chop saw v. bandsaw v. plamsa

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new guy here and i've got to say i'm really glad i found this place. seems to be lotsa good, nice info. with your collective knowledge i'd like to pick a few of y'all brains and see what you have to say.i've saved my pennies, nickels and dimes and am about to drop some $$$ for some tools. i'm going to get a miller 212, nice auto-darkening hood and some sort of cutting tool. i know throwing the plasma cutter in there is a little out of the scope of saws but i want opinions, cuz it could be an option. not sure yet.i'm playing in my garage, making jeep stuff; bumpers, roll cage, tire carrier, etc. i've got some ideas for furniture i'd like to make, and some art. i know the limitation of chop saw re: squareness of cut can vary. so i'm looking at a saw such as this one: http://www.vansantent.com/Saws/evolution_chop_saw.htmbut is this as good as a band saw? or is it better? if i went with a band saw tho i'd almost have to go with a vertical one rather than horizontal because of the space limitation. so with that a vert v. horiz one will be more time comsuming i'm guessing because i've got to stand there with it. then throw in a plasma option. i'm thinking that plamsa is nice, but if you're trying to cut tubing is it really as functional as opposed to if you're cutting flat plate with it? i know there can be a big difference in price between a chop saw and plasma cutter, but if i have to wait a month or 2 to get the plasma, if it's better in the long run i'll do it. i'm thinking for a good plamsa cutter i'm looking about $1300 for a miller. if i go with a saw that price seems to be considerably lower. i know one tool can't do it all, but i've never had any of the above mentioned products so i'm asking for y'all's opinions of the pro's and con's of what you have. thanks for your time. cheers, jason
Reply:IMHO-You need one of each, and then could use a few more to complete the arsenal.PlasmaChop (abrasive & chip)Bandsaws (vert and horz)SawsallCircular sawJig SawDie grinder (thin carbide cut-off disk)Angle grinder (same thing, HD)I have all but the H-BSaw (not enough room)The higher quality of the cut, the less grinding you have to do.Hobart 140 Handler w/ gasHyperTherm Powermax 380 Plasmaoxy/acetylene
Reply:I absolutely love my harbor freight bandsaw, piece of crap that it may be. http://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=7671For under 200 bucks it is a very useful tool. - John
Reply:A chop saw is good for cutting lots of small cuts.I have the band saw and if you are cutting nothing more than bar stock, its great.  Set it and forget it.Now a Plasma cuts circles, odd shapes, angles........ Just be sure you get one that has the capacity you want to cut.Torches might be the best option, you can cut weld and baize with a decent set.You are going to need a 4 1/2" grinder.  A cut off wheel on one of those is handy too.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:get a 4.5-6" grinder and a horiz bandsaw that can convert to vertical.  You'll be all set.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Been where you are and I now have all three. Hears my 2 cents worth.I hate chopsaws for the most part but they do have their uses. I would go for a decent band saw. The one I have is by far the best for the money as I see it. It does take up a little space but not that much. It can be used vertical and horizontal which is a great option and covers a lot of bases. As to plasma their awesome and A great tool. You could use a plasma for most all your cutting but it will take some help. I only had my plasma on one job where I needed to cut pipe. I spent a little time and make up a stand with two caster on it. The pipe would sit on the casters so I could roll the pipe. I then made an adjustable holder for the plasma torch. Now I just set the height, pulled the trigger with one hand and rolled the pipe with the other. Worked really well and saved a lot of time. I mention this because if you just want to cut some tube, plus other material a plasma can be used. Its hard to say what will be the best first tool to get but a bandsaw or plasma can do most all your jobs. You will need to decide. If you do decide to go with a plasma, I would get either a Hypotherm or Thermodynamics as they are the best ones out there. I have the TD cutmaster 38 and boy do i love it.Here's the link to the bandsaw I have. My came from Princess auto which is the Canadian version of Harbor freight. I have had my for a couple of years now and never any trouble. The chopsaw has been collecting dust ever since. http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=Lets us know what you decide and good luck.