Bunk bed

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I plan to build a bunk bed rather than buy. I looked at a few and would be similar in price to buy but not built as well. I will be using 1 1/2" 11 guage square tubing and 3/4" 11 guage square tubing. Here is what I was quoted for steel HSS 1-1/2 * 1-1/2 * 11ga @ 24'             $36.72 a stk HSS 3/4 * 3/4 * .120 @ 11ga @ 24'      $18.24 a stk and here is a sketch. Attached Images
Reply:Would it be a good idea to put a diagonal brace along the back or side opposite of the ladder?  Keep it from twisting.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Looks good to me.I would imagine if the bunks are welded to the frame it would be plenty strong without additional bracing! But an engineer, I am not!
Reply:I would have tabs on the bed frame to bolt to the posts. I wouldnt be able to get it through the door if welded solid. The ladder will have hooks to hang over bed frame rail and rest against bottom frame rail. should be sturdy enough without bracing but once built if bracing is needed will add.
Reply:Just a reminder that it will probably need some bolting as once built it won't fit through the door Unless of course you weld it in the bedroom How old are the kids?Top bunk rail should have a couple pickets so that they don't roll out/off.Edit- posted while you were posting Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:I'm wondering if there's enough of a fulcrum to tip the bed with the cantilevered part. I'd probably put legs under the cantilevered part as you know a kid will jump on it.You might be able to dump the 3/4 square tube. I've seen several other options to support the mattress. One I've seen uses aircraft cable threaded thru holes in angle iron for support. The one I'm working on for a customer, the bead frame will be angle iron and the mattresses will be supported with plywood to save money. I'll run at least one or two cross members under the center of the plywood most likely. If she doesn't want to go with plywood, them I'm going with the aircraft cable most likely.The design I'm working on will be hybrid wood and steel. I'm basing if off the design they had in my dorm in college. The wood posts can be set up so the mattress is either close to the floor, or up about 3' off the ground by flipping the posts over. They are set up so they can be used as single beds, or stacked as a bunk bed. She's looking for additional clothing storage, so I'm planning two large rolling drawers to go under the raised lower bunk, then two pull out drawers attached to the raised upper bunk. Still working on exact heights for the bunks and draw units, but the top bunk is probably going to be 5'-6' off the floor. Lower bunk, top will most likely be roughly 2' off the floor..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I built a couple of bunk beds last year, so I will share my goofs... er... make that wisdom earned the hard way.  Imagine a child and their attempts to get an appendage (ANY appendage up to and including their head) into any gap in the bed frame you can imagine. Don't forget to consider where the mattress can make a arm/leg trap similar to those finger traps that tighten when you pull... Adjust the details accordingly...
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWI'm wondering if there's enough of a fulcrum to tip the bed with the cantilevered part. I'd probably put legs under the cantilevered part as you know a kid will jump on it.You might be able to dump the 3/4 square tube. I've seen several other options to support the mattress. One I've seen uses aircraft cable threaded thru holes in angle iron for support. The one I'm working on for a customer, the bead frame will be angle iron and the mattresses will be supported with plywood to save money. I'll run at least one or two cross members under the center of the plywood most likely. If she doesn't want to go with plywood, them I'm going with the aircraft cable most likely.The design I'm working on will be hybrid wood and steel. I'm basing if off the design they had in my dorm in college. The wood posts can be set up so the mattress is either close to the floor, or up about 3' off the ground by flipping the posts over. They are set up so they can be used as single beds, or stacked as a bunk bed. She's looking for additional clothing storage, so I'm planning two large rolling drawers to go under the raised lower bunk, then two pull out drawers attached to the raised upper bunk. Still working on exact heights for the bunks and draw units, but the top bunk is probably going to be 5'-6' off the floor. Lower bunk, top will most likely be roughly 2' off the floor.
