How does this vertical fillet look?

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3/32 Hobart 7018, around 75 amps DCEP - 3/16'' metalI feel like this is my first vertical weld that looks halfway decent, although obviously it's far from perfect.  I'm doing a slight side to side weave, watching the puddle and trying to move a speed that seems right.  It took about 2 and 1/3 rods to get through this 6.5" weld.  Does that seem like I'm not going fast enough?  I can't tell if the bead looks a little too wide in the wider places (for 3/32).  Any help is greatly appreciated.
Reply:More amps will help smooth it out.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPMore amps will help smooth it out.
Reply:Hard to judge from the picture, but I think that the bead is to wide for 3/32 rod.Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by HaberdasherIf I up the amps to 85-90 will I end up running a little faster?  Does it seem strange to take more than 2 rods to get through a weld of this size?
Reply:Thanks, are those pictures with 1/8 7018?  Is 3/32 the appropriate rod to be using on 3/16" metal?  At what point would you normally move up to 1/8 rod?
Reply:Yes those are both 1/8” 7018. For 3/16” thick material I would use 3/32” rod. I might switch to 1/8” rod for 1/4” thick material, depends what mood I'm in.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Typically you get about 6-8" from one rod, depending on how wide your bead is. Fillets take a bit more rod occasionally, but 2 1/3rd rods seems a bit heavy but the bead doesn't look overly wide.Remember you only need the fillet legs to be just over the thickness of the thinnest base material, so in this case 3/16" on each side of the corner. More really doesn't give you any more strength. It can be hard to do tiny beads though, so 1/4" to 5 1/16" wouldn't be unreasonable when starting out.Consistency needs a lot of work. the middle section is about the most consistent of the whole thing, but there isn't anything consistent enough over a reasonable sized are to call out one area to use as a guide. Looks like every inch or so you are changing your "stack" height or bead width, or how much you pause on one side or the other. For a 1st vertical weld it looks quite good. I don't see massive drips any where or any areas of major undercutting, and those are usually the two big issues guys have when they 1st start out doing vertical. Just keep practicing and the consistency will come. You are doing well..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:If you find that your motions become jerky the longer you weld as you progress upwards, try to do a "dry run" to see how far up you can go with your arm/body in the position you plan to weld.  If you overextend your comfortable reach it will get uglySometimes you can get better rod control (if you have the room) by holding the rod like a pencil instead of a pistol style grip.  Depends on how comfortable you are with any type of grip.3/32 runs steadier if you use your left hand on the rod for the first 1/3 of the rod to steady it.  It's a thin wobbly rod when full length"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Check your electrode angle during your dry run and pay attention to it obviously while welding. You want the rod pointing up a bit, about 10-15 degrees from horizontal. Keep that rod in the top of the puddle, pushing it in gradually at the same rate it deposits.Also, keep those 7018's dry; if you can get your hands on a small hotbox, that'd help ya out some more.I usually held the stinger with both hands, keeping my hand off the rod because it just got too hot for me. Prop your elbow on something else to keep steady.
Reply:I would be running hotter.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Looks like mine when I started out. *mumbles "in august"*
Reply:Just curious, what was your position and movement like? What angles?  Any weaving at all, or straight stringer style?-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:Vertical up welds won't go as far a horizontal position welds. 6 1/2" vertical up will need at least two 3/32" 7018. There is more than one way to do 7018 vert. up. 3/32" you can usually use about the same heat as flat and just do a continuous weave while going up making sure you fill the edges. No pausing, just keep the rod moving side to side slightly. Some guys lower their heat and pause for a second on each side leaving a series of alternating steps from side to side. Stainless is often done at lower heat but 7018 doesn't need to be. I worked with a guy once that ran 1/8" at about 100 amps and was using a 2.5 cheater lens. He had me try it. 2.5 was way too strong for one thing. It was like the arc was 1mm away from my eyes. I used my own helmet and it was quite difficult keeping an arc at such low amps.