Champagne cup size for welding thin stainless?

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Hi All:I'm welding 3/32" diameter ss rod onto ss rings made from 3/16" round stock and am having a heck of a time getting it right. I'm presently using a #7 lens and the argon is set around 10. How much current should be used though? I've been experimenting in the 30-40 amp range, but do I maybe need to lower the amps and slow down?I'm thinking I need better gas coverage, for one thing, and am thinking about getting some gas lenses with the internal filter's that help spread the argon more evenly, but don't know what size I would need for my application. What do you guys suggest? I'm presently eyeballing this set on e-bay... http://www.ebay.com/itm/201087636280...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Reply:When doing small things like that the welded area is never out of the flow of argon. If you can't get good color on the steel you may be over heating from low amperage. Another thing is the post flow, if it looks silver and then the flow stops and the steel "flashes" with color that's not acceptable for what you are doing use more post flow.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Should I be able to make this type of weld with a regular #7  lens?
Reply:Those aren't "champagne cups", they are regular gas lens cups...This is a Champagne cup (this is the actual product name)Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Thanks for the clarification, I didn't know that Champagne referred to an actual company name. I purchased one of the regular gas lens cups yesterday at my local welding supply shop and will be experimenting today to see if I can figure out the right combination of shielding and current to accomplish what I'm trying to do...
Reply:#7 cup is fine. Your gas flow is not. Figure 2 time the cup size id in 16ths(hence #7) minimum, to 3 times cup size id maximum. That translates to 14cfh minimum to 21cfh maximum, with the average at 17.5cfh. That is the flow you want, not 10cfh. Do you have high speed pulse? Kicking that in will wet out the puddle faster and allow you to weld with less heat input.If you want a gas lens kit, get it from Usaweld. Their stubby kit is excellent.  http://www.usaweld.com/Stubby-Gas-Le...r1711stglc.htmLast edited by shovelon; 11-19-2014 at 12:40 PM.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:I have limited experience with this type of nozzles but I just found this video I found interesting.
Reply:I'm working with an Everlast 160STH PowerArc and unfortunately do not have high speed pulse. Nor do I have a foot pedal...yet...so I'm probably trying to learn this the hard way!
Reply:Originally Posted by marbz74I'm working with an Everlast 160STH PowerArc and unfortunately do not have high speed pulse. Nor do I have a foot pedal...yet...so I'm probably trying to learn this the hard way!
Reply:It has both HF Start and lift start capabilities...I'm HF starting my weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by taz00I have limited experience with this type of nozzles but I just found this video I found interesting.
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarInstead of doing all that just buy a large gas lens and a #15 cup.  Nearly the same size for the same benefit without all the hassle.
Reply:Well I've been bored enough to tinker with some nozzles as well, but not to the extent of machining things lol.Last edited by Oscar; 11-20-2014 at 12:26 PM. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:5 pulses per second is all you really need (if you aren't epileptic). Play around with your background current to find out what you like. Your background current is going to control what amperage to use but try starting in the 30 or 40 amp range. That 1/8" gas lense with the larger cup and a 15cfh flow rate will be fine. Use as little amperage as possible to get a puddle then use a lot of manipulation to get fusion.  As soon as you have fusion run like hell and terminate the arc while you are moving(Don't stop traveling before you terminate the arc).  Use at least a 5 second post flow.  Keep a short arc length.  It might not work for you but it has worked for me for welding outside corner joints on 22ga. SS.  Give it a try
Reply:Originally Posted by jef15 pulses per second is all you really need (if you aren't epileptic). Play around with your background current to find out what you like. Your background current is going to control what amperage to use but try starting in the 30 or 40 amp range. That 1/8" gas lense with the larger cup and a 15cfh flow rate will be fine. Use as little amperage as possible to get a puddle then use a lot of manipulation to get fusion.  As soon as you have fusion run like hell and terminate the arc while you are moving(Don't stop traveling before you terminate the arc).  Use at least a 5 second post flow.  Keep a short arc length.  It might not work for you but it has worked for me for welding outside corner joints on 22ga. SS.  Give it a try
Reply:I'd like to have one of those home-made jobbies for schedule 10 stainless pipe.
Reply:Originally Posted by jef15 pulses per second is all you really need (if you aren't epileptic). Play around with your background current to find out what you like. Your background current is going to control what amperage to use but try starting in the 30 or 40 amp range. That 1/8" gas lense with the larger cup and a 15cfh flow rate will be fine. Use as little amperage as possible to get a puddle then use a lot of manipulation to get fusion.  As soon as you have fusion run like hell and terminate the arc while you are moving(Don't stop traveling before you terminate the arc).  Use at least a 5 second post flow.  Keep a short arc length.  It might not work for you but it has worked for me for welding outside corner joints on 22ga. SS.  Give it a try
Reply:I only add the filler when I can see it beginning to hey hole.  If you are welding clear to  the end of the part you will have to add filler at the end to prevent melt-through/craters.  It is not for everyone.  Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Reply:Originally Posted by jef1I only add the filler when I can see it beginning to hey hole.  If you are welding clear to  the end of the part you will have to add filler at the end to prevent melt-through/craters.  It is not for everyone.  Sorry I couldn't be of more help.