Reply:I would build it so that you can take the bed apart and get it through a doorway. I would not use 11 ga. 14ga with a rectangular profile welded vertical is plenty rigid. square tube 11 ga is too heavy for its own good. I never use 11ga., especially a square profile. Other than that looks good. Ikea sells hardwood slats that are dirt cheap and plenty strong for supporting a mattress. You could just build an angle iron tray for the slats to sit inside and you'd be golden. back in '10 I built two sets of bunk beds for a client.they were actually 4 individual, twin XL size bed frames. The individual beds can stack into bunk beds using .25" CRS laser cut & formed brackets. The brackets used 1/2-12 hardware to bolt the beds together. I don't build sloppy work anyway but keeping the tolerance so bolting this all together took extra care.When in the bunk format, the two lower beds used the taller "headboards" on both ends of the side rails to give more headroom since the headboard is taller than the footboard. The two upper bunks used the "footboards" at both ends of the side rails. The ladder comes off via hooks and the guard rails are a tight slip fit and will come off once the kids are older. All tubing is 14ga PO steel with clear gloss powder coating on all parts. invoice was $5500. Client just wanted bunk beds but as a designer, i wanted them to get 18+ years of use out of these beds by being able to let their kids use them their whole life at home and never break them. Hence the effort to suggest the twin XL size (same length as queen) and modular design that can either bunk or be independent. Client was stoked!side railcompletestacking bracketssame beds, not stacked
Reply:the rungs on that ladder dont look evenly spaced..and i know you'll space em ten inches apart so the kid cant get stuck in there....same for the 3/4 under the mattresses
Reply:I would go with 16 ga or 14 ga tubing.  1/8 inch is way over kill.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jimmy_pop... 14ga with a rectangular profile welded vertical is plenty rigid. square tube 11 ga is too heavy for its own good ...
Reply:hey Jimmypop , on your end stacking photo it shows a 90 angle clip. Why not just make it a 180  ''U'' bend ? That angle clip looks like it is missing its other half to me.
Reply:11ga is going to leave some ugly bruises, with no real structural benefit.  I made one out of 16 gauge, and it's plenty strong for two adults up top.You can get the wood strips for under the mattress (so it will have some give to it) an Ikea.  Lots cheaper than more steel there, and less to hit your head on.Round off all the corners as aggressively as you can.  You want to do all you can to not have to return your kids friends to their parents with bruises on them.There are laws/codes about the spacing and height of the rail up top.  Yours looks like a kid will slip right through.The American Pediatrics Association (or whatever it's called) doesn't recommend you let a kid less than six sleep on the top.And you'll want foot pads of some sort or it will gouge into your flooring.  And if you ever plan on moving, you'll want to make it so it can be unbolted into pieces.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1hey Jimmypop , on your end stacking photo it shows a 90 angle clip. Why not just make it a 180  ''U'' bend ? That angle clip looks like it is missing its other half to me.
Reply:thank you for the input everyone! I got to school tonight and they have some 1 1/2 14  gauge and it seems like it's plenty for the job.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jimmy_popThe reason is because I didn't want holes in both sides of the footboard and headboard. The FB and HB are symmetrical so when the home owner puts the beds into the non-bunk format, you'll position the threaded bung away from view as you enter into the room.  The HB bung would be against the wall and the FB would only be visible while in the bed. I supplied a 1/2-13 set screw to plug the hole but i doubt the owner will manage to keep up with them.
Reply:No steel today but might be ready tomorrow. I did get my bottle filled with c-25 and my welder is running real nice now that I wired the barn and its not on an extension cord.
Reply:Picked up my order today and got started. I have acouple parts tacked so far and plan to work on it more tomorrow. Attached Images
Reply:There is no excuse not to have 45'd those corners, especially with kids crawling all over this thing.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jimmy_popThere is no excuse not to have 45'd those corners, especially with kids crawling all over this thing.
