Belt-driven Bench Grinder???

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So I have a motor I am looking for a use for and have some questions.Motor Specs:Baldor - 2 HP115/220 VAC1725 RPM1.125" diameter shaftI was thinking of maybe building a belt-driven bench grinder (my factory-built one is just about dead). Is ths a good idea, or does something like this not work as well as a factory-built unit? I know I would need to offset the pulley sizes to achieve a faster RPM on the grinder, but that should be easy enough to do.So, has anyone done this before? Are there pictures / specs you could share? Or any other suggestions for the motor?Thanks.Weekend MigBackyard MechanicWelder: DECASTAR 150E, Wire Feed w/ Gas Potential (not currently using gas)
Reply:Most grinders spin at 3450 rpm. I guess you could make or have made a shaft that would be threaded on the end and pass it though 2 pillow block bearing  but by the time you made suitable tool rest and the required sheilding a new grinder would be cheaper.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:Depending on the wheel size you're looking to end up with 1725 might be nice actually.
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitmanDepending on the wheel size you're looking to end up with 1725 might be nice actually.
Reply:I did  something like that a few years ago and worked fine ,the belt was on two pulleys of different sizes and one of them had a ball bearing in it that kept getting destroyed.you might be able to use this item I found on Ebay:http://cgi.ebay.ca/Bench-Grinder-Arb...1%7C240%3A1318
Reply:Drive motor, pillow blocks and a jack shaft. What you're talking about used to be very common as long as bench space wasn't an issue. All the old farm barn shops used to have just what you're talking about. The more sleek motor designs have made the all-in-one more practicle is all.http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/pi...ckbearing.html
Reply:Originally Posted by Sandy...What you're talking about used to be very common as long as bench space wasn't an issue. All the old farm barn shops used to have just what you're talking about....
Reply:Here, Google found one (hundred thousand) of 'em:    Attachment 25684Photo from: http://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/936892441.htmlBetter have quick hand - you'll probably have to give the wheel a spin, or the belt a tug, to start it! Last edited by denrep; 10-19-2010 at 11:37 PM.
Reply:My dad just gave away one just like that to a friend of his.  It was in better shape.  He had a larger grinder he intherited.  It was powered by a 3 phase 20 hp motor and carried grinding stones that were at least 12 inches across by 3 inches wide.  The problem? No 3 phase.  It ended up in the scrap yard.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Some were a commercial built casting, that mounted two wheels; to which the DIYer would add his own motor.I wonder if you could still buy one?Most of ‘em used to rattle, because the plain bearings were worn out and loose in no time.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldtimerGood point. The larger the wheel, the lower the rpm. Has to do with surface feet per minute and centrifugal force and complicated stuff like that.I know a guy that was standing in front of a 12" grinder and turned it on and one wheel exploded. It destroyed his face. I started standing to the side when I turn on a bench grinder and wait until it's up to speed before moving in front of the wheel.
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepHere, Google found one (hundred thousand) of 'em:    Attachment 25684Photo from: http://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/936892441.htmlBetter have quick hand - you'll probably have to give the wheel a spin, or the belt a tug, to start it!
Reply:Thanks so much for all the helpful informaiton and links. Looks like I've got a few differnet options to explore before I move ahead on this. I imagine I may have some more specific questions if I decide to go ahead with this, but we'll see where the "shop budget" ends up. This would be more of a "nice-to-have" than a necesity at this time.Thanks again.Weekend MigBackyard MechanicWelder: DECASTAR 150E, Wire Feed w/ Gas Potential (not currently using gas)
Reply:One more option, stub shaft: Attached ImagesA butterfly without wings, is just an ugly bug
Reply:Originally Posted by Magnetic MechanicOne more option, stub shaft:
Reply:Just keep your motor speed slow.  We had one on the farm, would grind all day long with it, sharpening a 12' sickle bar for a mower or the sickle on the combine.  I think the motor turned at 1750 with 1:1 pullies.We got our stones from the blacksmith in town, charged us a heap less than what a new 8 inch stone would cost.  About once a year, we would true up the face.  Had a small 6" smooth stone on the other end of the big stone.  Biggest problem was the vibration from the motor & belt.  It all got transferred into the stones.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Considering the quality and cost of one piece bench grinders today (I'm not talking about the low buck chinese models available everywhere) I don't know that you could rig up a seperate motor and arbor rig any cheaper than you could just buy a bench grinder that takes up a lot less space.Baldor and Milwaukee are very good. Those are the only ones I have experience with except B&D which were better but B&D only builds cheap tools now.
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepHere, Google found one (hundred thousand) of 'em:    Attachment 25684Photo from: http://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/936892441.htmlBetter have quick hand - you'll probably have to give the wheel a spin, or the belt a tug, to start it!