Stainless BBQ question

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Making a Stainless box out of 1/8" 304 stainless. 6" high x 36"long x 18" wide. They are for firewood to cook meat over with long stainless squers. (Sorry I suck at spelling). I welded 1/8 angle around the base after welding. To help prevent twisting from heat. I am using a miller Max star 140 str and a finger control. My question is. Do I need full penetration to make these boxes last. I get great color when welding the ends together. Just but welded. But not full penetration. I am melting about 1/16 of the wall down when heating them. Should I be melting more?   Will this serfise? It is not really receiving alot of heat on corners. More in center where wood or coals sit.  Any suggestions?   I am sellin them and want the customer to not be able to come up with a complaint. Attached Images
Reply:I have no opinion on whether it needs to get full pen or not, but my immediate gut feeling is that 1/8" stainless is going to warp badly from the heat of wood burning directly on it........Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig  Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:1 .it will warp A LOT , 2. when you make the grill leave enough space for it to expand , I left about 1/4 on a similar grill and it wasn't enough3. make vent holes  on the sides !4. clamp a piece of aluminium angle to back the welds and turn up the heat, if you have to ask about penetration you need more  it's just like with size Last edited by Donoharm; 09-01-2013 at 06:36 AM.--------------------------------------------------------------www.becmotors.nlyup, I quit welding.. joined welder anonymous
Reply:Here are a few Pictures of the Grill.  I have made a few with the 1/8" and with the angle welded to the sides i had no warp, except for in center from heat.  What are the holes for? Air to heat the wood/coal?  Would something 1/2" high on bottom for wood to sit on help with heat.  Keep it directly off metal.  Also what is the aluminum backing the weld for? Attached Images
Reply:holes for air to come in and fuel the fire, otherwise you'll get lots of unburned wood/coal and have to constantly turn the wood around.aluminium backing helps minimizing sugaring on the back of the weld , because it's a bbq and argon purging will be difficult and a waste, if you back it with a pieces of aluminum or copper or something that won't melt and fuse to the stainless you can get a pretty decent weld root with the full penetration you asked about, now it looks a bit too late for that anyway.--------------------------------------------------------------www.becmotors.nlyup, I quit welding.. joined welder anonymous
Reply:Thank you. Never to late. I have a few more to make. Any way to improve is never to late for the Next Time.   I do have aluminum Angle from a fishing rod holder. Will have to clamp it and give it a try.
Reply:Looks good, nice work.Full pen is not necessary in my opinion. Look at other run of the mill grills. Most are all sheet that are bent and tacked.If your fitment is good and tight, fuse the inside corners and use some filler on the outside.I made an insert very similar for my grill. Its also made of 1/8" SS. I'll clean it up and take a picture of it today, its been in use for a few months and is rather dirty.
Reply:I do like the elevated fuel system, but these are designed more for skewers.  Was going to make a piece if expanded stainless for vegetables. But for most part you use fire wood or coal and skewers.  It is an "Armenian" Bbq.  I made myself one with some left over material. Will have to add the adjusting tray for my own.  My next idea is a rottiserie system for the skewers   I know they make them but I would like to make one that  is removable. Got to start scheming
Reply:Originally Posted by tackit ... Then there is the bad boy reflective heat BBQ.
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