|
|
Ok so I posted this morning about my power/breaker problem and I can't thank enough for the help electrician is coming in the AM, now in the meantime I'm still able to experiment some and do not like my results, for someone only 2 weeks into school with NO welding experience my beads have been too notch I think, not quite using the majority(about 85% is what my instructor appears to use and ask of us) but they are smooth and consistent with many "Pop-ups"...here are the settings and material I'm using at home: Now I'm confused about the arc/hot start option, I tend to have more trouble not sticking to start the weld that anything else going I'm $$$, but I don't know if this is a logical thing and I don't know what setting between one and 10 to put it on please please explain both of them in human terms, I don't know if it relates to the machine and your welder or if it's a personal preference type of thing...and as I mentioned my other post I'm thinking that my settings yesterday or this morning may have helped cause the shortage even though it is a 15 if you want but tonight it has not gone off also tonight I got different rods as the ones from yesterday where 1/8 and 12 which are both bigger than at school, if someone could also explain the difference and why you use one of the other/win, as always thanks again you guys rule. ~ Marshall
Reply:Those rods you bought are for AC.I'd go buy a 10lb can of 3/32" Excalibur 7018.They will run nicer on your machine.My 2 cents.Just a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:Just found out, my instructor texted me - lol ok how bout an explanation of other stuff pleaseSorry the, helped and the – I was saying that I sent him a picture of the rods to and he told me the same thing LOL that's where I get the name Dallas newb!Last edited by Dallasnewb; 12-20-2014 at 09:54 PM.
Reply:I have no clue what you just tried to say.70 amps DC with 3/32" 7018 is on the low side. Typically I'd try to be up closer to 95 amps with some one new to stick. While 70 amps is doable, chances of sticking a rod is a lot higher.Tripping a 15 amp breaker at 70 amps wouldn't surprise me, especially if you were using an extension cord of light weight. I've tripped 20 amp breakers at 95 amps, even with a 12 ga cord when every thing added up against me ( 100' cord, non dedicated circuit and so on). Usually I can easily weld at 95 amps on a 20 amp circuit, but I've had it happen..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWI have no clue what you just tried to say..
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopThose rods you bought are for AC.I'd go buy a 10lb can of 3/32" Excalibur 7018.They will run nicer on your machine.My 2 cents.
Reply:Sorry I'm not retarded I swear, I added a "," and "-" – above and explained what look like pure lunacy even without using the wrong rods LOL thanks guys
Reply:When all else fails, burn more rod.Good luck.Just a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:Set your machine by what the bead looks like and not by what the machine says. The indicator is just to get you in the ball park. I doubt you can adjust volts but try about 90 amps on the setting and adjust from there. Pictures would help. Hot start gives you a little more amps to help strike the arc. The rods you have should be OK.
Reply:The owners manual sucks as usual. I think this is a universal truth. But hot start is the icon under the #1 and arc force is under the letter "v" lower right. No explanation of the settings. I would guess the hot start is a percentage of total available welding amps. (This is common on many machines) Thus, if it's 200 amps max the machine can do. If you are set to weld at 100 amps, then a seeing of 6 assuming it is a 1-10 scale would give you 120 amps start current. A setting of 7.5 would give you 150 amps start current. Arc force is harder to explain but makes a more fluid puddle. (It shifts the volt/amp curve) Usually it's set lower for 7018 and higher for 6010.Tiger Sales: AHP Distributor www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P, Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma. For Sale: Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun. Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Ok I think I've got it figured out by guessing more than anything, can someone tell me besides the textbook def or the arch force(setting 1-10) and hot start(1-10) I'm running 83V w/ 7018 3/32 14s(hobart😕, couldn't find Lincoln in this spec anywhere) my beads look pretty good I think for 3 weeks from First weld in my life, I'm still not able to complete the rod down to the approx 2 inch my boss(instructor) said to shoot for, I'm left w about 4-ish no matter how slow I go...they look real consistent I think and the "swirls" are faint and uniform, I'm still sticking mayne half my attempts at the start. Can't seem to get my technique, is it just swiftness that keeps it from happening? I tap/rub/etc just not the best part of my game but I'd rather I be stronger at the finished bead than have trouble after 3 mos like some ppl around me😬 the second to last one is crooked I drew the line that way and didn't realize...any I put/criticism/whatever help is so much appreciated thank you ~ MarshallThe pic is upside down so the order is top to bottomLast edited by Dallasnewb; 12-29-2014 at 04:35 AM.
