drill press speeds

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my jet drill press speeds are 200 to 3630whats the best speeds for steel, stainless steeland aluminum Attached Images
Reply:slow, slower, slowin that order.200 sounds a little fast for stainless.  But I don't have any data here.  200 is good for any thing over 3/8's.  The size of the bit plays into it as well.Small bits can go faster.  Large S&D bits need low rpm to cut good.Last edited by lugweld; 01-29-2009 at 09:56 PM.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Hi, My name is Ian and I am a member of the slower is usually better club. Not only a member but I am the President.Okay, maybe a little quicker on aluminum, but not enough to call it fast.     ... and that goes for machine work as well as drilling.Miller Syncrowave 200
Reply:Hey EdThe best thing you can do is to do some research on Surface Feet Per Minute.You'll find that machinable steel(not stainless, I don't know about stainless) runs fairly slow depending on the dia. of the cutting tool.  Generally around 120sfpm.  Surface speed is a constant.  RPM is the variable.  Aluminum machines at pretty high speed.  Again, check out some good charts on SFPM for different materials.I think American Machine Tool, and some available PDF's from the Navy Repairmans Manual will give you the info you need.  Lot of disinformation out there.  Better to go to a good source."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:remember to make sure you use good lube if you are drilling stainless or get ready to re-sharpen every bit you use. as one poster said, slower can be better.....at least you will not burn your bitsGuy_48Welding is an art......Millermatic 252Lincoln SP175PlusLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:I was a little off too.  That's why ya can't trust all that flies around out here.This is a chart, and the calculations necessary for what you need.  A drill is the same as any other cutter except for the "dead" center.There's a reason for the different speeds available on your new drill press.I have some simplified calculations somewhere, and I'll look for them Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:BTW--- Although these are speeds for material being turned in a lathe, the principle is the same for a drill or mill.  The tool is turning instead of the workpiece turning"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:thanks for the chart farmer get my steaks tomorrow
Reply:Enjoy the steaks, gonna be a good game.  I hope"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I always run mine on the slowest pulley combination regardless of bit size or material type.  I don't have any idea what that speed is, butI wish it could go slower.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Various companies like Starrett and organizations like the National Tooling and Machining Association put out charts about feeds and speeds; Starrett has one online at:http://catalog.starrett.com/catalog/.../2900/2886.pdfI have a 'calculator' in the garage with a sliding section to align the correct variable with the correct scale, which works for nearly all materials, all tooling and all processed; sorry but I've forgotten who made it and am too lazy to go down and look right now.
Reply:I'll add one comment and it is about SS. If you are working 316SS, just use carbide bits or cutters and save yourself some grief.
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33I always run mine on the slowest pulley combination regardless of bit size or material type.  I don't have any idea what that speed is, butI wish it could go slower.
Reply:The slowest speed on my old 1940's made Kannady Otto drill press is 120, thats fine for thinner metals and small bits, but when I need to drill a hole in 1/4" or thicker and say 1/2" or bigger holes, I sure wish it would go slower, even then I use extra lube and a light touch, raising the bit slightly every so often to keep the heat down to a minimum!For 1/2" steel or thicker and a 1" bit, I sure wish I could dial it down to say 30 or even slower.It was fitted with a pneumatic driven ram to lower and lift the spindle head and has a coolant pump, a reservoir built into its base and a directional head spout for the coolant, but I need to rewire the pump, and I removed the pneumatics, I didn't like the way it worked.Last edited by Ken Dennis; 02-07-2009 at 12:22 PM.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:So far most of the information is not correct.If you really want to know look in Machinery's handbook at speeds and feeds.When drilling stainless there is a secret. Just use a cobalt bit. Matter of fact ONLY buy cobalt bits and your problems are over. Do not buy the titanium coated bits they are worthless.Here is the correct list.And by the way you should have a chart inside the lid of the belt pulleys at the top of the drill press.For steel and stainless.1/16 - 3/16-------2720 RPM.1/4 - 3/8-----------750 RPM.7/16 - 5/8---------600 RPM.11/16 - 1 inch----340 RPM.Counter sinks and reamers 100-200rpm. But there are slow speed reamers and high speed reamers.Many drill presses only go down to 200 rpm.ALUMINUM is a different story. The speed is almost the same up till 3/8 the reduce the speed by about 50%for the next two sizes. Use kerosene as lubricant or the fancy stuff,  aluminum and brass really want to grab.Last edited by Donald Branscom; 02-07-2009 at 09:34 PM.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:I wouldn't go so far as to call the titanium bits worthless, but cobalt is the ONLY way to go for drilling ferrous metals.I have found that the titanium nitride coated bits are better than the black oxide coated bits in ONE specific application.  In drilling deeper holes on the lathe (holes that are well more than 3-4 times deeper than the diameter of the bit), the black oxide coating has a higher friction, which makes the bit gum up faster with chips.  The TN bits are smoother in the flutes, so I can drill a little deeper before the gum up (especially in wood, where I don't dull my good cobalt set).I myself, prefer isopropyl alcohol as the coolant for aluminum.  It doesn't really need a "lubricant" per-se.  The coolant just keeps the aluminum from galling on the cutting surface.Carbide cutters are routinely used on aluminum, with air-jet cooling, at astronomical speeds.
Reply:What Donald Branscom said I try to keep it simple like me.   I was taught in machine shop 360 RPM for 1" weather you are turning or drilling.  Going from there, 1/2" can be drilled at 720......  This is for mild steel.This is using coolant of course.  IF  you see blue chips, you are going too fast or need coolant.  For aluminum, plain ol water works wonders for me.  It cools and lubes the bit enough.  If no lube or coolant is used, the aluminum sticks to the bit and makes a frikkin mess.Running an 1/8" bit at 120 would take for ever to drill a pilot hole.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.