Need Opinion with Millermatic 200 arc popping problem

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I am new to this forum and new to welding.  I have recently acquired my grandfathers Millermatic 200 and his oxy-acetylene torch.  The welder has not been used for about 10 years and going by the serial number it was made it 1980. Every time I try to weld all it will do is pop and spatter like crazy.  If I turn the current way down then it will stop popping everywhere, but then the wire will just glow red once it makes contact and slowly pile up. It isn’t pooling, it keeps the shape of the wire and just piles up on itself.  I have searched this forum for the past couple of days and it seems that I may need to replace the cap bank. I wanted to see If I could get the opinion of someone with experience than me.  Here is a link to a video showing how much it is popping. So far I have replaced the ground cable, power cable, liner, and gun control cable.  I have taken the case off and cleaned as much dust and dirt out that I could.  I cleaned the selector switch contacts.  I am using C25 and .035 ER70S-6 from airgas. Any help will be appreciated.
Reply:You settings look wrong.Manual for MM200: http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1303p_mil.pdfCheck page 29, table 6-2 for settings.If it has a pulse switch, set it to continuous, not pulse.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:The characteristic in your video is usually an issue of way to high of a wire speed setting or to low of a voltage for the wire speed setting.  Does the rate at which wire is being fed vary when your turn the dial?ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:Dave,I used the setting that the table suggested along with multiple other settings. It does not have a pulse switch.Dan, Yes the speed does change when you turn the dial and I have tried numerous speed settings.Thanks
Reply:Do you have the output polarity set correctly for solid wire? It should be electrode positive. Or if its simpler for you (not familiar with the MM 200) the work lead (ground clamp lead)  should be negative.ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:Yes the polarity is set correctly.Millermatic 200 Miller Spectrum 375 Cutmate
Reply:Sorry about having to ask such basic questions.I have another one for you though.You are aware that along with the 1-6 voltage settings there is also a high and low range voltage selector?What material thickness were you trying to run a weld bead on? Watching the video again, to me it looks like you need more voltage.ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:Ok, I just did an Internet  Image search for the Millermatic 200 and see that the high and low ranges are jacks on the face of the unit, so those shouldn't have been to hard to miss.ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:I'll also add it looks like you need to tighten up your stick out. Your contact tip to work distance (stick out)  should be around 3/8" - 1/2".ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:Not a problem with the basic questions. I am welding on .25" and I have tried both high and low voltages. I know my stick out might be a little far in the video but that was because I was trying to hold the camera while doing it. Even when I tighten my stick out it still does it.Millermatic 200 Miller Spectrum 375 Cutmate
Reply:I'd check all electrical connections on the input side and internally. Make sure your getting a solid 230-240 volt input to the unit. As old as the unit is, it is definitely possible that you could have some bad Caps or maybe even a diode.ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:If you're getting a solid 230 -240 input and all connections are tight. Before testing any Caps or diodes, I'd measure the voltage at the input and then output side on the contactor. Just to make certain I wasn't getting a voltage drop through it, after all it is potentially 30 + years old.ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:I will definitely check the voltages when I get home today. I have checked most of the connections already to see if they are tight. Had a couple that needed to be snugged up. I have access to another MM200 that I might pull the cap bank out of and check to see if that fixes it before I buy new ones.Millermatic 200 Miller Spectrum 375 Cutmate
Reply:When you get the machine dialed in you will love it! I wouldn't trade mine for a new 250Tim Beeker.
Reply:I know Duane had one of his caps let go and it effected the way it welded. Here's the thread he did when he "recapped" his MM200.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=39389.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:How is the wire tension set?Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Wow, I just now watched your vid. What was you heat range set on and what was the wire speed?Maybe next time show the front of the machine with the settings visible, would help alot.Tim Beeker.
Reply:Replace the liner and contact tip.....make sure the feed rolls, liner and tip are the correct size for the wire your running...... make sure your spool tension and feed roll pressure is properly set.......clean the feed roll drive gears along with the entire feeder assembly... clean and check all connections...... make sure your polarity is set correctly.  To me it looks like your voltage is too high, wire speed too low and erratic along with your polarity being reversed.
