Header design and fabrication = opinions

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I'm more of a lurker on here but I'm looking for some opinions.What I would like is for you guys to give me your honest opinions on this header. I did NOT build this. I bought it due to lack of time to fabricate. The reason it is only tacked is because of the swap made has three different motor mounts and the collector may need some adjusting, at least thats what he told me. After I test fit it, I was going to send it back for his weldor to weld it up. After calling with my worries about the fitment and very large gaps, I'm a bit weary to send it back and may end up re-fitting everything correctly. I have seen some of the work you guys have done and would like some opinions.This is the headerMy opinion = it looks like a two year old put it together without any thought and in a rush.A few things that stick out.It has 1.5" primary tubes and the collector is made for 1.75" tubing.It has square port heads measuring 1.25", the flange made is slightly shy of that and all unevenThe tubing tacked to the flange looks like he cut it with a notcher, not one cut is even or flush with the flange never mind he did not form it around the flange. All of the corners are exposed.Also, not one of the pieces of tubing is centered with any hole in the flange.He also did not deburany of the tubing after cutting it with what looks like a chopsaw.Another random observation was, he tacked the collector on and did not put a merge in the centerof the 4 pieces of tubing inside the collector. One thing I did, I used some of my clamps to close the gaps with the collector. I managed to get rid of some but not all, there are still 3/16 gapsCheck it out and see for yourself.Why not use a collector made for the tubing being used?The flange, looks good.Thank YouSamLast edited by sqznby; 06-03-2013 at 09:23 PM.
Reply:Half-a$$ed at it's finest.
Reply:X2 that...a lot of work still to make them work. what is the application?
Reply:I would do this to my own stump jumper but I would NEVER tell anyone I did it. It would be one of those "It came like that and I just haven't fixed it yet." parts.I could never try to sell this quality of work to someone and I certainly wouldn't pay anyone for it.
Reply:Find something better. That is JUNK. No offense but you CAN find better quality.
Reply:I'd take a cheap *** china made header off ebay before running that.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:I've seen some pretty poor workmanship on exhaust parts in the last 5 years on my brother's projects.He's had me fix a few that were good enough to keep, but not good enough to use as-is.Must be getting common to put out exhaust that is not really well done.  From what I've seen, it will get welded up as-is.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Sam,I suck at pipe welding, and I would've done a better job than that! I think the welder who put it together has been eating too much exhaust. When we had to replace the exhaust system on the used and abused 1981 Suburban we bought - starting at the front with a shattered exhaust manifold and all the way back to the tips - we did a lot of online shopping and found a great set of headers on JC Whitney for about $110 (2011? pricing) and got one of Magnaflow's aluminized steel kits from Summit Racing. Less than $300 total for the two. We went up to a 3" on the way out. My husband and I decided since I haven't struck an arc in way too long and never really worked on anything that thin to just buy the hangers and U-clamps that seal the system properly. (Maybe another $100 for those - and we overbought. I think there's still a couple of extras in my garage somewhere.) Besides, we have a lot of mods we want to do so it's not a permanent system, but it works. And doesn't leak!!RuthThe family toys:Miller Maxstar 150 S, with TIGGoWeld baby wirefeedOxy/Acetylene rig
Reply:jacklegtackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:"header" is junk.  I do like the piece of metal it's sitting on, though...
Reply:Check out these guys for some ideas.You can even mock up something, send it to them as a template and get back something amazing.http://www.stainlessheaders.com/index.aspx
Reply:Thanks for all of your input everyone, I appreciate it. Originally Posted by Showdog75Half-a$$ed at it's finest.
Reply:Originally Posted by a1998z3X2 that...a lot of work still to make them work. what is the application?
Reply:If you already payed for it then use it as a template ...cut it and tact to the way you want it and get with a fab guy that can make you a nice one if you don't think you can...also what part of NC?
