be the least important variable. Try +/- 10 amps.
Reply:Also if your laying practice beads next to one another and don't let them cool then they will be flatter since the metal is already heat soaked.   Let the metal cool between practice beads.
Reply:Looking like your going in the right direction. Im no expert but how high you want the bead is strictly up to you on flat practice plates. So to answer your question, in a real weld joint I usually never make the weld much thicker than the base material as it serves no purpose when the base material will be the weakest point.
Reply:Thanks for the helpful feedback, everyone.  Looking forward to my next practice session now...