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:Your first saw should be the most versatile of all: The Sawzall. Hands down, nothing can do as much around tube that is in place, nothing gets after stuff already installed on a car or truck better. Then, next animal for a small shop guy- the plasma cutter. It will do almost everything a sawzall will do, but you will spend much less on consumables. Bandsaws and chopsaws are nice, but they don't cut next to a car frame very well. They are basically useless doing stuff like exhausts, shock mounts, etc.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Before deciding, look into the hypertherm T30 plasma. Inverter based (110 or 220 v). This plasma cutter was reviewed by weldingweb members earlier this year.  I saved the info and when it came time I went and bought one. I can't tell you what a nice machine this is. I cut tubing with it, I cut plate with it, and I cut TONS of aluminum with it.  The consumable cost is better than average and the performance and warranty are excellent.  Brian MoyerMoyer Welding & Fabrication       LaSalle MI
Reply:wow thanks for all the ideas, opinions and suggestions. what i've deduced is i need one of all of 'em. so that's it...wish is was that easy. sounds like the bandsaw may be the general way to go for me. i won't be doing any frame work, yet, on my jeep, so cutting directly off it isn't an issue. yet. i'll look at the prices on the hypertherm units, got a plane to catch this morning, but if it's less than the miller perhaps i'll be able to do a bandsaw/plasma combo purchase. has anyone used anything from northerntool? i've got a few of their air tools and they've done just fine. a couple buddies of mine are aircraft mechanic and have a few of their air tools and said they have lasted just fine for 'em. if/when they die, they'll go spend $15-20 bucks and replace 'em. gotta run, but thanks for the info so far.cheers, ya'll. jason
Reply:I agree with sn0border.  With limited money, you need to set priorities, and buy things in the order of usefulness.  I would buy the following:1. angle grinder(s) with flap discs (such as http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com...ain/Categories (great company, and I would recommend you buy some in bulk because you will use them all, much cheaper then buying them a few at a time at your LWS)2. horizontal bandsaw (a 4x6 bandsaw is NOT very big and does not take up much more space then a vertical bandsaw)3 (much later) plasma cutter.Get some experience welding with the above, then buy a plasma welder. You said you wanted to make a rollbar and tire carrier.  The bandsaw (or chopsaw) is important so you can get reasonably accurate angled cuts to keep the resulting welds good looking.  Doing the same sort of thing with a plasma cutter will require you to build some sort of jig so you can cut clean straight cuts with the plasma cutter. The plasma cutter is great for breaking down large sheets and freehand cutting, but it is not a good replacement for a bandsaw.Tim
Reply:I forgot to mention one thing here. One of the cheapest and a great tool to have for doing tube work is a tube notcher. Harbor freight has a cheap one that works very well when used right. I have the one I linked below and find it works very well and helps a lot for east fit up. http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:Originally Posted by jamlitI forgot to mention one thing here. One of the cheapest and a great tool to have for doing tube work is a tube notcher. Harbor freight has a cheap one that works very well when used right. I have the one I linked below and find it works very well and helps a lot for east fit up. http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=
Reply:If you want the best of the best, look into baileigh.Watch some of the vids they have on there site, like this one http://www.bii1.com/bandsaw.htmWatching that makes me drool like a little kid watching a bunch of toy commercials.i think you should get a h/v band saw first. then grinder and other need things.Get the needed and then get the wanted later.
Reply:Originally Posted by disepyonIm interested in a machine like this, My question is , would it be able to do tubing like roll cages? like 1.5 to 2.0 OD x .095 wall thicknessI hate using a grinder to grind out a notch at the end.
Reply:Originally Posted by disepyonIm interested in a machine like this, My question is , would it be able to do tubing like roll cages? like 1.5 to 2.0 OD x .095 wall thicknessI hate using a grinder to grind out a notch at the end.