Reply:I've been looking at some of the welds made by these inverter machines, and I gotta say that they sure do look more refined, and buttery.It seems that we've gone beyond just being able to glue something together in a workmanlike manner. It's getting pretty sophisticated, what with all the variable controls, and settings. Pretty cool.I've taken a more than passing look at the Lincoln v275s. Promises a lot of power in a small package. Hot start (real plus for 7018 restrikes). Arc force (interesting feature). All in all, looks to be fun to play with. I seriously think a good used one might be in the cards one day.Then I start thinking about the job at hand, or most of the things lined up.I simply need a machine that WELDS This new stuff doesn't make you any better at welding, or any better at designing. I figure I got about $3700 tied up in the transformer welder, and the Ranger. Between the two, I have all the power I need, and portability, should the need arise. It just doesn't make sense to plunk down almost 3K for a little plug in machine.I also wonder if the newer technology isn't about the same as all the other new technology..............Great when it works, but an expensive paperweight/anchor when it doesn't. I don't have faith in the new stuff. I see a lot of the new stuff in for warranty work when I go to my LWS. I MEAN A LOT. I never see any transformer machines in for repair, with the exception of some of the fancier MIG machines. And it's not uncommon to run into obsolescence when looking for parts for the "new" stuff. Marketing 101I do like the TD52, and it's inverter technology with a lot of other high tech crap inside the box. But it doesn't see near the use and abuse that my welders see, so the jury is still out on that one. I have a sneaking suspicion that it will bite the dust long before my 20yr old Harris torch.So I guess I'll just go on carting around my old 2000# machines for the next 20yrsAnother way to look at it.............My little crackerbox was about $500 new. The balance of the money I would have put into an inverter machine, bought a lot of other stuff that is as, if not more, necessary as the welding machine itself. Just something to think about."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by Dallasnewb I'm still sticking mayne half my attempts at the start. Can't seem to get my technique, is it just swiftness that keeps it from happening? I tap/rub/etc just not the best part of my game but I'd rather I be stronger at the finished bead than have trouble after 3 mos like some ppl around me�� the second to last one is crooked I drew the line that way and didn't realize...any I put/criticism/whatever help is so much appreciated thank you ~ Marshall
Reply:Jeez Samm, for a minute there I thought you were going over to the dark side! Best regards, Bob
Reply:The open circuit voltage means nothing on Stick. However if it shows actual voltage when stick welding, you might see some changes in welding voltage when you adjust arc forceTiger Sales: AHP Distributor www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P, Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma. For Sale: Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun. Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by rafergusonIf you are sticking at start, you could try to turn up the arc force, which should increase the current when the arc length/voltage is low. I know that when I was starting out I used to stick at the start, and I recall improving that by turning up the overall current. Anyway, a couple of things that you can try to help you get started.Disclaimer: I am not a professional welder, and I generally use 7104, not 7018.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI've been looking at some of the welds made by these inverter machines, and I gotta say that they sure do look more refined, and buttery.It seems that we've gone beyond just being able to glue something together in a workmanlike manner. It's getting pretty sophisticated, what with all the variable controls, and settings. Pretty cool.I've taken a more than passing look at the Lincoln v275s. Promises a lot of power in a small package. Hot start (real plus for 7018 restrikes). Arc force (interesting feature). All in all, looks to be fun to play with. I seriously think a good used one might be in the cards one day.Then I start thinking about the job at hand, or most of the things lined up.I simply need a machine that WELDS This new stuff doesn't make you any better at welding, or any better at designing. I figure I got about $3700 tied up in the transformer welder, and the Ranger. Between the two, I have all the power I need, and portability, should the need arise. It just doesn't make sense to plunk down almost 3K for a little plug in machine.I also wonder if the newer technology isn't about the same as all the other new technology..............Great when it works, but an expensive paperweight/anchor when it doesn't. I don't have faith in the new stuff. I see a lot of the new stuff in for warranty work when I go to my LWS. I MEAN A LOT. I never see any transformer machines in for repair, with the exception of some of the fancier MIG machines. And it's not uncommon to run into obsolescence when looking for parts for the "new" stuff. Marketing 101I do like the TD52, and it's inverter technology with a lot of other high tech crap inside the box. But it doesn't see near the use and abuse that my welders see, so the jury is still out on that one. I have a sneaking suspicion that it will bite the dust long before my 20yr old Harris torch.So I guess I'll just go on carting around my old 2000# machines for the next 20yrsAnother way to look at it.............My little crackerbox was about $500 new. The balance of the money I would have put into an inverter machine, bought a lot of other stuff that is as, if not more, necessary as the welding machine itself. Just something to think about. |
|
发表于 2021-8-31 22:47:42