boring out some DOM tubbing to a little larger ID

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I have some Odd sized 1-7/8" x.25 Wall DOM that was given to me and I have some threaded inserts that are 1.5" OD.  I don't have a lathe so here is my problem.  I need to open the last 1"-1.5" of the tubing to accept the insert.  Now this doesn't need to be perfectly centered since this is for a Traction bar only and will not rotate etc, but I want it to be pretty decent.  So my question is how do I go about boring out the end?  I have  3 ends to do so I can get it built.  I thought about a hole saw or using a burr grinder on the inside of it.  I do have a nice TD plasma but I can't think of how I could use it.  Or do I get a foot of 2" .25 wall and cut the end and weld it to the other stuff I have?  There isn't that much wall on the inserts so I don't want to take those and have them turned down either..Hopefully you guys have a suggestion cause I'm stuck on how to do this. (I really wanna figure out how to accomplish this cause they gave me 10 14' sticks of this stuff and it's really nice tubing.)
Reply:nobody got any ideas?
Reply:Your ID now is 1-3/8, or 1/8 shy of the 1-1/2 you need.I would try this: Hand grind a starting taper, and then use a shop press to push the 1-1/2  insert in.
Reply:I'd buy a stick of the correct size tubing. I'm sure a project will come along that you can use your freebies on.Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:So you only need to remove 1/16 off the wall to make the I.D. 1/8 bigger, and that new I.D. only needs to go in an inch/inch and a half? thats not much. If you are dead set on using that tubing you could open it with a a die grinder like you said doesnt have to be perfect.You could find a flap wheel that is slightly larger in diameter and squeeze that  in there, you might wanna go to a smaller machine shop and just ask if they will do it, we would get somebody about once a month askin to do a quick job, never minded the little change of pace. Go on a friday afternoon, and bring gifts like beer!
Reply:Yeah, ask someone who has a shop, they´ll do the job in 5 minutes...If not you can get a dremel and using some duct tape (the gray one) and some sanding paper and tape it so you have something like the pic...It works pretty well, just "roll" the sanding paper into a circular shape... then introduce in the tube making sure you turn it on and off inside the tube, cause outside it can get off and hit you.Centrifugal force will unravel it and you´ll have the sanding paper sanding the tube  Attached ImagesMy Babies: HF Drill pressHF Pipe Bender3   4.5" Black and Decker angle grindersLincoln Electric PROMIG 175that´s it!
Reply:Why not just work on the O.D. of the insert?Much easier to get rid of material on the O.D. rather than the I.D....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:you could grind a small taper on the insert, and then heat the end of the tube to red hot and press or tap the inset into the end of the hot tube. Heating the end of the tube will allow it to be expaneded fairly easy by using the insert as a mandrel. When the tube cools it will be a shrink fit.Just an idea.G3miller... 225g, s32p, 250x, 304, 12vs, MSW41     victor o/a thermal dynamics cutmaster 50 lenco panel spotter        hobart hf-boxG3 Farms.....raising cattle, hay, kids and hell, ...oh yeah I'm a fire sprinkler contractor by trade.
Reply:The OD of the insert is pretty easy to grind away a little bit from, or use a brake-cylinder hone on a drill, may take a while, but it will work and be pretty accurate.
Reply:Try using a brake hone to gring out the bore. It might take some time but Ill bet it would work.
Reply:Originally Posted by GadgetTry using a brake hone to gring out the bore. It might take some time but Ill bet it would work.