Reply:Extreme 4x4 show on Spike TV looked at this issue awhile back.  Ian decided that the cutting torch comes first, then the quality vertical bandsaw, then the plasma.  His rational was:  cutting torch is cheaper and can do heating for bending and is portable (junkyard anyone?)  (they use mig and tig for welding), plasma takes a good compressor ($) and lots of grinding, while the bandsaw is wonderful for making exact detail cuts on brackets, no grinding to speak of.   That show makes me dream..... maybe it's jessi??  lol
Reply:Originally Posted by Bobcatter plasma takes a good compressor ($) and lots of grinding,
Reply:When I started out I could only afford cheap tools. I had a plumbers torch set given to me by my dad and bought the bottles and cutting torch. I also bought a cheap recripricating saw (saber saw). Given the cost of oxygen and accetelyne, I used the crap out of the saber saw. To date I've probably cut more steel with a saber saw and sawzall then anything else. No gas to use up, just a few pennies worth of electricity and blades. Also cheap.  The next thing I got was a 4" angle grinder.  Eventually I bought an abrasive wheel cut off saw. And the wife bought me a Millermatic 175 for Christmas. With these I built an entire drag racing car. I bought a used horizontal band saw (Power hack saw) but the wasted space and the versetility of the chop saw (abrasive wheel cut off saw) I got rid of the band saw. I'd love to have a plazma cutter but way too expensive for how often I'd use it. I don't cut much plate. Most stuff on a car just doesn't require a plazarc. I'm planning on building a front engine dragster in the near future and a tubing notcher will be in order. In order, I'd get these,1. angle grinder2. sawzall3. chop saw, (abrasive wheel)4. cutting torches5. mig welder6. plasma cutter7. tig welder8. tubing notcherNotice too that they are in order of expense. Except for the notcher.Good luck,Wayne
Reply:Originally Posted by jaded13640 I bought a used horizontal band saw (Power hack saw) but the wasted space and the versetility of the chop saw (abrasive wheel cut off saw) I got rid of the band saw.Wayne
Reply:I wish I had room for a bandsaw, but I get by with my plasma for those kind of cuts. I still think a Sawzall is the most versatile cutting tool you could own. That and a good grinder, you can do darn near anything for $200 for the pair of them.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Yea, the issue with the band saw was more space than anything else but I use the wheel on the chop saw as a grinder quite a bit. I'll grind a radius with it a lot easier than any other method I can think of. It's got way more power than my bench grinder. And it's ideal for deburring after a cut. To me, the chop saw is far more versitile. But that's just my preferance.Wayne
Reply:Since everyone else has chimed in I will add my own two cents.  My perspective is a bit different as metal fab is not my primary focus.   Well at least not yet as like you I'm slowly accumulating tools.    I'm going to make a list with items and a justification based on a long time experience in automation maintenance and allied hobby interests.    The idea being to build up your tool inventory with basics first.1.    A Sawsall.A basic do everything OK tool.   Good to start with and can do many things for you until more specific tools are acquired.2.    Electric Drill(s)I'm assuming you have such but a large 1/2" drill and a smaller battery power drill can go a long ways to making life easier.   I don't often see such tools in the lists offered up but I suspect that is because the tools is so common nobody mentions it.3    4-1/2" Grinder.Don't look at it as just a grinder but rather a multipurpose device.4.    Mig Welder.I say Mig but that is biased somewhat by my limited ability to install a bigger welder.    For many people a good stick/Tig machine would be  a better investment first.    The point is a welder has to be high on the list if you are going to gt into metal fabrication in any serious way, thus #4 on the list.5.   Band Saw(s)Again the issue is what and how many.   A small horizontal is excellent for cutting stock to length, in essence a cut off device.    A vertical can provide you with much more versatility even if it is limited as a cut off device.    Go vertical with a variable (or gear box) speed drive that allows for metal cutting speeds and also higher speeds for other materials gives you a lot of flexibility.   You need a vertical that can run reasonably slow for metal but any ability to increase that speed just makes the unit useful for other materials.6.    Drill Press / Mill Drill Machine.I've always considered a drill press to be a basic shop tool that is reasonably inexpensive.    Today with the cheap Chinese imports I'd suggest looking at the possibility of making a purchase of a Mill Drill.   Again this is an issue of a machine that doesn't do either job well, but the fact that the two are combined allows you to save a bit of space and at the same time have the ability to both Mill and Drill.7.  Bench Grinder.Nothing special here.    In fact I'd suggest buying at an auction or estate sale.   These of course come in different sizes.   What you want to consider here though is the purchase of multiple units for grinding, wire brushing and buffing.   Note to common electrical motors can be put into service here too.   This item should not impact you budget much at all.8.   A Lathe.Some machinists will tell you that the lathe is the first item a shop should get.    That is good from a machinist point of view but I suspect most fabricators will tell you a different story.    A fabricator can frequently make use of a drill press and even a mill far more often than a lathe both because of the size of the components he will likely work on and the required operations.   A lathe however is good for turning parts and if you get to the point where you need such it is good to have.9.    A Drill Doctor.This device gets all sorts of flak but the one at work has saved my butt on numerous occasions.   