Reply:Try this: set voltage selector to 5 on the low side, wire speed to 35-40 to start, hold the tip about 3/8" off the metal. you have to fine tune with the wire speed. See what happens.
Reply:Here are three videos of what it does at different settings. Voltage set to HighHeat set to 1Wire speed is 55Polarity is normalVoltage set to LowHeat is on 5Wire speed is 55Polarity is normalVoltage is set to LowHeat is on 3Wire speed is 40 Polarity is normal Originally Posted by DanIf you're getting a solid 230 -240 input and all connections are tight. Before testing any Caps or diodes, I'd measure the voltage at the input and then output side on the contactor. Just to make certain I wasn't getting a voltage drop through it, after all it is potentially 30 + years old.
Reply:Did you try clean metal?What kind of flow meter are you using?  Are you definitely getting good gas flow?Honestly, I'd use a perfectly clean piece of stock with the ground clamp clamped right to it to eliminate more variables.  Hold the mig gun closer to the piece as well.  Ive definitely had a little of what you have going on if the material is dirty and there's too much stickout.Last edited by Drf255; 02-27-2013 at 05:24 AM.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Check your input jumper inside the machine for the right voltage. Download the manual. The female portion of the rinse connectors is known for melting the plastic inside the case. Contacctor may have dirty points, tthey can usually be sanded. Have an experienced welder come over andit out.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerContacctor may have dirty points, tthey can usually be sanded. .
Reply:Looks almost exactly the same as if you were running straight argon, which just pops.You may want to borrow a friends bottle to rule out wrong gas. Airgas screws up sometimes.Last edited by shovelon; 02-27-2013 at 11:24 AM.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:First I want to say thank you to everyone that has replied so far. I appreciate all of the input. I have now used another MM200 side by side with mine. I can lay a bead with the other MM200 just fine. Mine still acts the same way. I used the same bottle of C25 with the same flow meter, the same ground cable and the same piece of metal. Both machines were set to low voltage, #5 Heat, 55 wire speed and normal polarity. They both used the same power source when I was testing. I did not get a chance to swap guns to see if that made a difference yet.  Originally Posted by Drf255Did you try clean metal?What kind of flow meter are you using?  Are you definitely getting good gas flow?Honestly, I'd use a perfectly clean piece of stock with the ground clamp clamped right to it to eliminate more variables.  Hold the mig gun closer to the piece as well.  Ive definitely had a little of what you have going on if the material is dirty and there's too much stickout.Originally Posted by shovelonLooks almost exactly the same as if you were running straight argon, which just pops.You may want to borrow a friends bottle to rule out wrong gas. Airgas screws up sometimes.
Reply:OK, now that you have heard ALL the causes and it still pops as you say......Get someone that welds with that machine to try it.......  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:I'd definitely check to see if you're getting a voltage drop through the contactor. If the schematic in the OM that had a link to it in this thread is correct for your unit, the voltage should be AC. The value is going to vary depending on the tap selected. I don't know an exact value but it'll probably be around 50 volts or less. It seems like you're possibly only getting half power. So if the contactor were to check out fine, I'd probably check the diodes next.ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:You could do a OCV test at the out put jacks. Voltage tap selections of high and 6 should give you a DC voltage around 40.ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:Originally Posted by Trey1086First I want to say thank you to everyone that has replied so far. I appreciate all of the input. I have now used another MM200 side by side with mine. I can lay a bead with the other MM200 just fine. Mine still acts the same way. I used the same bottle of C25 with the same flow meter, the same ground cable and the same piece of metal. Both machines were set to low voltage, #5 Heat, 55 wire speed and normal polarity. They both used the same power source when I was testing. I did not get a chance to swap guns to see if that made a difference yet. I am using a cheap flow meter at the moment but it does the same thing even when I put a victor flowmeter on it from another MM200.I have used clean metal and get the same result. My ground has always been direct to the piece I am working on. My stickout might look like a little much in the video, but that is just because I am filming.  The input jumper shows to be correct according to the manual. I am not sure what you mean by the rinse connector, could you please explain.If I do clean the contactor, I will be using a burnishing tool to do so. Thank you though.