Air Compressor Questions

admin

First off - Happy Remembrance Day / Veterans Day - - Lest we forget...Not sure if this is an appropriate topic to post, but I'm sure the Mod's will let me know.I just bought a used Sanborn, 60 gal., 3 cylinder upright air compressor. The name plate information is hard to see, but I think the model number is G500BC60V. Anyway, I am looking into different options for plumbing it into my garage/shop, but have a couple of questions to start. Hopefully someone can help.Clicking/Chattering:After running for a bit, relatively quietly, the compressor starts to click or chatter quite loudly. Using my mechanics stethescope I tried to track the sound. It seems to be loudest when held it onto what appears to be an in-line check valve plumbed in just near the top of the receiver (see photo). The check valve is also quite warm - warmer than the lines leading in or out of it. Could this be the source of the noise? I'm thinking of replacing it with an in-tank valve with an unloader port (currently I can't seem to find an unloader). Would this be better?Vibration:While running the compressor vibrates quite a bit. Actually, it's more like a "wobble" and since it is top-heavy, it tries to move around a bit. I know I could bolt it to the floor, but I would prefer not to. Is this normal for an upright compressor?Thanks in advance for any help. Attached ImagesWeekend MigBackyard MechanicWelder: DECASTAR 150E, Wire Feed w/ Gas Potential (not currently using gas)
Reply:An unloader is always a good idea.  It makes it much easier for the motor to start.As for your check-valve getting warm . . .of course its warm.  Its being fed the freshly compressed air.  Gases heat up as they're compressed, and so the air coming from the pistons, going into the tank, will be warm, just as the air coming out at your tools, will be cold.Vibration is normal.  Instead of bolting it to the floor, you can bolt it to wooden slats, that enlarge its footprint.  You could also install a link-belt.  That would significantly reduce vibration.Above all though, I would come up with something to guard that belt, or at least place the compressor in a remote location, and plumb the air away from it, so you're not plugging in a hose, right under the flywheel.
Reply:Here are some of my observations concerning your post.The hose leading to the Check Valve is not an OEM installation. I could be wrong but I have never seen a hardware store quality hose used for the output of a compressor pump as pictured. Only ones I have seen are hard piped. Also the picture shows that the Drive Belt is loose, may be the source of your vibration problem and noise problem but that is iffy.Most single stage pumps as pictured are good for about 125 PSI. Does the unit pump up to 125 PSI and does the pressure stay stable once the compressor shuts off?All in all you may have a good unit but it seems that the previous owner doctored  it up a bit. Hope it works out for your needs.
Reply:the clicking noise is from the check valve opening and closing, the higher the pressure in the tank the harder it gets worked (opened and closed)the belt does look loose to me also and if you look at the compressor pulley in the 7:00 position, looks like there is a chunk of it missing, the pulley could be bent just a little, might have been knocked over at one time.bolt some 4 x 4 under it and rework the drain valve to where it is easy to get to and operate, if you can't get to it you will not take the time to drain the tank.i think i would loose the pex pipe for some steel pipe or at least heavy wall copper tube, not sure what the temp rating is of the pex, but thats just me, i never did like plastic pipe for air lines.just my 2 cents worthG3Last edited by G3farms; 11-11-2008 at 05:53 PM.miller... 225g, s32p, 250x, 304, 12vs, MSW41     victor o/a thermal dynamics cutmaster 50 lenco panel spotter        hobart hf-boxG3 Farms.....raising cattle, hay, kids and hell, ...oh yeah I'm a fire sprinkler contractor by trade.
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitman...You could also install a link-belt.  That would significantly reduce vibration.
Reply:Originally Posted by OMS...The hose leading to the Check Valve is not an OEM installation...
Reply:Originally Posted by G3farms...if you look at the compressor pulley in the 7:00 position, looks like there is a chunk of it missing...
Reply:My old antique 2 stage will go 150psi all day long.  I usually leave the switch at 125 for air tools, but when I paint, I kick it up to 150.  Seems to do ok, but maybe because it's a 2cyl.  I don't know."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Can't tell for sure, but it loks like the motor pulley cracked loose on the hub and someone welded it back. If it wobbles, that could be your vibration.  The check valve appears to be one designed for liquids which is probably why it rattles w/ air.                        MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammMy old antique 2 stage will go 150psi all day long.  I usually leave the switch at 125 for air tools, but when I paint, I kick it up to 150.  Seems to do ok, but maybe because it's a 2cyl.  I don't know.
Reply:Originally Posted by mla2ofusCan't tell for sure, but it loks like the motor pulley cracked loose on the hub and someone welded it back. If it wobbles, that could be your vibration.  The check valve appears to be one designed for liquids which is probably why it rattles w/ air...
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammGeez, scratch that!!!!!!!!!!!!!It's a single stage, and it keeps goin' to 150psi...
Reply:Originally Posted by Weekend MigCan you explain what a "link belt" is?Thanks.
Reply:Yes you can see where the pulley on the motor has been welded and most likely is the source of the vibration (replace pulley). A taper lock type pulley would be best. And there may be a reason no in tank check valve, but I would get rid of the water check valve for sure. And use a air check valve. The oil level in the site glass looks to be overfilled, or it could just be the way the picture turned out.Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitman...1/2" rubber air hose (the red goodyear stuff) clamped onto brass barbs is extremely easy to work with, and would replace that cheezy pump to tank line pretty well.  Copper bent to fit, with flare fittings would be ideal.I definitely recommend the rubber air hose for the link between your tank, and your supply lines.  You want something flexible, so the compressor's vibrations don't stress your piping system.
Reply:Originally Posted by STwelder...The oil level in the site glass looks to be overfilled, or it could just be the way the picture turned out.