Reply:I bought Doug Thorley Tri Y headers for my BBC 454 in my 1-ton crew cab dually. They were the only headers I could find with a decent flange on them. I use my truck to tow. I could see a cheap set of headers glowing red in my mind's eye. Pass.I had them Jett Hott coated inside and out prior to install. It was cheaper and faster to buy chrome headers and have them stripped than to order them bare. There are so many things that I could weld together but, I have never made a set of headers and I could see the time involved and my frustration that would ensue. Suffice to say that spending a couple hundred bucks was money well spent!I don't plan on building any headers anytime soon either. So I don't feel like I lost out on the experience of learning. But hot dog I love to see other guys make em!!Keep posting pictures bro!Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Nope  Sorry Fail....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:There needs to be a little green smiley emoticon which would entail my opinion...........Barf !
Reply:No biggie.I could easily have that thing perfect in no time. just cut and shape the tubes at the flange and a little hammering on the collector and then weld it up.www.performancealuminumfabrication.com
Reply:Originally Posted by thordehrCheck out these guys for some ideas.You can even mock up something, send it to them as a template and get back something amazing.http://www.stainlessheaders.com/index.aspx
Reply:I am in raleigh too!, and love old toyotas!Are the ports actually squares though?miller syncrowave 250hobart handler 140home made 400 amp engine driven in progress...
Reply:Hey jdchmiel, where about do you live? I'm actually in Cary.Where you at the recent cars & coffee?Yeah, the ports are square. Here's a shot of one of my spares. Not the greatest shot, hah.
Reply:Wow, thats some sh|t fabrication.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:I don't think there was any true chance at saving that!PROUD   AMERICAN
Reply:What the hell was he thinking? That's piss poor quality in work.Miller Maxstar 200 SDPiperliner #10 Gold
Reply:nope, have never been to a cars and coffee, but I keep meaning to go to one.  A friend of mine goes regularly with his supercharged cobalt.I am surprised how square the ports are! I have seen square ports before, but they typically have a decent radius in the corner.And I am in N Raleigh, 6 forks / millbrook area.miller syncrowave 250hobart handler 140home made 400 amp engine driven in progress...Is there such a thing as "steel caulk"? Looks like something I would have done!
Reply:steel caulk = cold mig weld miller syncrowave 250hobart handler 140home made 400 amp engine driven in progress...
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverWow, thats some sh|t fabrication.
Reply:Well, I hope he's paying YOU to let him build those; if not I'd pull the plug asap before you incur any more damage.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverWell, I hope he's paying YOU to let him build those; if not I'd pull the plug asap before you incur any more damage.
Reply:It is salvageable. I fix junk like that all the time!The collector just needs to be repressed and the runners just need a skim taken off each one. The flange isn't pretty but it can be cleaned up as well.Is this one of those toyotas? I had to fix this ebay header a guy bought for this car awhile ago.
Reply:I agree, it is salvageable. I used some vise grips to squeeze the collector together, it worked but it still has some decent size gaps. When I take it off, I'll re-press it and be done with it. What my plan is for the flange is to cut the tubes free and open up the flange holes, cut four new tubes and form them into the flange and have them stick out and inch or so and run the rest off of them. When I finish that I'll send it the machine shop to have them finish it up for me. While I have the flange free, I'll make some new flanges out of half inch stainless and make another header out of stainless.I now a couple of guys looking for a header with the same swap as I have.No, I wish. Thats a 4AGE, beautiful motor. Mine is a 3tc. This is mine. Its a 1.8ltr Hemi.
Reply:Very nice, I agree go with stainless in that bay. Looks pretty close to the same header bolt pattern and whatnot as the one in my pic.
Reply:Yeah, stainless is a much better option. After I fix this one, I will make a jig off of it and make some stainless ones.It does look very similar. I kinda wish I had a 4age, fuel injected is so nice. Thats my other project, making a fuel injected intake manifold. I think that would make this motor almost perfect.