I'm not sure if the newer models are any better, but I see value in the units.********************Now note a couple of things here.   I did not list any support equipment such as vises, personal protective gear, expendable tooling, fixtures and such.    Most of the equipment above is useless without.   Further some of that equipment requires significant investment in support tooling.   In this regards I suspect that you will be far better off buying tooling on as needed basis.    The possible exception begin a set of drill bits.   In other words take a pay as you go attitude.The reason I say this is that even something as simple as a reasonable collection of Sawsall blades can set you back a bit in the pocket book.   That is money tied up in inventory that can buy you machinery.  It would be easy to spend the money on a set of Sawsall blades and Hole Saws that would cover the cost of some of the machines listed above.   Abrasive cut off blades are really ugly in this regards.     The other thing is to concentrate on buying quality when you do buy.    Contrary to popular myth their is a difference.Dave
Reply:Since everyone else has chimed in I will add my own two cents.  My perspective is a bit different as metal fab is not my primary focus.   Well at least not yet as like you I'm slowly accumulating tools.    I'm going to make a list with items and a justification based on a long time experience in automation maintenance and allied hobby interests.    The idea being to build up your tool inventory with basics first.1.    A Sawsall.A basic do everything OK tool.   Good to start with and can do many things for you until more specific tools are acquired.2.    Electric Drill(s)I'm assuming you have such but a large 1/2" drill and a smaller battery power drill can go a long ways to making life easier.   I don't often see such tools in the lists offered up but I suspect that is because the tools is so common nobody mentions it.3    4-1/2" Grinder.Don't look at it as just a grinder but rather a multipurpose device.4.    Mig Welder.I say Mig but that is biased somewhat by my limited ability to install a bigger welder.    For many people a good stick/Tig machine would be  a better investment first.    The point is a welder has to be high on the list if you are going to gt into metal fabrication in any serious way, thus #4 on the list.5.   Band Saw(s)Again the issue is what and how many.   A small horizontal is excellent for cutting stock to length, in essence a cut off device.    A vertical can provide you with much more versatility even if it is limited as a cut off device.    Go vertical with a variable (or gear box) speed drive that allows for metal cutting speeds and also higher speeds for other materials gives you a lot of flexibility.   You need a vertical that can run reasonably slow for metal but any ability to increase that speed just makes the unit useful for other materials.6.    Drill Press / Mill Drill Machine.I've always considered a drill press to be a basic shop tool that is reasonably inexpensive.    Today with the cheap Chinese imports I'd suggest looking at the possibility of making a purchase of a Mill Drill.   Again this is an issue of a machine that doesn't do either job well, but the fact that the two are combined allows you to save a bit of space and at the same time have the ability to both Mill and Drill.7.  Bench Grinder.Nothing special here.    In fact I'd suggest buying at an auction or estate sale.   These of course come in different sizes.   What you want to consider here though is the purchase of multiple units for grinding, wire brushing and buffing.   Note to common electrical motors can be put into service here too.   This item should not impact you budget much at all.8.   A Lathe.Some machinists will tell you that the lathe is the first item a shop should get.    That is good from a machinist point of view but I suspect most fabricators will tell you a different story.    A fabricator can frequently make use of a drill press and even a mill far more often than a lathe both because of the size of the components he will likely work on and the required operations.   A lathe however is good for turning parts and if you get to the point where you need such it is good to have.9.    A Drill Doctor.This device gets all sorts of flak but the one at work has saved my butt on numerous occasions.   I'm not sure if the newer models are any better, but I see value in the units.********************Now note a couple of things here.   I did not list any support equipment such as vises, personal protective gear, expendable tooling, fixtures and such.    Most of the equipment above is useless without.   Further some of that equipment requires significant investment in support tooling.   In this regards I suspect that you will be far better off buying tooling on as needed basis.    The possible exception begin a set of drill bits.   In other words take a pay as you go attitude.The reason I say this is that even something as simple as a reasonable collection of Sawsall blades can set you back a bit in the pocket book.   That is money tied up in inventory that can buy you machinery.  It would be easy to spend the money on a set of Sawsall blades and Hole Saws that would cover the cost of some of the machines listed above.   Abrasive cut off blades are really ugly in this regards.     The other thing is to concentrate on buying quality when you do buy.    Contrary to popular myth their is a difference.Dave
Reply:It doesn't really matter which one you get first. If you get into metalworking you'll have them ALL soon enough!  It's an addiction, sometimes I think I like collecting tools more than using them. That must be the case since I have tons that I never use, and wouln't part with them for anything. You can't go wrong buying a chopsaw, bandsaw, or plasma. The truth is that you need all three, and probably won't be happy until you have them.Miller EconotigCutmaster 38Yes ma'am, that IS a screwdriver in my pocket!
