Trying to put my 69 red face in my truck

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I'm trying to put my 69red face my 2012 dodge .dully if some one has any pic or can help me I'm trying to go  cab length is there a trick to getting it in side ways thanksRod Burner
Reply:Not uncommon to have to shorten the exciter brushes housing when mounting across a PU bed to gain the required clearance.  Not sure on your '12 Dodge though.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Ok I've  cut mine down already this is frustratingRod Burner
Reply:How far off is it?I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:My truck is 65 from bed rail to bed rail . But from the rail to the lip on the bottom floor it's 671/2 my machine is 671/4 from nose to the back of the machineRod Burner
Reply:Sorry Roy long day, tired. Is the problem getting it in on a angle then like this \ and placing it down? I know a 1/4" isn't much leeway.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:I mean 67 1/2 on the machine longRod Burner
Reply:Yikes so you have no room then? I would get a remote amperage control then so you don't have to keep climbing in the truck and put it where it fits. I'm still a little confused tho.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:a picture is worth a thousand wordsSome blue machinesSome red machineslots of heavy steel
Reply:Try radiator end in first at diagonal then shove nose over wheel we'll into the spot, my 300d was a squeeze in my 01, I had to take the exciter cap off to get a 200 in
Reply:Could be one reason why Lincoln shortened the later units by 3/4" on the exciter and radiator ends.  1-1/2" total can make the difference between go and no go in these cases.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Chopping the nose cone is the first step. The second is cutting the inner bed for clearance. That takes some close measuring and it'll still be tight but it's done a lot. The bed will flex more in rough terrain and won't live as long as an unmolested bed.Better choice is a welding bed, even a simple, cheap flat bed.That's why you see machines in late model truck pickup beds lenthwise, it's "the Bakersfield way" : )It's painfull to work out of a pickup bed, but lot's of people have done it, newer trucks make it more difficult tho.JTMcC