Reply:Actually there is an "excuse" I capped with 1/4  drilled and tapped and that is where it will mount to the post.  Will  add pictures when I get back to my computer
Reply:Originally Posted by makbootzyActually there is an "excuse" I capped with 1/4  drilled and tapped and that is where it will mount to the post.  Will  add pictures when I get back to my computer
Reply:no worries. I downloaded Google sketch up about 30  minutes prior to posting, so I have limited abilities with it and used only for an overall sense of what I wanted to do with the build. I appreciate the concern though
Reply:Here is what I got done yesterday. Both bunks finish welded and ground smooth then with a wire wheel on my grinder went over all welds and corners. The top bunk drilled and tapped and post were drilled for top bunk. Attached Imagesanother Attached Images
Reply:I got a little more work done today. I plasma cut out section of rail to add in 1/4" flat for the post to mount to. I also started on the ladder. Attached Images
Reply:I like the fact you thought ahead enough to make the rungs of the ladder flat when the ladder is attached. I also like the heavier piece you inserted so you could thread it. Both shows you are putting some thought into all of this. Not sure if I'd have gone the plate route route or used thread inserts off the top of my head.You might want to think about using the grinder a bit lighter in the future. Those grinding wheel marks will be a PITA to buff out. A flap disk or sanding pad would be a better choice once you knock off the high stuff, or better yet a belt sander. The kids won't care, but if you want to make nice furniture in the future, not putting in those marks in the 1st place will be a big help. Once you get past the original top of steel like that, you are going to using bondo to hide the marks. You are putting a lot of effort into this and I hate to see things like this trashed by something a simple as running a grinder. Guess it just offends the craftsman in me... You are putting a lot of effort into the details, it should also extend to your finishing techniques as well..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Mak, if you will clamp a piece of angle or 1/8 flat stock to your tube, you can use it as a fence for your plasma.  Mine works out to adding about 1/4" to my cutline to have it cut where I want..  To do a plunge cut, simply rotate your tip out to about 35-40 degrees, pull the trigger and rotate back to vertical, then start your pull.DSW called it well on your grinder usage.  I would work your grinder flatter.  When my students grind metal using the edge of the grinder, it leaves what I call "hatchet marks".  Working flatter takes a lot of that away.I always try to have at least two grinders handy.  One with a rock on it for "git 'er done", and another with a fine wheel, or flapper wheel on it, to finish things out.Good start to your project.
Reply:I have some flap discs, im just not sure on the finish I want to have on the bed yet. I might use a textured paint so most of it you wont see but in these pictures it is not complete. The whole bed will be gone over once complete.
Reply:More progress. I had to order more steel bc I am adding new design features. The ladder is finished so I went ahead and painted. The finish is rustoleum metallic then sprayed black on that and dragged my wire brush across it then clear coat. Attached Images
Reply:my $0.02, I'd a couple verticles to the front rail and the two end rails. the front to prevent sliding through the crack, and the ends to prevent pillows from slipping through.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammermy $0.02, I'd a couple verticles to the front rail and the two end rails. the front to prevent sliding through the crack, and the ends to prevent pillows from slipping through.
Reply:Coming out great man! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:That's a nice finish. Great idea, I'll probably steal it one day
Reply:It's looking great too btw! Nice work!!
Reply:Originally Posted by makbootzyThe finish is rustoleum metallic then sprayed black on that and dragged my wire brush across it then clear coat.
Reply:excellent!!
Reply:The bed project looks great and should definitely last a few lifetimes.  I might be wrong, but I feel that those steel rungs on the ladder will bite the top bunk dweller a few times over the few years he/she will be using it. (besides the fact that they'll be cold on bare feet)  I know they have rounded corners, but some sort of rubber coating sure would be nice.  Maybe something as simple as bicycle handlebar wrap?  When growing up, we had metal edges on our stair treads and I still have a scar on my shin to prove it. JackJackFort Loramie, OhioMilermatic Autoset 180
Reply:Good luck bringing that in the house! Looks good.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleGood luck bringing that in the house! Looks good.
Reply:nice idea on the beds I may fix one like that thxsMILLERMATIC 212 AUTOSETMILLER BOBCAT 250MILLER DIALARC HFMILLER 15A SPOOLGUNMILLER S32P WIRE FEEDERTHERMAL ARC 186 AC/DCPAKMASTER 100XL PLUS
Reply:Looks good. Been wanting to build one for the kids, but life gets in the way.We are on our way to being farmers! Our site is always under construction so check back often for updates.  http://www.philosophyfarmstyle.com/
Reply:thanks everyone. There is a lot to be done still and its way too cold to work on it right now! plus we are getting last I looked like 12-15" of snow. I will make sure to get pictures of the small details as I get more done. Thanks for looking.
Reply:I am very impressed! That's a big project that requires persistence! You nailed it.PlasmaCam CNC cutterLathe and Band SawClamps
Reply:Did a few things (grinding, some paint and tabs) Here I added tabs under the bunks to take weight off of the bolts holding it together. I also started on staining and here is a pic just set in place, still havent added tabs on the ends yet. Attached Images
Reply:Looking good!
Reply:Looks great and very sturdy already. Like the stain. The kids will be happy and delighted to have that. Great job!
Reply:I put on some paint and now working on lacquer. I called in for more steel to fininsh the bottom but havent heard anything so will add it as a bolt on later. In the picture at the bottom is where I need the extra 1 1/2 (I have a scrap peice laying there) and the wood is not what will be used just to get an idea. I am also thinking of adding drawers under the bottom bunk. Attached Images
Reply:sweet bunk beds dude