Reply:thanks guys, and gals if you're there, for the good info here. i've narrowed down my choices from what i've been reading here. first though thought i'd run through a few of the items i already have. as joe stated, yes i know this is an addiction. mate this with my jeep addiction and i'm one phucked up unit.(any parrotheads???) and the only cure is more cowbell. and more tools. i've got a nice/good 60gal craftsman compressor, bench grinder(nothing great but it works), 4 1/2" grinder, drills, drill press, cutting torches with bottles(got lucky on this one), and plenty of safety equipment. i need my health for my job so i am uber safe when it comes to working on things. in my first post i've mentioned what i'm planning on getting. and with all the info y'all have given me i've narrowed things down a bit. i think a plasma is on the back burner. i've used them a little and i believe they have their place but i don't think i need one...yet. i'm leaning real heavy to the bandsaw. i've never used one tho, so i've got a question. say i wanted to cut some pipe on a 45degree angle, will the blade have a tendency to wander initially? or is the tension of the blade what keeps it from wandering? if i were to cut say a chop saw the rigidness of the wheel will only allow it to wander a certain amount. i know the bandsaw blade can only wander so far, but will it be more or less than an abrasion wheel?and finally what quality are jet saw? i know you get what you pay for, but it seems horiz/vert saws go from a couple hundred dollars then jump to $1K-ish range, with not much in between. at least not what i've seen. this is the one that i keep finding that is horiz/vert. if anyone has a suggestion please lemme know. and along those lines is the horiz aspect really that important? and how important is the coolant aspect? i have to think that if you have coolant it can't be anything but good. thanks so much for all the time and good info i've gotten here, it is all much appreciated. cheers, jasonI imagine a really nice bandsaw is worlds nicer than the HF cheapy (like the one I have!), but with a little tweaking the harbor freight / jet type saws work surprisingly well. You have to get a decent blade though, it makes a huge difference.As for the horizontal aspect, you gotta have that - lower the blade down onto your work, watch it do it's thing. Maybe you're mixing up vertical and horizontal modes? I hardly ever use mine vertical, but then again I'm just a hobbyist guy.I think you'll like the bandsaw over a chopsaw. For me a big consideration is noise, because I hate noise, and I'm often in the basement screwing around when the kids are asleep. The bandsaw is no problem at all, nice and quiet. There's an entire yahoo group dedicated to the 4x6 bandsaw:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4x6bandsaw/Mine is the green harbor freight model, which I think is the sh1ttiest one you can get, yet I love it. - John
Reply:Some good advice in these posts.  I'm a collector of tools as well.  When the time comes to use them I'm happy I have them .. First off a Brain is the best tool. think then work. (some people don't do this and I even forget sometimes)For cutting I started with Plasma then bandsaw then drill press and it let me do a lot on my 4x4's. So I would recommend buying 2 cutters. The HF bandsaw (its just so cheap and works good) and a good plasma (stay away from chinese).Junk I typed first below this.--------------------------The best value tool I've bought has to be my HF Horizontal bandsaw.  I paid like $129 for it and I would easily to it again.  I use this thing all the time for my 4x4 fabbing passion.  My dad uses a portaband for his cuts and it seems to work well.  I plan on adding on to my arsenal soon.Torch - Gotta have it.  I use an Oxy/Propane torch.  But don't let a torch fool you. If you don't own your cylinders they can get expensive. If you do own them they are still expensive. lol. But its a very versatile tool.chop saw - Necessary Evil sometimes.  Load, Dirty but cheap (don't convert a wood mitre saw either. Motors aren't strong enough)Plasma - Awesome tool if you have a good one.  If your the artsy type with a super steady hand you can do some really cool crap.  I need template or straight edge .  (CNC table when you get really addicted)Compressor with die grinders - Another tool that is required in any shop.Angle Grinders - A must and add some flap disks to that.Drill Press - Yup gotta have it, small or big.  Very handy.  Mill - I dont have one.  It would take me a while to justify the space requirements for a good one.  Maybe a drill/mill combo.Lathe - I dont have one.  Great tool if you have the room but not usually found in a hobbiest's shop.
