PortaBand Blades for SS

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Recently ordered one of Milwaukee's new 6232-6N PortaBand Saws (10A motor, fully VS)Looking for comments regarding best blade (TPI) for cutting stainless steel tubing/pipe under 2" in diameter and less than 1/8" wall thickness.The Milwaukee site is sorely lacking, other than saying that SS should be cut at "lower speeds".  My experience with band saws and SS is that, regardless of speed, the material is "tough on blades".My original line of thinking is to try the 14/18 TPI variable pitch blades and see how they hold up.  Any comments/suggestions on a recommended blade for this application?Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:You should try to get 2 or 3 teeth on the material so a 14/18 would be a good choice.  SS is not hard material.  It is tough but easily cut as long as your tools are sharp.  I am sure you have learned it already.Most important is to discard a blade early when cutting SS rather than running dull, work hardening the cut, and creating an impossible cut.  Stick with the more common brands of blades that cost more but are better quality.
Reply:All I can come up with in my materials is that bi metal works with the broadest range of materialsThen it seems to boil down to regular, hook, and skip tooth.  The regular tooth seems favored for steel.  Variable tooth reduces vibration.  That's all I could come up with.  SorrySource Enco, WT catalogues"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Thanks Guys,Yea, I wouldn't think of trying anything but bi-metal blades on SS.Good point about the work hardening.  I only use cobalt drill bits for SS.I agree, SS isn't that "hard", but it's a bit-h on tools.  Been doing most of my cutting with an abrasive blade, but even that tends to work harden the pipe.While on the subject of SS.  Has anyone found a holesaw blade (for use in a notcher) that works best on SS.  I've had the best luck with Lenox and Milwaukee.  Neither last long though.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Here's one http://www.toolsforless.com/product/...Band_Saw_Blade recomended for SS (click on the 'Features' tab).  It's interesting though that all the bi-metal blades from 10tpi to 24tpi (including variable tpi) by Milwaukee claim to be for use with SS (at slower speeds) as well as MS.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I use a lot of the milwaukees mainly because they are readily available. I've about quit using their variable toothed blades because their transition isn't always that smooth. One bad move and you'll get this "kachunk/kachunk" thing going then it'll break at the splice. Their blades do seem a bit harder (more brittle) than other brands tho. That's good and bad. They seem to develope cracks between teeth long before they get dull. Most of my blades die from breakage rather than getting dull. The porta-bands styles are tough on blades for sure. And I am too. Not that I'm any kind of expert on cutting stainless, but keeping in tune with the "once you get a cut going, don't loose it" concept on stainless I'd think that is easier to do with a single tpi rather than variable. Nice thing about hand helds is that you can feel the cut. With stainless once you feel the bite, keep it there. It'll be hard on blades but will get the job done.
Reply:The key thing with stainless is the cutting speed.  You can cut stainless with old carbon steel cutting tools if the speed is slow enough.  Generally for drills or other High speed tool steels you would cut at a maximum speed of 100 SFPM ( surface feet per minute) on mild steel.  You could go 300 SFPM on aluminum and for stainless or tool steels you would be down at 25 to 50 SFPM.    I have had very good luck using a cutting lube called "anchorlube" on stainless.  It is waterbased and the consistency of toothpaste.