Reply:Originally Posted by madduckthanks guys, and gals if you're there, for the good info here. i've narrowed down my choices from what i've been reading here. first though thought i'd run through a few of the items i already have. as joe stated, yes i know this is an addiction. mate this with my jeep addiction and i'm one phucked up unit.(any parrotheads???) and the only cure is more cowbell. and more tools. i've got a nice/good 60gal craftsman compressor, bench grinder(nothing great but it works), 4 1/2" grinder, drills, drill press, cutting torches with bottles(got lucky on this one), and plenty of safety equipment. i need my health for my job so i am uber safe when it comes to working on things. in my first post i've mentioned what i'm planning on getting. and with all the info y'all have given me i've narrowed things down a bit.
Reply:Just throwing this out there, but another aspect of bandsaw vs. chopsaw is that the chopsaw throws some serious sparks, while a coolant equipped bandsaw doesn't.
Reply:I know the topic only mentioned chop saw, bandsaw, Plasma. But as an alternative for cutting I would think the prota band should get an hororable mention and I don't think it has been mentioned, although I may have missed it. I have worked in maintenance many years and every shop where I have worked had a verticle and horizontal band saw. But you could have taken them out and it would have been weeks before anybody noticed because the prota band was getting all the use. There is a broad range of things you can cut with it, not to mention its portability. I don't know how you would rank it in a strickly metal working enviornment, but in general maintenance work it has no peer.
Reply:madduck, if you can afford it I would get the 7 X 12 bandsaw I posted before in this thread. I cut on 45 degree angles a lot and never a problem. It cuts straight and true and has proven to be a good bandsaw. Here is a pic of my bandsaw from last December. It ran 12 plus hours per day for over 2 days never shutting off once. The pieces were all cut 45 degrees on one end. As you can see from the pic we dry cut all the material for easyer welding and one blade lasted the whole time. A chopsaw would never touch this job. Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:Jlittle - With a job like that, I guess you used an auto feeder.  Which was it? Wife, kids, brother in law?   Hobart 140 Handler w/ gasHyperTherm Powermax 380 Plasmaoxy/acetylene
Reply:I have 2 of the little Jet saws in the shop, and we use the hell out of em. 3 man shop, mostly working with stainless, and we step to the little 4x6 Jet bandsaws a hundred times a day. We do cut off lots of stuff in the horizontal position, especially stainless, but mostly, we just tilt em up, sit on em,  and use the little 2" square tables to hand trim, notch, cut curves, and chop to a sharpie line. I have cut curves in 3/4" plate with em, trimmed thousands of pieces of things like 3/8" round, cut fish mouths in 1 1/2" pipe, and cut shapes freehand from 16ga sheet. Also sometimes set the stop, weld one end of a bundle of a dozen or so pieces of 1/2" square, and cut little pieces all day long.I think the Jet saw is a bit better than the cheaper HF or similar absolute rock bottom models. Jets have their own castings- mine have "JET" cast right into the frame in 1/4" thick letters- so they dont really come off the same line. They have actual bearings for both sides and the back of the blades, and the motors on mine are made in Taiwan, not China. Jet has pretty decent parts and service on em, too.I have had 4 over the last 30 years or so, 2 dead ones out in the shed, and 2 live ones in the shop- and the amount we use em, I would say that is amazing.Have a  bigger, 7x10 Grizzly, and hate it. It has never worked right or cut straight, no matter what you do to fiddle with it. It has broken a few times, and it is the last tool anybody wants to use except if you are cutting something like 6" square tube, that wont fit in any other saw.Coolant is messy and unneeded on one of these.Gets all over the floor, stinks when you weld it. But good bi-metal blades, either Lennox or Starrett, are a necessity. Yep, they cost like $25 bucks each. I use 10-14 variable pitch for everyday, and keep a couple of 4 pitch around for cutting things over 1" round solid. But 99% of your stuff will cut just fine with a 10-14 variable. As long as you dont slam it down and break out a tooth, a bi-metal blade can last months. We get a month or two out of em on stainless. Much longer if we are only cutting mild steel. But once one tooth goes, its like a cartoon of a bird eating corn- zip, zip, zip, teeth start ripping out.I also have a plasma cutter, an ironworker, a cold saw, a sawzall, and a portaband- but if it will fit in the little Jet 4x6, its almost always quicker, and usually, since you can see your marks so well, just as accurate. And easy to freehand cut miters or notches, which is a pain with most of the others.
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick MoranJlittle - With a job like that, I guess you used an auto feeder.  Which was it? Wife, kids, brother in law?